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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay so I just put my Rancher back together this past weekend and I have it running and driving perfectly. But now my front brakes don't work. I have triple checked to make sure fluid isn't leaking from the lines and all the banjo bolts are tight and have copper washers. I have spent a total of 3 hours bleeding them constantly and have used about 20 ounces of brake fluid through the system. The brakes will not build any pressure at the handle until about 8 quick tugs on it. Slow pomping doesn't do any good to build pressure at all. When the brakes do pressurize after 8-10 pumps and have full pressure all the way through the handle, I crack the bleeder on either wheel and nothing but fluid comes out. There is no longer air and the fluid is shooting out. When the brakes are pressurized, one whee has enough braking force to lock up while the other has next to no brakes behind it.
I wrecked this bike last year and after I reassembled the brakes I bled them enough to wher they had full pressure after two quick tugs on the handle. Since draining that fluid out and trying to bleed them again they have gotten even worse.
What could be the cause of this?

Please no one hesitate to throw in ideas. I use this ATV at the local dirt track to move broken cars and need it fixed by Saturday
 

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Did you turn the adjusters out when you installed the drums?? They're not like car brakes.. Install the drum and turn the adjusters out till the shoes touch the drum....Then bleed from there....

Hope you get them going...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Will pull everything back apart tomorrow and check. My brakes haven't been right since reassembled one year ago so I hope that's it. I don't want to have to replace anymore parts lol. Thanks

Edit : there is one problem with that. I have spacers and one of the nuts holding the spacer to my front hub on the left side is stripped preventing me from accessing the adjuster. The brakes on that side have not been touched since before the brakes began acting up so should be good, but I will check anyway if I can get to the adjuster.

I have an extra hub on hand if I can just get the spacer off that hub and get the hearings and seals out without damaging them
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay I got everything adjusted correctly but it's still difficult to get them pressurized. Could it possibly be a problem in the way I'm bleeding them?

the method I am using is as follows
1. I pump lever til full pressure
2. I hold lever with one hand and wrap strap around with other
3. I open bleeder vavle and let fluid shoot out until lever goes limp
4. close bleeder valve
5. untie lever
and repeat

I am not sure if I am supposed to fully open bleeder valve or just crack it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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I would think that if the brakes worked before you took it a part and now they don't , you don't have all the air bleed out of it , it can be very hard to do ----this is the way I do it when it doesn't work out doing it the standard way , pinch off the left or right side brake hose where it comes out the tee that splits them , this way you are only dealing with one side at a time , pinch pliers work the best but a small vise grip and a piece of rubber or cardboard over the teeth to prevent damaging the hose will work , take a second pair of pinchers and pinch the hose right out side the master , pump against the pinch till you get a hard lever , if you don't get a hard lever then the master is bad or you don't have a good pinch , with the lever hard and holding it , release the pliers , open the bleeder valve but just a minimal amount , don't let it squirt , make it drip , re-clamp the hose before letting off the lever , do this a few times , then switch the pliers at the tee to the side you just bleed , and do the same procedure to that side
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Okay so I attempted to re adjust my shoes yesterday just incase. One side is adjusted to the point that the drum drags ever so slightly. The other side is a different story. Ever since last year (when my brakes worked perfectly) one of the nuts holding my spacer on has been stripped so I just can not get the spacer off to get to the adjuster hole. However, for that reason, that side has the exact same brake settings it had when my brakes were perfect last year...well after adjusting the one side and bleeding...again...Still have no pressure. I tried the method of one sided bleeding with a pair of channel locks (don't have vice grips) and the left side (one I adjusted) seems to build some amount of pressure. But when I switched sides, the other side wouldn't build pressure.

is it possible that the shoes in the other drum may need to be adjusted even though they have not been tampered with in over a year? and if so, how would I go about adjusting them since I can't get to the adjuster through the adjuster hole??
 

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I doubt I could pull off the pinch method with channel locks , get a pair of pinch pliers ------ I have fought trying to get a hard lever by bleeding for hours and could never get it by the standard bleeding method , pinched the hose and can do it in 5 minutes
 

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I'm guessing your drum brakes are similar to my 03 foreman, two adjusters on each side, top and bottom. Adjust until the wheel stops, then back off three notches. When bleeding, don't let your lever bottom out and open the bleeder slowly. Bleed from one side and then the other until you get a solid feel at the lever. Don't forget to keep the level up in your resevuar each time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
will post a pic when I get back home. I have some extra wheel studs on hand so I could just grind the stud out from inside the hub, but the problem is my impact isn't strong enough to remove my spindle nut on the front. lol. and I don't have a breaker bar soooo...
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
this is the stripped nut. These spacers are 2" each so using vise grips or anything of that sort won't work
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I also don't have a torch. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have narrowed it down to the adjusters in the other wheel (stripped nut side)... I took them out and was going to try to adjust it one notch at a time until I got some actual pressure...but they were both seized. I don't have a torch. what can I do to unsieze them?
 

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PB plaster and work it back and forth gently until it gives. Hold the base by the star part and be patient it will give eventually. Those adjusters are soft metal and can be ruined if you are not careful.
The rounded off nut, try to cut it with a chisel making your cut in the direction to turn it off. When you get the spacer off the drum is held by two small bolts, its going to be corroded on so bump it back and forth on the face with hammer and a piece of wood to protect the drum.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
after reassembling everything today (with the seized adjusters) my brakes built pressure after about 3 quick pulls on the lever so they'll do for now. After I leave the track tomorrow I will pick up some pb blaster and a chisel for that nut.

what do you mean by
When you get the spacer off the drum is held by two small bolts, its going to be corroded on so bump it back and forth on the face with hammer and a piece of wood to protect the drum.
What two little bolts are you talking about? I have not seen two little bolts
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I looked up the diagram. Only the 4x4 models have those bolts.
 

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there is a stripped nut removal tool , looks like a socket , instead of hex or spline it has flutes that dig into the nut only when pressure is applied to turn the nut off , they have saved me so many times , Sears sells them , have also seen them at other places , Erwin is one company that makes them

Here is a set of 10 for $25 , you can get a 5 pc set for $20
Sears.com
 
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