[Mrcarguy]

Morning folks - Need some help with this one. . . .

Got a '92 honda TRX350 (yes, I'm in Canada LOL). I understand they are the same as the '89.
we got the bike not running, with the charge wires from the stator melted.
I replaced the stator with a used one out of an 88. Bike started right up, ran great. I rode it for a week, until sitting outside in the driveway idling for about 6 minutes and it died.
Rolled into the garage, and checked, no power to fuel pump, no spark.
Figured the used stator had decided to pack it in, and ordered brand new one. Installed - still no spark.
Installed new CDI, Ignition coil, spark plug, regulator/rectifier etc to no avail. Still no spark.
I have gone through the manual, and tested continuity on all the wiring, as well as ohm'd out the stator, ignition coil (across the terminals, and to the boot), and pickup coil / pulse generator, and all come back within spec.
The battery is fully charged, and there is fuel in the tank.
I have checked for power at the CDI box, and found the 12V when ignition is on, and kill switch in run. Turn either off, and the 12V power is gone, so those seem to be working correctly.
Have continuity between the harness where stator plugs into chassis harness, and the CDI box, between CDI box and ignition coil, stator pickup (pulse) wire at cdi to where it plugs into stator, all test out having continuity.

About to pull my hair out with this machine...

Anybody have any insight or anything I may have overlooked with this?

Thanks in advance all!

 

[Goober]

Will it sputter if you hit it with some starting fluid?

Perform fuel flow test? Maybe fuel cut relay malfunctioning

Checked the reg/rec?

 

[Goober]

Why did the stator melt wires? Bad battery or reg/rec?

it sputter if you hit it with some starting fluid?

Perform fuel flow test? Maybe fuel cut relay malfunctioning.

 

[Mrcarguy]

not sure why it melted.

But I did change the Stator, as well as the regulator/rectifier just incase. When I removed the old regulator, it was definitely fried. Smelled of burnt wires, and the back had clearly got hot.

Changed them both out, and as I said, had no issues for a week. Then while idling just sputtered till it died, and haven't been able to start since.

No power to fuel pump (that I could see with Power probe or multimeter), no spark.
Even with spark plug in, and a shot, wont' attempt to sputter, as we still have no spark right. Just driving me crazy. Been messing with it for about 10 months now (8.5 of them it was parked somewhere safe so I didn't burn or bury it! LOL)

Thanks Goober

 

[Goober]

Running and then quit huh?

Resistance check the pulse generator and stator

you getting power out of the reg/rec?

Try that fuel relay cut test and fuel flow test

CDI fail maybe? You have the old CDI?

 

[Goober]

OH check all the fuses
I think The newer model had a big fuse separate from the main fuse panel

 

[Mrcarguy]

Running and quit after idling for about 5-6 mins.

Resistance checked the pulse generator, and stator as per the repair manual. Both in spec.

Haven't tested for power out of the reg/rectifier , didn't know if there would be without the machine running ?

I did check for voltage output from stator plug, while cranking. The plug with the 3 yellow wires direct from stator puts out 2volts while cranking.

But I did also test continuity between the ground and ignition wires from stator on ignition poles, to the magnet on the ignition poles of the stator, and they both had continuity to the magnet. Not sure if that may pose an issue or is normal...

How would one test the Fuel Cut out Relay and I'll certainly make the attempt? I'm up for trying just about anything at this point.

 

[Mrcarguy]

checked all fuses (including main fuse separate from the box) all fuses are good, power on both sides of them.

 

[Goober]

ok you’re getting there. You have the service manual?

I had similar in my 86; only performed the checks as shown in the manual. PO put a Foreman stator in it.

Download the service manual and parts links in my signature block below.
Look for TRX350 Foreman. Fuel cut relay check in there

 

[Mrcarguy]

Appreciate that Goober -

I will see what I can do with that this over the next day or so, and carry on from there.

I have read different information - Some say that the fuel cut relay will stop the machine from sparking as well, some say it will not, so not quite sure.

I did have the 86-89 manual, but didn't have the 350-350D specs one, so I will give that a look, and see what I can find.

Thanks again,

 

[Mrcarguy]

I wondered if it was incorrect stator that I was supplied by Kimpex by chance as well, which would explain it testing out good, but not actually working. So again, just about ready to pull hair out with this machine. I'm usually pretty good with them, so that is why this one irritates me a little more so.
Appreciate the assistance.

 

[Goober]

Yeah that’s the manual I don’t know of any other. I imagine you still have the Revolution Series CDI.

New OEM terribly hard to find and Honda support whithered away. if you got aftermarket parts there’s no telling if they’re correct spec.

yeah so stay patient it’s like working on a 1940s tractor at this point

There are ways to test the stator output but i am not sure how to do it.

the overheat warning system (bad FCU) will also inhibit spark

 

[Mrcarguy]

thx Goober -
I'll give a try to the information you have passed along to me, and see if i can come up with any other answers or info, and will update accordingly as I go.
Thanks again,

 

[Mrcarguy]

So I may have found one of my issues...
When going through the tests you directed me to, thanks again, found fuel pump was not pumping any fuel at all even when jumped. So I took it off and ran direct 12v and ground to it, still no attempt to work. So I took it apart...
Not sure if it will have anything to do with not sparking, but this is what I found...

 

[Goober]

Great job i think you found the problem.
These pumps are not rebuildable. An OEM Honda pump will run you ~$150 US. Beware of sellers advertising OEM spec.

 

[Mrcarguy]

Thank to you Goober - appreciate the help.
Any idea if that would affect it for spark though?

 

[Mrcarguy]

I just wouldn't think fuel pump would kill ignition, should spark all day just not have fuel would be my thought... But I have been wrong before lol.
Thanks again!

 

[Goober]

That I’m not sure about—possible a short condition might cause the fuel cut relay circuit to malfunction, inhibiting ignition.
@shadetree might know.

Once you get a new fuel pump on there, you might restore function
don’t know if you could successfully clip in a test light in place of the pump.

 

[shadetree]

you must have a good working fuel cut-off relay before you buy/replace the fuel pump !!, DO NOT BUY ONE OF THOSE STUPID CHINA PUMPS FROM EBAY OR AMAZON !!., honda still sells them for around 130 bucks. yes the service manual states how to test the fuel cut-off relay in the service manual.

 

[Mrcarguy]

sorry Shadetree, just saw this response -

I just quickly went through the manual I have again, checked the fuel system section, as well as ignition section just in-case, but not seeing where that one directs me to test the fuel cut off relay or how.
However, in the other book Goober was kind enough to direct me to, it does list how to test the relay.
Which I believe I have checked and verified, however will do so again just to be sure.
By unplugging the 3 terminal connector from the fuel cut out relay, leaving the other connector plugged in, turn on key, and with voltmeter, checking for voltage between black/green wire, and the green. Should show battery voltage (believe mine did) and should show nothing when positive put on to the blue/black. Which mine didn't.

Reconnect 3 pin connector, and run engine (obviously can't do that currently) and check for voltage between the connectors for black/blue and green leading to the pump. My question shadetree, with the bike not running, I'm assuming there should still be 12v going to the pump from the fuel cut off relay as it turns over, or even with ignition just turned on? And do you know if the badly destroyed fuel pump would be able to inhibit the spark by some chance?

I will verify these tests again either this evening or tomorrow evening when I'm back at the beast and update accordingly.

Thanks again for the direction and all the help folks, it is greatly appreciated. I will get on ordering a pump from Honda for this little bike - Thankfully, I do know the bike does run good, as I had it running and riding for about a week before this all kicked out again. lol.