[[email protected]]

I replaced the ignition switch on my 2003 Honda Rancher 350 ES and now my electronic display is acting up. I lost the key a few weeks ago hence the reason for changing the switch. Now the gear indicator displays jumbled nonsense and the speedometer isn't showing the speed. I hope one of the older members might have some insight on what I can check. Everything was fine until I changed the switch.

Joe

 

[fishfiles]

couple of things that come to mind : did you hook the wires up right to the switch the first time or maybe plug them in wrong then swopped them right ------ was the switch OEM or E-bay chinese junk , maybe it is not the same switch as your Rancher takes

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks

Thanks for the reply. I did buy this switch off of ebay but it appears to be well made. The ends of both plug were epoxied, not at all like some of the pictures of others I've seen on other forums. I don't think that the ignition switch assembly could be causing the problem, after all it's just wires. I'm more concerned about having disturbed some other connections which may be causing my problem. I in no way mean to dismiss your advice, it was well received, and I thank you for the advice.

My next question would be if I did disturb another wiring connector where should I look next?

 

[retro]

You'd better replace that china garbage with a genuine Honda ignition switch before you fry something much more expensive. You must be very wealthy to be able to afford to buy a switch twice, ehh?

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the reply.

Perhaps you could enlighten me on how a simple switch could fry other electrical circuits. After all the ignition switch assembly consists of a switch at one end 4 wires and a plug at the other end. It simply supplies 12v DC to the rest of the circuits. I'm not saying it's not impossible I just fail to see how that could happen.

My experience with electronics dates back to the late '60s to the early '70s. I was an electronics technician in the USMC Air Wing where I worked on communication and navigation equipment for attack and fighter aircraft. Of course back then everything the Marines had was vacuum tube technology, but we still diagnosed problems to the component level. But that's been a few years ago and now I'm 68 and arthritic and don't see all that well anymore so I can use all the help I can get.

I do appreciate the suggestions you guys have given me so far, but what I'm looking for is info like what wires go from one place to the other that could cause the gear indicator to be all jumbled and the speedometer to quit working. If I had a schematic I could trace these things down, but my machine came with no manuals so I don't know where else to look. In any case thanks for your help to this point

Joe

 

[retro]

The primary reason for that warning is because those switches are intentional chintzy garbage (for export ONLY), same as every other china knockoff dumped here. They are not designed and built to perform the job that they're marketed for. You were robbed basically... scammed by organized criminal liars and thieves (ebay corp pretends to be a random chinaman username in most of those sales), but you got what you deserved cause by now ya oughta know'd better.

Next reason is because the exporters only make one switch... they swap wires and plugs on them to make them appear that they might be unique... might fit on your bike, but with no regard for whether those connections are correct or not. Many don't even show continuity through them when they're loaded on the boat. I realize that you're new here... else you'd have read a gazillion of these kinds of threads already.

Unplug it before it burns something down.

 

[retro]

Now that I've chewed on ya a bit for buying china I'm ready to help ya.

You can find a copy of the factory service manual here:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VocUaF1K4_fDh_SVCaq3Rkc747M58ZQd

Each section in those manuals provide good diagnostic info and the wiring diagrams can be found near the back of them. First thing ya gotta do though, is install the correct Honda ignition switch. Even if you fiddle around and get that one working you're only gonna be insuring that you're gonna be fighting a fire real soon. Keep a smile on and let us know how it goes if you can.

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for all the help, Guys.

Well I bit the bullet and ordered an OEM fey switch assembly from a Honda dealer. Until it gets here I'll unplug it from the ATV so I don't burn the darn thing up. It'll take 3 days for the new switch to get here and it's going to rain here for a few days so I won't be riding untl the rain stops. I just hope that the new switch solves my problem. We'll see.

I want to thank you all for you efforts to set me in the right direction. You'll be hearing from me from time-to-time.

Joe

 

[retro]

Thats great! We need more folks like you to hang around and share their knowledge & experiences with us after their bike is fixed! We like to ogle pics too, as you'll soon realize if ya haven't already...

Hollar if ya have any questions, or just anxious to show off your Rancher in pics.

 

[[email protected]]

AN update. I finally found the key for the old ignition switch. It was in a jacket that I wore during the last cold spell. So I unplugged the new switch and plugged in the old one. I turned the switch to "ON" and sure enough the problem was still there. The speedo showed 8 mph standing still and the gear indicator was still messed up.

I guess I'll have to ride it like it is until I can figure out where the problem is. I'm thinking at this point the instrument display is fried so I guess I'll start looking for a good used display ( a new display is $280 + tax at the local Honda dealer). If anyone knows any other tricks to try please let me know.

Thanks

 

[[email protected]]

Another update.

OK, I finally talked to a fellow at Partzilla and explained the problem to him. He said it could be the CDI ($230.00) or the CCU (which is no longer available) but first he suggested that I disconnect the battery for 10 to 15 minutes and the reconnect it and see what happens. Lo and behold the display was back to normal. There is still a little garbage in the gear indicator but the speedo is back to 0 when the machine is not moving. I won't get to actually ride the atv until tomorrow but things are looking up.

I'll give an update after I take her for a ride and let y'all know how it went. Once again thanks for the input.

 

[retro]

Check the connector plug to the display for moisture or corrosion (under the front fender), then the gear position switch connector, then the speed sensor connector (right-rear clipped to the frame). The battery condition must be good (should measure 12.6 volts or higher) as well. Make sure the battery terminals and the negative cable motor & frame ground (next to the starter motor) are clean. You can also check the ECM connector (inboard from the speed sensor and gear position switch connectors)... but be careful with it. Don't drop it or bend any of the connector pins. Sometimes unplugging and plugging the connector back in will restore a bad connection. Make sure the key is off when disconnecting/connecting electrical plugs, to avoid possible voltage spike damage to components.

Diags are in the manual for the gear position switch and the speed sensor.

I'd personally begin with eyeballing the harness connectors (number 1 suspect in all electrical issues) and packing them with dielectric grease (weatherproofing them, preventive maintenance) when plugged back in, then check for continuity through the gear position switch in each gear as the manual explains. If I were a gambling man I'd bet a buck on the fix being the ECM connector needing some TLC and some dielectric grease.

Let us know how it goes...

 

[[email protected]]

A new update.

Well it's been a few days since I was here so this is what hsd transpired.

I got the new OEM switch in on Thursday and quickly installed it. When I turned the key the display was still a little bit messed up. I rode the atv around for a while and noticed that the speedo was registering the speed intermittently. The gear indicator would clear up and show the gear correctly then start messing up again. I think retro was spot on about checking all the plugs and connectors. I have a can of contact cleaner around here somewhere and I just got a big tube of dielectric grease. My plan is after the big storms this weekend I'm going to disconnect all the plugs and clean the contacts and add dielectric grease to each and see what that does.

At least I don't think I ruined anything with my miserly purchase and installation of the Chinese ignition switch. I won't be making that mistake again, thrust me.

I finally found some rear mud guards at Partzilla and put them on yesterday. The machine looks a lot better now. My next project is to diagnose a problem with the electric gear shift. I think my shift motor is getting week. Sometimes she'll shift and sometimes she won't. If I get stuck in a gear I found that I can push the machine backwards a few feet and then she'll shift just fine. If anyone has ant suggestions on the shift problem let me know.

So until next time, adios.

 

[retro]

I'm sure that you didn't hurt anything while testing that china switch.

Cleaned and dielectric greased harness connectors throughout will probably solve those problems for good. Thats been our number 1 suspect in all things electrical on Honda ATVs.

We can help ya with your poor ES shifting issues too. I'm gonna write up a comprehensive prep guide during the next two weeks. Until then you can still piece together whats already been written in scattered threads and fix that ES yourself for good! Its just an extended form of maintenance really.... We solve big problems in each step. The end result is an ES system that ya don't ever have to touch again and one that is very fast performing, quiet and most importantly, very reliable. Costs ya a cheap tub of synthetic grease and a few other common materials... and some of your time, only. Its fun work too!

Start here an' click through:
https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...oes-terribly-wrong-long-post.html#post1244546

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the info retro. I looked at some of the ES posts and got confused as all git-out. I'll probably wait until you get the concise version put together before I tackle the ES work. I've got several holster orders to fill which will keep me busy for a while. In the mean time I'll just walk or drive the car for my getting around on the ranch. Also got a bunch of clean up to do from today's storms. Broken limbs everywhere.

 

[retro]

Well, that might help to light a fire under my butt, knowing that you're waitin' in the weeds for it! I've been putting that guide off for quite some time... just been too busy lately. But others have asked for an all-in-one, so I'll take some time and get it done during the next two weeks.

I'm gonna have similar messes to clean up around my place after the rest of our glacier melts off. We had a doozy of a winter this time, the worse one in the last 8 years. Knocked our deer herd population back to the stone-age, some of the regulars I'm really gonna miss havin' around. :-(

 

[wmgeorge]

I was USAF Air Craft electrician back in the early 1960's B52's & KC135 at my last base anyway. Memory might of failed me a bit but I thought most of our stuff was transistors by then? Some of the old prop planes might have had some tube stuff.

 

[[email protected]]

All the other forces had transistor technology around those time but the Marine Corp got all the Navy hand-me-downs the majority fo which were vacuum tube tech. We were taught transistor theory but got few chances to apply it. It's amazing that those electronics could survive in the jet fighters.

 

[LedFTed]

I was USAF Air Craft electrician back in the early 1960's B52's & KC135 at my last base anyway. Memory might of failed me a bit but I thought most of our stuff was transistors by then? Some of the old prop planes might have had some tube stuff.

i wish they still had tube technology, for some things. an amplifier, with tubes, for music, can act way different, unless you can simulate it, with transistors.
my pop used to have a tube checker., for use with TV's. i got it now.
i do remember a black an white TV, that would pick up Lexington, 60 miles away, with the antennae on the TV. probably already said this some, in a different post. sorry