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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone , just bought a 2009 Rancher ES with power steering brand new , i think i may of over paid for it tho because i had nearly $8,000 in it counting the Warn 2500# winch and 48" snow plow

So anyway i put the winch on today and what i did was use a posi-tap and tapped into ING wire under the fuse box , it was the far back left hand wire , thats only hot when the key is on , works great just wanted to make sure that was ok?

also how does the winch know when to stop ? will it just try to pull the hook into its self and break something?

Another Q for ya...

do you have to get the box if you get the HMF pipe or can you just get the pipe ?

been riding quads all my life , grew up on a 125M 3 wheeler and dad had to bring home 5 gallons of gas every day all summer for years .
 

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1 more question for you guys,

my front decal says Rancher ES and Power Steering under it
my rear decal says Rancher ES and Fuel Injection under it

Should the quad be called an EPS ?
ES stands for electric shift. EPS stands for electric power steering. So you have a Rancher 420ES with EPS.

If yours is 4wd, when you are looking up parts, the correct name for yours will be Rancher TRX420FPE.

TRX = Fourtrax

F = Four wheel drive

P = Power steering

E = Electric shift

Honda can be confusing with all their different letters.
 

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So anyway i put the winch on today and what i did was use a posi-tap and tapped into ING wire under the fuse box , it was the far back left hand wire , thats only hot when the key is on , works great just wanted to make sure that was ok?
It would be best to hook it to a keyed accessory wire, but I'm not familiar with the wiring on the 420 Rancher and I don't have a wiring diagram. I know Honda offers an accessory plug as an option, so there's probably already a wire somewhere for it to plug into. If you can find it, that would probably be the best place to hook it.

also how does the winch know when to stop ? will it just try to pull the hook into its self and break something?
It should have an "in and "out" button. When you release the buttons, it will stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes mine is 4wd , the winch is a Warn RT25 is that a good one?

A good friend of mine works at the dealer and i went to buy a 2011 King Quad 500 but he talked me into the 2009 Rancher , they had like 15 quads and only 1 of them was a 2010 all were 2009's

Thanks for the Info on the lettering any help with my first post?

here are some photos i took yesterday when i brought it home , i put the winch on today so no pics of that yet








 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So anyway i put the winch on today and what i did was use a posi-tap and tapped into ING wire under the fuse box , it was the far back left hand wire , thats only hot when the key is on , works great just wanted to make sure that was ok?
It would be best to hook it to a keyed accessory wire, but I'm not familiar with the wiring on the 420 Rancher and I don't have a wiring diagram. I know Honda offers an accessory plug as an option, so there's probably already a wire somewhere for it to plug into. If you can find it, that would probably be the best place to hook it.

also how does the winch know when to stop ? will it just try to pull the hook into its self and break something?
It should have an "in and "out" button. When you release the buttons, it will stop.
yeah i know to stop pushing in to make it stop but when im plowing snow with it i would like to know when its all the way up instead for breaking something
 

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So anyway i put the winch on today and what i did was use a posi-tap and tapped into ING wire under the fuse box , it was the far back left hand wire , thats only hot when the key is on , works great just wanted to make sure that was ok?
It would be best to hook it to a keyed accessory wire, but I'm not familiar with the wiring on the 420 Rancher and I don't have a wiring diagram. I know Honda offers an accessory plug as an option, so there's probably already a wire somewhere for it to plug into. If you can find it, that would probably be the best place to hook it.

also how does the winch know when to stop ? will it just try to pull the hook into its self and break something?
It should have an "in and "out" button. When you release the buttons, it will stop.
yeah i know to stop pushing in to make it stop but when im plowing snow with it i would like to know when its all the way up instead for breaking something
Oh, I misunderstood you. I've never used a snow plow, I never get much snow here, but I would say it would just keep pulling unless the plow has some kind of setup to cut it off at a certain point but I doubt it. I'm sure we have a lot of people on here that plows, so they will be able to tell you for sure.
 

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is a Warn RT25 is that a good one?
Yes, Warn is a great winch. BTW, I really like the white plastic, looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah i wanted the strait axle rear end for trail riding i didnt like the IRS.

as for the white THANKS! i learned my lesson on my sons DS90X

DS90X - Diesel Bombers

Black is horrible for showing scuffs ect... so i figured white would be best ...verdict is still out!

do you guys use WD40 to clean your plastics? everyone around here does
 

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Welcome to the site...I've got the same bike, same winch, and probably the same plow (Cycle Country). Before you heed any of my advice, keep in mind that I'm an electrical engineer in the transportation industry and extremely anal about electrical installations (and I guess anything else I install).

First thing you need to do is remove the wire tap. Those things are junk and you have likely already damaged your ignition circuit wire. When they pierce the insulation, they also tend cut copper strands. In addition, you now have a weak electrical connection that is open to the elements. The best way to make this connection is with solder and heat shrink tubing. If you don't have the proper equipment or skills, a butt splice (preferrably, heat shrink) is the next best way to go. The wire you used is ok...I tapped into the ignition wire on the back side of the ignition switch...6 of one, half dozen of the other.

Your winch will not stop when raising the plow...if you hold the button, it will try to pull the plow through the fairlead rollers. This is something that you'll have to learn when using it. Listen to the sound of the winch...you'll know when you've pulled it too far. Make a note of how much of the blade you can see and stop it before you get to that point. I ran mine in too far once...the only damage was a slight kink in the cable.

Do yourself a favor. When installing the plow mounting plate under your quad, before you tighten everything up, make a note of where the oil drain plug is. Remove the plate and cut a hole out of the plate so you don't have to remove it when doing oil changes. If yours is a Cycle Country plow, you will only have to cut a notch out of the back edge of the plate. It'll save you a lot of hassle later.

Where did you mount your contactor for the winch? I found a pretty nifty spot for mine...if you're interested I'll snap some pictures.

Edit: As far as I've been able to find, HMF does not make a full system for our atv's...though they do make a slip-on. I don't know if you intend to put a full system on your machine, or if anybody else makes one, but if you do, you will also want to put an aftermarket FI controller on there also. HMF recommends their box with a slip-on, but I've personally never had to modify the A/F ratio when simply adding a slip-on. Keep in mind that my exhaust modification experience is with inline 4 cylinder engines that wind in excess of 12,000 rpm's :D. Typically, the stock A/F ratio is a bit rich...adding a slip-on gets it close to where it should be. I don't know what other brands of FI controllers are out there for atv's, I haven't looked into doing this modification to my machine, but if Dynojet makes a Power Commander, I do have experience with them. To get the best performance out of them, you generally need to have it custom mapped (dyno-tuned)...which will usually cost $250-$300.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As for the wire tap i didnt use the crappy wire tap things they sent with the kit , i always use posi-taps , they do not damage the wire or insulation , ive used them on $50,000 trucks main injection pump control wires , never had an issue

Posi-Lock(TM) - The Best Connectors You'll Ever Use!

thanks for the other tips
 

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Pretty cool...looks like the pierce the center rather than split the sides. Thanks for the link. Personally, I still wouldn't use them (I like to solder everything), but they look like they would work well in a dry location.
 

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I really like the white....good job.

Just a hint.....before you put the plow on, spend a little cash and install the hi-lifter front springs.

The OEM springs are really soft. When you raise the plow the front end will droop about 2-3 inches.
Really good investment when using a plow.
I accually bought another set of shocks and switch them back for summer trail riding.
 

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Welcome to the forums! Whats wrong with IRS i have an 07 700 Grizzly and love the IRS best ride IMO SMOOOOOTH and FAST.
 

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new to the forums, an hate to be critical right off , but ,dieselminded, i used those taps on my fleet a lot , and they are great , and rarely break stands , but , they are far from waterproof , just something to consider . i now use heat shrink self-soldering butt spices with a waterproof resin that oozes out when heated, and they make step-down sizes too , we get them from imperial. they have a solder ring in them that melts with use of heat guns and the resin seals them off from moisture.
 
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