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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last weekend I installed a Warn XT15 on my new 2016 Rancher. The XT15 is a 1,500 lb winch with 40' of synthetic rope, and a roller fairlead in lieu of a Hawse fairlead. The rollers are aluminum.

I'll attach a pic before I get to my question(s):



So, I made a small unobtrusive recovery point out of angle iron and 3/8" cold roll round stock. I drilled two holes in the angle iron and mounted it to the top of (vertical) fairlead. I fully understand that these rollers should roll. I tightened it up extremely tight so the vertical rollers no longer roll. Made a test pull anchored to a tree with a snatch block and the brakes locked up and it performed flawlessly.

So, the question is, how is having vertical fairlead rollers that don't roll any different than a Hawse fairlead? Am I in danger of damaging the synthetic rope?

The successor to the XT15 is the XT17 which has a Hawse fairlead. The winches are virtually identical.

Please enlighten me one way or another, as currently don't foresee any issues at all. Thank you!
 

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My only concerns would be if the rope got hot or if the now 'fixed' roller got significant damage that it would fray or rub through the rope. Rolling would be better but fixed is fine.
It's just acting like a hawse now rather that a roller. Keep your eye on the condition of those fixed rollers and check your rope every now and then, should be perfectly fine.
 
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Last weekend I installed a Warn XT15 on my new 2016 Rancher. The XT15 is a 1,500 lb winch with 40' of synthetic rope, and a roller fairlead in lieu of a Hawse fairlead. The rollers are aluminum.

I'll attach a pic before I get to my question(s):



So, I made a small unobtrusive recovery point out of angle iron and 3/8" cold roll round stock. I drilled two holes in the angle iron and mounted it to the top of (vertical) fairlead. I fully understand that these rollers should roll. I tightened it up extremely tight so the vertical rollers no longer roll. Made a test pull anchored to a tree with a snatch block and the brakes locked up and it performed flawlessly.

So, the question is, how is having vertical fairlead rollers that don't roll any different than a Hawse fairlead? Am I in danger of damaging the synthetic rope?

The successor to the XT15 is the XT17 which has a Hawse fairlead. The winches are virtually identical.

Please enlighten me one way or another, as currently don't foresee any issues at all. Thank you!
Looks fantastic. I have considered putting a winch on my 2016 Rancher 4x4, but I have yet to get stuck in 4x4...I supposed the first time I do I'll wish I had one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My only concerns would be if the rope got hot or if the now 'fixed' roller got significant damage that it would fray or rub through the rope. Rolling would be better but fixed is fine.
It's just acting like a hawse now rather that a roller. Keep your eye on the condition of those fixed rollers and check your rope every now and then, should be perfectly fine.

Thank you Sam, those were my thoughts exactly. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something.

I can still make the rollers roll, by using a longer 14mm bolt and double nutting it if I have to.
 

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My only concerns would be if the rope got hot or if the now 'fixed' roller got significant damage that it would fray or rub through the rope. Rolling would be better but fixed is fine.
It's just acting like a hawse now rather that a roller. Keep your eye on the condition of those fixed rollers and check your rope every now and then, should be perfectly fine.

Thank you Sam, those were my thoughts exactly. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something.

I can still make the rollers roll, by using a longer 14mm bolt and double nutting it if I have to.
Yeah it should be great as it is, I use a roller but only because it was cheaper than a hawse haha
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Last weekend I installed a Warn XT15 on my new 2016 Rancher. The XT15 is a 1,500 lb winch with 40' of synthetic rope, and a roller fairlead in lieu of a Hawse fairlead. The rollers are aluminum.

I'll attach a pic before I get to my question(s):



So, I made a small unobtrusive recovery point out of angle iron and 3/8" cold roll round stock. I drilled two holes in the angle iron and mounted it to the top of (vertical) fairlead. I fully understand that these rollers should roll. I tightened it up extremely tight so the vertical rollers no longer roll. Made a test pull anchored to a tree with a snatch block and the brakes locked up and it performed flawlessly.

So, the question is, how is having vertical fairlead rollers that don't roll any different than a Hawse fairlead? Am I in danger of damaging the synthetic rope?

The successor to the XT15 is the XT17 which has a Hawse fairlead. The winches are virtually identical.

Please enlighten me one way or another, as currently don't foresee any issues at all. Thank you!
Looks fantastic. I have considered putting a winch on my 2016 Rancher 4x4, but I have yet to get stuck in 4x4...I supposed the first time I do I'll wish I had one.
I'm squarely in the "it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it" camp.

:grin
 
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OK< here is MY 2 cents, NOT having a roller able to ROLL, will cause extra stress on that roller, its a cheap small bolt that holds that roller in place, so, your NOT placing a FULL load on them two small bolts, over it again rolling?

NEXT< NOW That the roller is FIXED , it will not roll and the line will want to CUT into that roller(way more if you are using wire rope than syn)
which in return will cut and damage the roller, can even cut it in HALF(I have several; that I worn out with them rolling that cut into them?)
and a damaged burred up roller can thus damage the line> causing a possible SNAP to things under a LOAD

NOW< MOST Hausee fairleads are made of SOFTER metals like aluminum, and they WEAR glkide better due to the material they are made of, BUT again, over time they too can be damaged due to being FIXED< and having the friction apl;lied to it

BUT< the fairlead hausse is NOT a Hollow TUBE, thus when its bolted down, it is bolted down STRONGER, less likely to snap bolts off that hold the rollers on, like when there set fixed to NOT turn!

NOW< since this is on the HIGH/top roller, and most times winching isn't putting a lot of stress on the top roller, ad MOST folks I gather run line out and its LOWER than the top roller when pulling on things, its NOT a huge deal

BUT??
its NOT going to do you any great good being fixed to NOT turn, your defeating the design of it, making it be fixed?


if your using this mounting spot with a snatch block, your adding twice the stress to that point as well??


FOOD for thought?~~
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK< here is MY 2 cents, NOT having a roller able to ROLL, will cause extra stress on that roller, its a cheap small bolt that holds that roller in place, so, your NOT placing a FULL load on them two small bolts, over it again rolling?

NEXT< NOW That the roller is FIXED , it will not roll and the line will want to CUT into that roller(way more if you are using wire rope than syn)
which in return will cut and damage the roller, can even cut it in HALF(I have several; that I worn out with them rolling that cut into them?)
and a damaged burred up roller can thus damage the line> causing a possible SNAP to things under a LOAD

NOW< MOST Hausee fairleads are made of SOFTER metals like aluminum, and they WEAR glkide better due to the material they are made of, BUT again, over time they too can be damaged due to being FIXED< and having the friction apl;lied to it

BUT< the fairlead hausse is NOT a Hollow TUBE, thus when its bolted down, it is bolted down STRONGER, less likely to snap bolts off that hold the rollers on, like when there set fixed to NOT turn!

NOW< since this is on the HIGH/top roller, and most times winching isn't putting a lot of stress on the top roller, ad MOST folks I gather run line out and its LOWER than the top roller when pulling on things, its NOT a huge deal

BUT??
its NOT going to do you any great good being fixed to NOT turn, your defeating the design of it, making it be fixed?


if your using this mounting spot with a snatch block, your adding twice the stress to that point as well??


FOOD for thought?~~
Thank you for making me think.

I'm going to get some longer 14mm bolts and two more nuts. I'll utilize a jam nut on either side to make the roller functional again while still retaining the solid top mount to the winch frame.
 

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OK< here is MY 2 cents, NOT having a roller able to ROLL, will cause extra stress on that roller, its a cheap small bolt that holds that roller in place, so, your NOT placing a FULL load on them two small bolts, over it again rolling?

NEXT< NOW That the roller is FIXED , it will not roll and the line will want to CUT into that roller(way more if you are using wire rope than syn)
which in return will cut and damage the roller, can even cut it in HALF(I have several; that I worn out with them rolling that cut into them?)
and a damaged burred up roller can thus damage the line> causing a possible SNAP to things under a LOAD

NOW< MOST Hausee fairleads are made of SOFTER metals like aluminum, and they WEAR glkide better due to the material they are made of, BUT again, over time they too can be damaged due to being FIXED< and having the friction apl;lied to it

BUT< the fairlead hausse is NOT a Hollow TUBE, thus when its bolted down, it is bolted down STRONGER, less likely to snap bolts off that hold the rollers on, like when there set fixed to NOT turn!

NOW< since this is on the HIGH/top roller, and most times winching isn't putting a lot of stress on the top roller, ad MOST folks I gather run line out and its LOWER than the top roller when pulling on things, its NOT a huge deal

BUT??
its NOT going to do you any great good being fixed to NOT turn, your defeating the design of it, making it be fixed?


if your using this mounting spot with a snatch block, your adding twice the stress to that point as well??


FOOD for thought?~~
Thank you for making me think.

I'm going to get some longer 14mm bolts and two more nuts. I'll utilize a jam nut on either side to make the roller functional again while still retaining the solid top mount to the winch frame.
Your rope will be fine with or without rollers rolling. Let's face it, if a roller wore that badly that you noticed it, you'd replace it anyway. The biggest killer for synthetic ropes is leaving them full of mud/grit and wrapping them around objects as an anchor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK< here is MY 2 cents, NOT having a roller able to ROLL, will cause extra stress on that roller, its a cheap small bolt that holds that roller in place, so, your NOT placing a FULL load on them two small bolts, over it again rolling?

NEXT< NOW That the roller is FIXED , it will not roll and the line will want to CUT into that roller(way more if you are using wire rope than syn)
which in return will cut and damage the roller, can even cut it in HALF(I have several; that I worn out with them rolling that cut into them?)
and a damaged burred up roller can thus damage the line> causing a possible SNAP to things under a LOAD

NOW< MOST Hausee fairleads are made of SOFTER metals like aluminum, and they WEAR glkide better due to the material they are made of, BUT again, over time they too can be damaged due to being FIXED< and having the friction apl;lied to it

BUT< the fairlead hausse is NOT a Hollow TUBE, thus when its bolted down, it is bolted down STRONGER, less likely to snap bolts off that hold the rollers on, like when there set fixed to NOT turn!

NOW< since this is on the HIGH/top roller, and most times winching isn't putting a lot of stress on the top roller, ad MOST folks I gather run line out and its LOWER than the top roller when pulling on things, its NOT a huge deal

BUT??
its NOT going to do you any great good being fixed to NOT turn, your defeating the design of it, making it be fixed?


if your using this mounting spot with a snatch block, your adding twice the stress to that point as well??


FOOD for thought?~~
Thank you for making me think.

I'm going to get some longer 14mm bolts and two more nuts. I'll utilize a jam nut on either side to make the roller functional again while still retaining the solid top mount to the winch frame.
Your rope will be fine with or without rollers rolling. Let's face it, if a roller wore that badly that you noticed it, you'd replace it anyway. The biggest killer for synthetic ropes is leaving them full of mud/grit and wrapping them around objects as an anchor.
That's was sort of my original thinking.

Another consideration is that my recovery point is not bolted to the actual vertical fairlead bolt, but to the fairlead mount above it (3/16" plate). I just happen to be using the existing bolt holes and bolts.

UV rays are also detrimental to synthetic rope as well I've read. We'll see how it all goes. I don't use a winch a lot, but it's a great tool when you need it.
 

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If your in any doubt use 10.2 tensile bolts over the usual 8.8 grade. 3/16 plate is plenty strong enough for the intended use, you could use a snatch block permanently and I couldn't see any issues arising.
It's very easy to over engineer mounts & towpoints. Mine is 1/4 plate attached to the frame with two 1/2 bolts and two 3/8 'U' bolts, the frame will bend before it breaks, I used what I had available to me at the time though.
 
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Without a functioning roller you will just add more stress to the cable and the winch. Winches are normally rated on the first wrap of the cable and decrease as the diameter increases, a longer bolt will maximize your pull while minimizing the wear or your rope, worth a couple bucks to keep' I would rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Without a functioning roller you will just add more stress to the cable and the winch. Winches are normally rated on the first wrap of the cable and decrease as the diameter increases, a longer bolt will maximize your pull while minimizing the wear or your rope, worth a couple bucks to keep' I would rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The added stress would be minimal, synthetic rope, new rollers... The winch is more than capable of pulling the ATV on a single line so that small amount of stress is neither here nor there.
 
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Without a functioning roller you will just add more stress to the cable and the winch. Winches are normally rated on the first wrap of the cable and decrease as the diameter increases, a longer bolt will maximize your pull while minimizing the wear or your rope, worth a couple bucks to keep' I would rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The added stress would be minimal, synthetic rope, new rollers... The winch is more than capable of pulling the ATV on a single line so that small amount of stress is neither here nor there.
NOT to be a stick in the mud, but a 1500 lb winch and a 600+ lb atv stuck GOOD< that winch will struggle, I had a 1500 lb one on a smaller model atv and it struggled many time sand ran out of pulling power, a few times as well!

the snatch block will help here for sure

BUT when your taking about a FIXED roller(as he had it), and then compound the stress and friction applied to it, you are stressing the line a bunch, and as that line wears into the roller now that is NOT free rolling, it will develop burr's and then burr's will BREAK his line under a load!

them rollers on the fairlead are NOT Aluminum, as in a fix hawse would be, and the aluminum hawse is slicker than them rollers, there plated and that plating will come off from friction/wear!

its NOT a huge amount of difference I will say that, but it all will add up over time,
its best to have the roller free moving, to HELP that winch work as best it can, as again, a GOOD stuck atv in mud or down a hill upside down, its going to struggle as is, add in extra friction on a fairlead, and your just not helping things at all!(IF you were pulling so line is dragging across the TOP fixed roller LOL)

most of this really comes down to HOW often that winch will be used or NOT too,
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Without a functioning roller you will just add more stress to the cable and the winch. Winches are normally rated on the first wrap of the cable and decrease as the diameter increases, a longer bolt will maximize your pull while minimizing the wear or your rope, worth a couple bucks to keep' I would rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The added stress would be minimal, synthetic rope, new rollers... The winch is more than capable of pulling the ATV on a single line so that small amount of stress is neither here nor there.
NOT to be a stick in the mud, but a 1500 lb winch and a 600+ lb atv stuck GOOD< that winch will struggle, I had a 1500 lb one on a smaller model atv and it struggled many time sand ran out of pulling power, a few times as well!

the snatch block will help here for sure

BUT when your taking about a FIXED roller(as he had it), and then compound the stress and friction applied to it, you are stressing the line a bunch, and as that line wears into the roller now that is NOT free rolling, it will develop burr's and then burr's will BREAK his line under a load!

them rollers on the fairlead are NOT Aluminum, as in a fix hawse would be, and the aluminum hawse is slicker than them rollers, there plated and that plating will come off from friction/wear!

its NOT a huge amount of difference I will say that, but it all will add up over time,
its best to have the roller free moving, to HELP that winch work as best it can, as again, a GOOD stuck atv in mud or down a hill upside down, its going to struggle as is, add in extra friction on a fairlead, and your just not helping things at all!(IF you were pulling so line is dragging across the TOP fixed roller LOL)

most of this really comes down to HOW often that winch will be used or NOT too,
The rollers are in fact aluminum. I use a snatch block every time I've needed to winch. This should not be a concern at all.

It all boils down to 2 longer bolts, 2 additional nuts, and about 5 minutes. And no, the winch won't be used often, hopefully.
 
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on my shrimp boat there is synthetic rope ( Spectrum ) on the winches that lift the frames out the water , sometimes there is massive amounts of weight on those ropes and there are hawse fairleads on those winches , they have been on there 10 years , same rope , same fairlead and no problems -------- if the rope hits in the same place all the time it will cut a groove in the fairlead --------- now I will say there is some very poor quality synthetic rope out there , like that replacement winch rope from Harbor Freight
 

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Last weekend I installed a Warn XT15 on my new 2016 Rancher. The XT15 is a 1,500 lb winch with 40' of synthetic rope, and a roller fairlead in lieu of a Hawse fairlead. The rollers are aluminum.

I'll attach a pic before I get to my question(s):



So, I made a small unobtrusive recovery point out of angle iron and 3/8" cold roll round stock. I drilled two holes in the angle iron and mounted it to the top of (vertical) fairlead. I fully understand that these rollers should roll. I tightened it up extremely tight so the vertical rollers no longer roll. Made a test pull anchored to a tree with a snatch block and the brakes locked up and it performed flawlessly.

So, the question is, how is having vertical fairlead rollers that don't roll any different than a Hawse fairlead? Am I in danger of damaging the synthetic rope?

The successor to the XT15 is the XT17 which has a Hawse fairlead. The winches are virtually identical.

Please enlighten me one way or another, as currently don't foresee any issues at all. Thank you!
Have you tried the winch? Curious, the Rancher 4wd or 2wd?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Last weekend I installed a Warn XT15 on my new 2016 Rancher. The XT15 is a 1,500 lb winch with 40' of synthetic rope, and a roller fairlead in lieu of a Hawse fairlead. The rollers are aluminum.

I'll attach a pic before I get to my question(s):



So, I made a small unobtrusive recovery point out of angle iron and 3/8" cold roll round stock. I drilled two holes in the angle iron and mounted it to the top of (vertical) fairlead. I fully understand that these rollers should roll. I tightened it up extremely tight so the vertical rollers no longer roll. Made a test pull anchored to a tree with a snatch block and the brakes locked up and it performed flawlessly.

So, the question is, how is having vertical fairlead rollers that don't roll any different than a Hawse fairlead? Am I in danger of damaging the synthetic rope?

The successor to the XT15 is the XT17 which has a Hawse fairlead. The winches are virtually identical.

Please enlighten me one way or another, as currently don't foresee any issues at all. Thank you!
Have you tried the winch? Curious, the Rancher 4wd or 2wd?
It's 2WD. Yes, after I installed the winch last weekend, I did a single line pull with the brakes locked, performed great. Same result with the snatch block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Winches are normally rated on the first wrap of the cable and decrease as the diameter increases, a longer bolt will maximize your pull
I'm fully aware of how winches work to their best potential, but explain to me how a longer bolt in a fairlead mount will maximize my pull please, especially as it pertains to a simple recovery point, whether I'm winching myself, or someone else is.
 

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Winches are normally rated on the first wrap of the cable and decrease as the diameter increases, a longer bolt will maximize your pull


I'm fully aware of how winches work to their best potential, but explain to me how a longer bolt in a fairlead mount will maximize my pull please, especially as it pertains to a simple recovery point, whether I'm winching myself, or someone else is.


Sorry I thought you stated that a longer bolt would allow the roller to be free. Any reduction in friction if you are on that roller will help, is all I'm saying.


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