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Discussion Starter #21
apologies again Shadetree - Just found the procedures in the manual I have under the lights and switches section.
Basically same thing, however, I will certainly do these tests again and follow up. Keep you guys posted accordingly!

Thx again!
 

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apologies again Shadetree - Just found the procedures in the manual I have under the lights and switches section.
Basically same thing, however, I will certainly do these tests again and follow up. Keep you guys posted accordingly!

Thx again!
hey, np bro !. i would like to toss some info your way. the motor MUST be cranking over, in order for current to reach fuel cut-off relay, it then travels to the fuel pump. the reason for this is a safety feature honda built into these models. as long as the engine is not running ?, then no fuel will be pumping from the tank in case of a roll over ?. the oem fuel pump must have at least 3-4 psi to make the engine run correctly !. this is why i stated ^^^ DO NOT BUY A STUPID CHINA FUEL PUMP FROM EBAY OR AMAZON !!, they are not built to spec's, untrust worthy as all get out !. buy oem from honda, oem fuel cut-off relay wont hurt either, and a shindy carb kit, new spark plug does wonders for these old girls !. ever heard '' get what ya pay for '' ?..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks for the knowledge Shadetree! I'm confident with the knowledge you've got, if you can't help me get this damn thing going, its better off as a lawn ornament! lol .

Carb was taken off and cleaned, and I've now put 2 new sets of plugs through it, just incase ya know. lol. When she was running, she ran real well. I was actually surprised for a smaller bike, the places it went! Blew me away, hence my reason for trying so damn hard to save the old girl.
I certainly have heard get what ya pay for - I think thus far, I'm almost a grand worth of new parts at this damn thing to get it to fire up again, so when she does run, she should be good! New stator, CDI box, ignition coil, spark plugs, regulator/rectifier, battery, Royal purple oil (for the wet clutch) etc etc.
Now I will say... when I was cranking it over trying to get spark, the CDI box kept getting real warm as well. So who knows. I will do the diagnosis on the fuel cut out relay, change the pump, and go from there.

I'm wondering if the pump being so dang rusted, was shorting out the relay, maybe that is why she wouldn't spark? But again who knows, will find out when I go through the rest of the testing, and will keep you and Goober posted! Here's to fixing the old red best!

Cheers gentlemen, thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
So I have borrowed a used working pump from a friend for the bike to try this all out and here's what I found.
Between the black and green wire (12v feed) and the green (ground) at the fuel cut out relay, I have 12.4volts.
Between the black/ blue and green nothing.
Once I plug the relay in and turn the bike over, still no fuel pump. Test the black/blue and green wire at pump for power while cranking and have no voltage.
When I jump the power from the black/green at fuel pump relay to the black / blue pump comes on and is pumping fuel. But even with this jumped, still no spark.

That's what I've found so far tonight.
 

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So I have borrowed a used working pump from a friend for the bike to try this all out and here's what I found.
Between the black and green wire (12v feed) and the green (ground) at the fuel cut out relay, I have 12.4volts.
Between the black/ blue and green nothing.
Once I plug the relay in and turn the bike over, still no fuel pump. Test the black/blue and green wire at pump for power while cranking and have no voltage.
When I jump the power from the black/green at fuel pump relay to the black / blue pump comes on and is pumping fuel. But even with this jumped, still no spark.

That's what I've found so far tonight.
ok, is all parts oem from honda ?, i'm asking this, cuzz i know for 100%, most parts such as the stator, reg/rec are discontinued today !!, sooo, how did you replace them with new oem from honda ?, you couldnt have !..lol. tells me, they are china after market parts some dumb azz sold you, claiming they were oem..NOT !..LOL. as for the c.d.i. getting hot ?, only time i've heard of this is when the c.d.i. was a china after market c.d.i. !!. oem c.d.i.'s dont get hot !. sooooo, lets put you on the right path, and i hope you follow what i am gonna tell you ?!, if ya don't ?, your just tossing money away !!!!. first, you need a oem fuel pump from honda ( partzilla.com is the cheapest place to buy oem honda parts ! ), oem fuel cut-off relay from partzilla.com. check all fuses, check to make sure the kill switch is centered ?, might try working it back and forth from side to side, they corrode over through the years !. i hope you kept your old parts ?, and you just never ohm'ed them out ?, if ya did ohm them out, and they showed to be bad ?, then i would look for good used parts on ebay or power sports nation !. DO NOT BUY NEW CHINA AFTER MARKET PARTS !, SPEC WHEN THEY CLAIM IT FITS ALL YEARS ???!!...THEY DONT !!, AND WON'T !!!!. you need parts from a 1989-or higher if your in canada ? ( they sold them up until 92-93 in canada ). but '89 is your best shot for parts for yours !. make sure your neutral light is on, on the dash ?, it wont fire the spark plug unless the neutral light is lit up ?!. make sure your fan control unit is in good working condition ?, again..it wont fire the spark plug if it bad ?. why : simple, the fan control unit is a built in safety feature to shut power down to the c.d.i. in case the engine over heats, and tried to seize ?. WARNING !!!: THE FAN CONTROL UNIT IS DISCONTINUED TODAY !, your only option is a known good, working unit !. but !!, you can do a simple test to test it before you buy a fan control unit !!. right lower side foot rest, remove the metal plate from the lower engine clutch cover, behind it is three switches, your after the one switch all the way forward, unplug it, turn key on, neutral and oil temp light should come on, then oil light should go off after a couple sec's ?, now touch the oil temp switch wire to the engine, or any good ground, the fan should come on !, if it does not ?, then your fan control unit is bad, and you will never get the spark plug to fire !.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So, when I replaced stator I replaced with a used Honda stator out of an 89 that ran but had low compression. That's when the bike ran for a week then died while idling. When it died I replaced with brand new kimpex stator. After going through the info with Honda, they gave me an OEM number of 31120-HA7-651, which was Kimpex number 285662 for their HD stator, which was then installed. Still no spark, but I do believe I have the used oem stator that was removed at a family members about 4 hours north of me.

CDI, and rec/reg were changed with oem parts off the same 89 bike.

I will certainly try the fan trick before I buy the fuel cut out relay. I've put some adds out to find used OEM parts for the cut out relay, fuel pump, another CDI (as my oem one is again 4 hours north, and did get hot when bike died). Going to have to see if I can find some good used parts to get this thing back up and running before I put out a whole lot more money into er as the total continues to climb lol, this old bike is getting expensive! HAHAHA Thankfully for you guys, I'm at least saving on the labor, and surely getting closer to the cause.
This machine belongs to my parents, and they want to use it just for out in the fields, getting wood, plowing and etc so I'm just trying to get it up and operational for them. They did take it to 2 small engine shops (one was a honda dealer as well), while I was busy on other projects, and neither could figure out what was wrong. So the cost of fixing this poor old girl is getting higher and higher, hopefully with the help I've got so far from you folks, the end is in sight! LOL. So I will continue to test and change the pieces as needed one at a time until I find what gives her spark again. Then at least I will know what's caused it, and the experience of going through it will certainly help should they ever have any other issues with it in the future. lol. We have determined the Fuel cut out relay is no good, and I think you may be on to something with the fan control module. Because when I was driving it, she was good, it didn't die until I let it idle for a while. So could have possibly called for fan to engage, and posed an issue with the control module... We shall find out.

I did find a guy who's got an 89 trx350 he's parting out, but he's 4 hours from me, and won't sell or ship anything for the next 14 days with what's going on with the covid-19, social distancing, and self isolation.

So in answer to the questions asked, and I hope I get the order right here we go:
Fuses checked: all good both sides of the fuse with power probe, putting out proper voltage.
Kill switch: Played with back and forth, while testing for power delivery to the CDI. As soon as kill switch is moved from center, power is lost at the CDI box. Restored when switch parked back in center, with zero fluctuation. Soon as that switch is moved off its center point, power gone until switch returned there. Same for ignition key.
OEM parts removed: I have kept all of my oem parts. They are all at my parents place still, 4 hours north of me. (When they dropped bike back off for me to fix, forgot to leave those, so I will make a trip, or they will, to give the parts back) The original stator that was on the bike when they purchased had the melted wires, I believe that one is gone. However the other one purchased from the 89 bike, I still have. I don't believe I ohm'd it out. Just assumed (I know, I'm a dumbass for assuming) that because it had spark when that was put on to er, that it had died as well, and needed replacing. However, it is OEM, and still obtainable. So is the Original CDI that was on the bike (she got hot, and let one of the resistors pop out the back through that gel portion) and the other OEM CDI I purchased off the 89 parts bike. I have learned the lesson you were teaching about DO NOT BUY CHEAP CHINA AMAZON OR EBAY PARTS. OEM ONLY! LOL
Neutral light: Is illuminated on the dash.
Oil Light: illuminates for a second, and goes out.
Fan control module: Will check tonight

Long story short, I'll do the test tonight on the fan as you suggested, and advise back, and we will carry on again from there.

Wish me luck!

Thanks again, and I'll keep posted updates as I go.
 

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good deal, please keep me posted on what you find on the fan control !.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So I have taken off the cover and grounded out the oil temp sensor, and right on que the fan came on no problems...
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I'll go through and actually test all the leads to the fan control module on the weekend, just make sure it's all working, but if the fan comes on when temp switch is grounded, I'd assume that means the module is okay... So where we stand is knowing the fuel pump relay is not putting out power to the pump when cranking, but that's all I've got to go on so far... Would that cause no spark though or just no fuel feed...
 

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I'll go through and actually test all the leads to the fan control module on the weekend, just make sure it's all working, but if the fan comes on when temp switch is grounded, I'd assume that means the module is okay... So where we stand is knowing the fuel pump relay is not putting out power to the pump when cranking, but that's all I've got to go on so far... Would that cause no spark though or just no fuel feed...
no fuel. no spark is from a bad stator ?, bad reg/rec ?, or bad c.d.i. ?. sounds like your fan control is working as far as fan goes, but is the oil light coming on, then going back off after a couple sec's ?. if not ?, then the fan control is still bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yes. Soon as you turn on the key, oil light comes on for about 2 or three seconds then goes out
 

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Yes. Soon as you turn on the key, oil light comes on for about 2 or three seconds then goes out
good deal, your fan control unit is good !. leaves the c.d.i. , reg/rec, or stator ?.
 

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you must be bird dog'ing this thread for answers ?..rofl.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I'm checking everything I can man, like I said, this bike has me ready to pull my hair out. I thought for sure we were onto something with the fan module. Now I'm not even sure if the fuel relay is bad, or if it's just not getting the signal to turn on. Just driving me nuts lol.
But fuel relay does have power on the wire it's supposed to, does have ground where it's supposed to, but doesn't put anything out, not sure where it gets its signal to engage or allow power through if it's only when bike is cranking to tell if it's getting that or not, but it's definetly frustrating me lol
 

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I'm checking everything I can man, like I said, this bike has me ready to pull my hair out. I thought for sure we were onto something with the fan module. Now I'm not even sure if the fuel relay is bad, or if it's just not getting the signal to turn on. Just driving me nuts lol.
But fuel relay does have power on the wire it's supposed to, does have ground where it's supposed to, but doesn't put anything out, not sure where it gets its signal to engage or allow power through if it's only when bike is cranking to tell if it's getting that or not, but it's definetly frustrating me lol
fuel cut-off relay gets a pulse signal from the crank when cranking over, all this goes through the c.d.i.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Any way of testing to see if it's getting that pulse signal? Maybe help rule out one thing at a time is all I'm thinking
 

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Any way of testing to see if it's getting that pulse signal? Maybe help rule out one thing at a time is all I'm thinking
no way, without a oem fuel pump, and oem fuel cut-off relay ?, there is no way that i know of ?. you can hook the fuel pump ( if you have an oem ? ) straight to 12 volt dc ( car battery ) and see if it pulses ?, DO NOT RUN IT LONG THIS WAY WITHOUT FUEL IN IT !!!!, or you will burn it up in sec's !!!. if it works ?, then your fuel cut-off relay is bad. if it does not work ?, then the pump is bad. none of this will matter once all hooked up..if the oem c.d.i. is bad ?, it will not work anything.
 

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before you ask !!!, there is no way to check to see if the c.d.i. is bad without a known working one from same year/make/model ?, or a brand new c.d.i. from honda ?.
 

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