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oil plug stripped??

9K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  Pdubya 
#1 ·
I had an oil change and filter done about this time last year by my local Honda dealer. Used my Rancher for a couple days ice-fishing, then put it away in a storage unit. When I was in the unit this summer I found oil all over the floor. I went back to dealer and asked what could possibly leaking. Dealer suggested differential or oil pan - check to see if something was loose. Didn’t do anything at the time as I didn’t have time, but just looked at it today and could see if was coming from oil plug. I put on my torque wrench and the plug kept turning, never reaching the 18 lbs the manual says. I took it out and appeared no crush washer was present, so bought one and reinstalled. I could never tighten the plug with the torque wrench, and after refilling with oil, parked the machine in my garage and just checked it...oil leaking on floor again. The machine is like brand new - 2006 with 500 miles and low hours. I believe the dealer tech screwed up installing the plug in the last oil change. I know the dealer would deny this, so I know it’s not something I have much recourse on, but to re-thread the hole and stop the leak, what are my options? Looked for guidance.
 
#2 ·
do a search on this forum, for stripped oil plug. you are not the first to have this problem.. plenty has been written about this..
 
#4 ·
OP, if it were me in your shoes ?, I would locate the paper work for the oil change, and head back to the dealership, and try to have a word with the manager there. may or may not help ?, but its worth a shot. other than this ?, myself..i would replace the engine case that has the stripped drain plug. yes I know this is a royal pain to do, spec if you have never split an engine case ?!. but I just don't bother with '' jerry rigging '' oil drain plugs. your call.
 
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#5 ·
You could try some plumbers thread tape on your bolt. Get the wide 3/4 inch.
Shadetree and others here have said it’s tough to trust a torque wrench—unless you regularly calibrate it, how do you know it’s good? Besides you get oil on the threads and then it’s easier to overtorque that bolt.
Okay If you can get it up on a lift you might try and look for cracks in the metal surrounding the drain hole.
We had a member here last year that did a pretty good repair on case cracks using JB weld or something. I’m trying to find that thread but the thread search tool here is awful.
 
#7 ·
Thanks to all for your responses. Really appreciate it. I believe I will take a shot and have a discussion with the dealer manager. I hate to jerry-rig as well, but not sure what cost would be to replace oil pan so not excited about that, but it may be best overall. Any ideas on what it would cost me? I’m not savvy enough to do myself. Anyway, I’ll keep you posted on what I find out.
 
#8 ·
labor from dealer ship will be very high. the part is not bad in price. if you do it ?, then I figure you will save about 2k-3k ?. get the idea ? :).
 
#9 ·
With the cost of dealer labor these days, it would be my suggestion to jerry-rig it any way you can to stop the leak and make sure the plug does not FALL OUT. If you choose the JB Weld option, insure that all oil is cleaned off all surfaces. Completely! Lose a plug while riding and your engine will be junk. To separate the engine case and remove-replace the guts is beyond the scope of most backyard mechanics. But, it can be done by anyone with a decent mechanical aptitude. Get a service manual and any custom tools required if you attempt it.
 
#10 ·
I see right now, your the type of guy that would be re-doing your work over and over by '' jerry-rigging '' your toys. i've split many cases, nothing to it, just takes time and tools, and the skill, guess you lack the skill ?. you better stick with your '' jerry-rigging'' then...lol.
 
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