Honda ATV Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2005 Rancher 350 2x4. compression is good, good spark, plug gap is correct, fresh gas. Valve clearances not checked but don't rattle much.
Just started working on this new project. Engine turns over, but won't run. Was running since I have had it, but ran very rough.
So my issue is this. I wanted to know where the pilot screw was set, but it's like there isn't a pilot screw. I am trying to adjust it on the bike, so I can't see what is going on, but I insert the small screwdriver where the screw should be, and the screwdriver goes in about 1 1/2 inches without touching anything. Is the screw that far up there? Could the bike run without a pilot screw? Wouldn't fuel leak from there if there wasn't a screw?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,960 Posts
If the pilot screw was missing fuel would not necessarily be leaking out because the end of that hole is well above the fuel level in the float bowl. That screw pokes into the bore under the throttle plate when fully seated. See the manual for the order in which the spring, washer and o-ring are stacked on it, if you need to replace all of those parts.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Does anyone have a picture or diagram on where to check. The manual I am using has a picture with an arrow, but I may be checking the wrong hole.
I happen to just clean the carburetor on my 2001 Rancher a couple of weeks ago and took some pictures. Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,746 Posts
you can also look at a parts diagram. they all use the same micro fiche, at any parts place. i hope they got it right at the parts places.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hello again, I left for a little while, I just got back from visiting my Dad in SC. So the pilot screw was labeled wrong in my manual. I found it with the help of the above posts, and it was about 4+ turns past where the starting point should be. I gently turned it in until stop, then backed it out 1 3/4 turn. I eventually took the carb off, and cleaned the bowl really good. It is running much better now, just have an occasional miss.
I took a short video of it running, but it is in MP4 format, and I can't get it to post. Maybe y'all could help me get it posted.
What is your thought about the miss? It is accompanied by a cough and gas coming out of the air intake. Valve adjustment? Bad plug? Bad coil?
Happy New Year!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,960 Posts
The forums does not host videos, so you'll have to upload to youtube (or other videos site) and paste the links to them here.

As for the miss you are experiencing, you'll have to learn whether it is an ignition, fuel, or mechanical issue.

More than likely the carb needs a thorough cleaning with factory settings reassembly. Adjust the valves to .006", adjust the idle speed to 1450 RPMs, adjust idle mixture, replace the spark plug with a gapped NGK and see if that fixes it.

You'll need to read and follow the service manual, so let us know if you cannot... due to being stuck on a phone, so we'll understand how to help you better. Keep us updated if you can.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,746 Posts
i kinda suspect, someone broke the old recoil rope, because they didnt look into carb adjustments, specially the pilot.
intake problems are related to intake valve, and timing, there may be other causes.
could gas in the intake, be caused by float valve not seating not seating?, flooding the intake?? just asking. it may still be in the carb.
gas coming out the intake, leans towards a valve, not seating.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Dang! Those bolts are hard to reach. I did get the old cover off, but I don't know if I can get the new one back on. While doing that, I pulled a wire loose (looks like the connector was broken before). According to the wiring diagram, it goes to the ECT sensor. I'm guessing that is some kind of temp. sensor, but I couldn't find the description in the manual.
With a little trial and error, I got the valve clearances adjusted.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,960 Posts
The light blue wire? That goes to the oil temp sensor... lower, left-rear of the cases below the speed sensor & output shaft. There is a little steel wire guide that you'll have to remove to route that wire back to the sensor. Its covered in the service manual.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,960 Posts
Yes. While you are in there to reconnect that light blue wire, check the resistance of that oil temp sensor using a multimeter with your leads connected to the center pin and ground. The sensor should measure between 9.5k - 10.5k Ohms at room temp, or roughly 66-70 degrees F. If it measures out of range replace it.

If you turn the ignition switch on, you can test the fan control by momentarily grounding that light blue wire... the cooling fan should run and the oil temp light should glow on the display. Do Not leave that wire grounded to make the fan run full-time cause the fan control (inside the CDI) will overheat and fry.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I grounded the wire, and the light and fan came on, just like it's sposed to. The resistance was 19.7, but it was about 50 degrees in the shed. Would it make that much difference? i'll double-check when I get back out there.
Got the pull cord installed. That was easier than I thought.
Next step is cleaning the carb.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top