Welcome to the site...I've got the same bike, same winch, and probably the same plow (Cycle Country). Before you heed any of my advice, keep in mind that I'm an electrical engineer in the transportation industry and extremely anal about electrical installations (and I guess anything else I install).
First thing you need to do is remove the wire tap. Those things are junk and you have likely already damaged your ignition circuit wire. When they pierce the insulation, they also tend cut copper strands. In addition, you now have a weak electrical connection that is open to the elements. The best way to make this connection is with solder and heat shrink tubing. If you don't have the proper equipment or skills, a butt splice (preferrably, heat shrink) is the next best way to go. The wire you used is ok...I tapped into the ignition wire on the back side of the ignition switch...6 of one, half dozen of the other.
Your winch will not stop when raising the plow...if you hold the button, it will try to pull the plow through the fairlead rollers. This is something that you'll have to learn when using it. Listen to the sound of the winch...you'll know when you've pulled it too far. Make a note of how much of the blade you can see and stop it before you get to that point. I ran mine in too far once...the only damage was a slight kink in the cable.
Do yourself a favor. When installing the plow mounting plate under your quad, before you tighten everything up, make a note of where the oil drain plug is. Remove the plate and cut a hole out of the plate so you don't have to remove it when doing oil changes. If yours is a Cycle Country plow, you will only have to cut a notch out of the back edge of the plate. It'll save you a lot of hassle later.
Where did you mount your contactor for the winch? I found a pretty nifty spot for mine...if you're interested I'll snap some pictures.
Edit: As far as I've been able to find, HMF does not make a full system for our atv's...though they do make a slip-on. I don't know if you intend to put a full system on your machine, or if anybody else makes one, but if you do, you will also want to put an aftermarket FI controller on there also. HMF recommends their box with a slip-on, but I've personally never had to modify the A/F ratio when simply adding a slip-on. Keep in mind that my exhaust modification experience is with inline 4 cylinder engines that wind in excess of 12,000 rpm's
. Typically, the stock A/F ratio is a bit rich...adding a slip-on gets it close to where it should be. I don't know what other brands of FI controllers are out there for atv's, I haven't looked into doing this modification to my machine, but if Dynojet makes a Power Commander, I do have experience with them. To get the best performance out of them, you generally need to have it custom mapped (dyno-tuned)...which will usually cost $250-$300.
First thing you need to do is remove the wire tap. Those things are junk and you have likely already damaged your ignition circuit wire. When they pierce the insulation, they also tend cut copper strands. In addition, you now have a weak electrical connection that is open to the elements. The best way to make this connection is with solder and heat shrink tubing. If you don't have the proper equipment or skills, a butt splice (preferrably, heat shrink) is the next best way to go. The wire you used is ok...I tapped into the ignition wire on the back side of the ignition switch...6 of one, half dozen of the other.
Your winch will not stop when raising the plow...if you hold the button, it will try to pull the plow through the fairlead rollers. This is something that you'll have to learn when using it. Listen to the sound of the winch...you'll know when you've pulled it too far. Make a note of how much of the blade you can see and stop it before you get to that point. I ran mine in too far once...the only damage was a slight kink in the cable.
Do yourself a favor. When installing the plow mounting plate under your quad, before you tighten everything up, make a note of where the oil drain plug is. Remove the plate and cut a hole out of the plate so you don't have to remove it when doing oil changes. If yours is a Cycle Country plow, you will only have to cut a notch out of the back edge of the plate. It'll save you a lot of hassle later.
Where did you mount your contactor for the winch? I found a pretty nifty spot for mine...if you're interested I'll snap some pictures.
Edit: As far as I've been able to find, HMF does not make a full system for our atv's...though they do make a slip-on. I don't know if you intend to put a full system on your machine, or if anybody else makes one, but if you do, you will also want to put an aftermarket FI controller on there also. HMF recommends their box with a slip-on, but I've personally never had to modify the A/F ratio when simply adding a slip-on. Keep in mind that my exhaust modification experience is with inline 4 cylinder engines that wind in excess of 12,000 rpm's
. Typically, the stock A/F ratio is a bit rich...adding a slip-on gets it close to where it should be. I don't know what other brands of FI controllers are out there for atv's, I haven't looked into doing this modification to my machine, but if Dynojet makes a Power Commander, I do have experience with them. To get the best performance out of them, you generally need to have it custom mapped (dyno-tuned)...which will usually cost $250-$300.
