As a matter of fact there is... I see a lot of oil coolers jammed with mud, cottonwood seed, leaves & grass seed... all sorts of debris. They are easily forgotten during pressure washings and between riding sessions. They need to be kept clean and free of debris or they don't work. Since the motor is air-cooled, the motor oil shares a major role in carrying heat away. To put it more accurately, the motor is air/oil cooled. So keep an eye on those cooler fins and squirt through 'em with a water hose often.
Also make sure that the cooling fan kicks on when it is supposed to. You can test the oil temp-sensor using a multimeter and test the cooling fan by unplugging that sensor wire and momentarily grounding it to the motor cases. See the service manual for more info.
Also related to this cooling system topic is motor oil type. After a motor has completed the initial breakin period it's recommended that the oil be changed to a full synthetic, rated JASO MA/MA2 for wet clutches. Synthetics are designed for use in much wider operating temperature ranges. They are far superior to conventional oils in every category and in real-world usage. I like Rotella T6 the most in Hondas and many other motors. Its an extreme duty motor oil formulated for gasoline and diesel motors, it is JASO MA rated, contains ZDDP for flat tappet camshafts, is cheap by the gallon and is sold everywhere. Oil is a personal preference thing tho.... many folks harbor brand loyalties, so run whatever brand you prefer as long as it meets the necessary specs.
Final note: Change the oil and filter when it is needed, and as often as it is needed. The 100 hour oil change interval listed in Honda manuals is inappropriate in many usage cases. As soon as you see the motor oil turning dark (suspended carbon/combustion particles saturate the oil, particle carrying capacity is limited) get it outta there and replace it along with the filter.
Hope this general info helps!