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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am working on 2006 Honda trx350 rancher for a friend. I am having a problem with it not sparking. I have been through the trouble shooting in the manual and searched online for any other info to check. So far this is what I have done:
1. Checked the kill switch which was good
2. Check all connections they were all good
3. Checked the pulse generator with a peak voltage adaptor on a multimeter and the voltage it was cranking was around 5 volts and the manual said the minimum was .7. So I don't know if that is too high or not.
4. Checked the charging system just to make sure by checking continuity. It all checked out.
5. Checked the gear position switch. It was also good.
6. Got a new spark plug along with a new ignition coil.
7. Then I checked the voltage going to the ignition coil. This is where it kinda gets weird. So when the ignition coil is plugged in there is only about .04 volts going through the black yellow wire when the engine is cranking over. But if I unplug the coil and just put the multi meter into the the wire it reads 120 volts constantly.
8. Checked fuses also all good.
So after checking all these things it is still not sparking. I have a spark tester that I am using and also just touching the spark plug into the cylinder. But when I have my spark tester all hooked up when I turn it on the tester flashes but doesn't do anything else. The only thing I can think this would be is the ICM (cdi). But there is no way to test it that I know of other then getting one that works. And I know no one that has one that I could borrow to swap in. Does this sound like this could be the problem, or is there something I'm missing?
 

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other than swapping in a known good working c.d.i. ?, no, there is no way to test them. are you getting a neutral light when the key is turned on ?, if not ?, it will never spark.
 

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other than swapping in a known good working c.d.i. ?, no, there is no way to test them. are you getting a neutral light when the key is turned on ?, if not ?, it will never spark.
Yep when I turn the key on I get the green light.
ok, odds are, stator is bad ?, reg/rec is bad ?, or pulse coil is bad ?, spark plug coil is bad ?, or worse case, c.d.i. is bad?. you said you checked all of this, I would say ( unless your checking was wrong ? ), the c.d.i. is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
other than swapping in a known good working c.d.i. ?, no, there is no way to test them. are you getting a neutral light when the key is turned on ?, if not ?, it will never spark.
Yep when I turn the key on I get the green light.
ok, odds are, stator is bad ?, reg/rec is bad ?, or pulse coil is bad ?, spark plug coil is bad ?, or worse case, c.d.i. is bad?. you said you checked all of this, I would say ( unless your checking was wrong ? ), the c.d.i. is bad.
I guess I can say the ways that I checked each thing and see if it was right.
1. Pulse coil- had a peak voltage adaptor for my multimeter then put one probe into the blue/yellow wire and the other probe into the green/white. Both of these wires were in the black connector that plugs into the CDI
2. Ignition coil- I just bought a new one to try it and it didn't fix it. But is there a way to test it?
3. Regulator/Rectifier- unplugged the plug then made sure the red wire had voltage going to it which it did. Then checked resistance between each yellow wire and it was at .7.
4. Stator- unplugged the 5 pin plug attached to the frame. Then checked continuity between each yellow wire. What other ways can I test this.
 

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Yep when I turn the key on I get the green light.
ok, odds are, stator is bad ?, reg/rec is bad ?, or pulse coil is bad ?, spark plug coil is bad ?, or worse case, c.d.i. is bad?. you said you checked all of this, I would say ( unless your checking was wrong ? ), the c.d.i. is bad.
I guess I can say the ways that I checked each thing and see if it was right.
1. Pulse coil- had a peak voltage adaptor for my multimeter then put one probe into the blue/yellow wire and the other probe into the green/white. Both of these wires were in the black connector that plugs into the CDI
2. Ignition coil- I just bought a new one to try it and it didn't fix it. But is there a way to test it?
3. Regulator/Rectifier- unplugged the plug then made sure the red wire had voltage going to it which it did. Then checked resistance between each yellow wire and it was at .7.
4. Stator- unplugged the 5 pin plug attached to the frame. Then checked continuity between each yellow wire. What other ways can I test this.
to test the stator, you have the yellow wire part correct, but you also have to test one yellow wire with red tester lead on each yellow wire, while keeping the black lead to ground ( engine or cover ), you should not see anything when doing this ?, if you do ?, your stator has a short. the thing people don't know or understand ?, stators have TWO charging sides to them !, one side fires the pick up coil, and the other side charges the battery, and runs the lights. there is NO way to test a working or non-working c.d.i. !, only way you can test a unknown c.d.i. ?, is replace it with a working c.d.i that you KNOW was firing an atv, same year, same make, same model. if it won't fire from a known working atv ?, then it's not the c.d.i. it's other electrical issues. have you checked the ignition switch ?, a bad ignition switch won't fire the spark plug either if its bad ?, not working right .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
ok, odds are, stator is bad ?, reg/rec is bad ?, or pulse coil is bad ?, spark plug coil is bad ?, or worse case, c.d.i. is bad?. you said you checked all of this, I would say ( unless your checking was wrong ? ), the c.d.i. is bad.
I guess I can say the ways that I checked each thing and see if it was right.
1. Pulse coil- had a peak voltage adaptor for my multimeter then put one probe into the blue/yellow wire and the other probe into the green/white. Both of these wires were in the black connector that plugs into the CDI
2. Ignition coil- I just bought a new one to try it and it didn't fix it. But is there a way to test it?
3. Regulator/Rectifier- unplugged the plug then made sure the red wire had voltage going to it which it did. Then checked resistance between each yellow wire and it was at .7.
4. Stator- unplugged the 5 pin plug attached to the frame. Then checked continuity between each yellow wire. What other ways can I test this.
to test the stator, you have the yellow wire part correct, but you also have to test one yellow wire with red tester lead on each yellow wire, while keeping the black lead to ground ( engine or cover ), you should not see anything when doing this ?, if you do ?, your stator has a short. the thing people don't know or understand ?, stators have TWO charging sides to them !, one side fires the pick up coil, and the other side charges the battery, and runs the lights. there is NO way to test a working or non-working c.d.i. !, only way you can test a unknown c.d.i. ?, is replace it with a working c.d.i that you KNOW was firing an atv, same year, same make, same model. if it won't fire from a known working atv ?, then it's not the c.d.i. it's other electrical issues. have you checked the ignition switch ?, a bad ignition switch won't fire the spark plug either if its bad ?, not working right .
Is there a way to test that I am getting power from each of these coils inside the stator?
 

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I guess I can say the ways that I checked each thing and see if it was right.
1. Pulse coil- had a peak voltage adaptor for my multimeter then put one probe into the blue/yellow wire and the other probe into the green/white. Both of these wires were in the black connector that plugs into the CDI
2. Ignition coil- I just bought a new one to try it and it didn't fix it. But is there a way to test it?
3. Regulator/Rectifier- unplugged the plug then made sure the red wire had voltage going to it which it did. Then checked resistance between each yellow wire and it was at .7.
4. Stator- unplugged the 5 pin plug attached to the frame. Then checked continuity between each yellow wire. What other ways can I test this.
to test the stator, you have the yellow wire part correct, but you also have to test one yellow wire with red tester lead on each yellow wire, while keeping the black lead to ground ( engine or cover ), you should not see anything when doing this ?, if you do ?, your stator has a short. the thing people don't know or understand ?, stators have TWO charging sides to them !, one side fires the pick up coil, and the other side charges the battery, and runs the lights. there is NO way to test a working or non-working c.d.i. !, only way you can test a unknown c.d.i. ?, is replace it with a working c.d.i that you KNOW was firing an atv, same year, same make, same model. if it won't fire from a known working atv ?, then it's not the c.d.i. it's other electrical issues. have you checked the ignition switch ?, a bad ignition switch won't fire the spark plug either if its bad ?, not working right .
Is there a way to test that I am getting power from each of these coils inside the stator?
yep, plenty of videos on youtube that can show you how :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
to test the stator, you have the yellow wire part correct, but you also have to test one yellow wire with red tester lead on each yellow wire, while keeping the black lead to ground ( engine or cover ), you should not see anything when doing this ?, if you do ?, your stator has a short. the thing people don't know or understand ?, stators have TWO charging sides to them !, one side fires the pick up coil, and the other side charges the battery, and runs the lights. there is NO way to test a working or non-working c.d.i. !, only way you can test a unknown c.d.i. ?, is replace it with a working c.d.i that you KNOW was firing an atv, same year, same make, same model. if it won't fire from a known working atv ?, then it's not the c.d.i. it's other electrical issues. have you checked the ignition switch ?, a bad ignition switch won't fire the spark plug either if its bad ?, not working right .
Is there a way to test that I am getting power from each of these coils inside the stator?
yep, plenty of videos on youtube that can show you how :).
Okay I tested for continuity between all yellow wires and ground and got nothing so that is good. I also checked ac voltage between each yellow wire and got 5.2 volts while it was cranking. Is that low bc it sure seems low?
 

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Hi: When using the Peak Voltage Adapter to check the Pulse Gen. & the ign. Coil you should have your meter set on the AC scale. -- both those voltage are ac volts
When checking the stator coil --- from yellow to yellow on the AC scale you should read 16 - 20 volts AC or better.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi: When using the Peak Voltage Adapter to check the Pulse Gen. & the ign. Coil you should have your meter set on the AC scale. -- both those voltage are ac volts
When checking the stator coil --- from yellow to yellow on the AC scale you should read 16 - 20 volts AC or better.
Okay I retested the voltages on ac. Between each yellow wire I got right around 16 volts. But when I tested the pulse coil at the cdi box it was just a constant 26 volts even when I cranked it over. So then I went to the round plug with the three wires and the pulse coil wire and tested it there and it was putting out 8 volts when I cranked it over. Then when I tested the voltage at the ignition coil it was 8.8 volts when the bl/y wire was plugged into the coil but if it isn't plugged into the coil it gets around 160 volts. And neither of those values change when cranking over the engine.
 

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Hi: Make sure your battery is fully charged -- if you are using the hold function on your meter, turn it off when taking the ac reading -- all ac voltages are checked when the bike is being turn over by the starter motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi: Make sure your battery is fully charged -- if you are using the hold function on your meter, turn it off when taking the ac reading -- all ac voltages are checked when the bike is being turn over by the starter motor.
All the voltages are from cranking over the engine with the starter. But when I tested the pulse gen at the cdi box it was a constant 26 volts regardless of cranking over the engine or not. Also when I tested voltage at the ignition coil it was constant voltage even when cranking.
 

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Hi: Unplug the ICM and recheck the AC voltages again --- What is TRX350?? FM FE ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi: Unplug the ICM and recheck the AC voltages again --- What is TRX350?? FM FE ?
Okay the pulse generator is now 8.8 volts when cranking. The ignition coil is 8.8 volts when plugged in and when it isn't plugged in it reads 164 volts. The ignition coil voltage doesn't change when it is cranking. I figured the voltage should jump when cranking over the engine. But nothing happens. It is a trx350fe. That is the model.
 

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Hi: Unplug the ICM and recheck the AC voltages again --- What is TRX350?? FM FE ?
Okay the pulse generator is now 8.8 volts when cranking. The ignition coil is 8.8 volts when plugged in and when it isn't plugged in it reads 164 volts. The ignition coil voltage doesn't change when it is cranking. I figured the voltage should jump when cranking over the engine. But nothing happens. It is a trx350fe. That is the model.
You are saying with the ICM connector unplugged -- you are getting 8.8 volts AC on the Bu/Y wire to ground and 164 volts AC on Bl/Y wire to ground or is the 164 volts AC there when you remove the Bl/Y wire off the Ign. coil?

Remove the Bl/Y and G wires from the Ign. coil and check the primary lugs for resistance -- should read 0.1 - 2.0 ohms -- also with both wires off of coil check the continuity of the lugs to ground should read infinity. The secondary side of the coil from each lug to the spark plug cap should read 6 - 9 K ohms
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi: Unplug the ICM and recheck the AC voltages again --- What is TRX350?? FM FE ?
Okay the pulse generator is now 8.8 volts when cranking. The ignition coil is 8.8 volts when plugged in and when it isn't plugged in it reads 164 volts. The ignition coil voltage doesn't change when it is cranking. I figured the voltage should jump when cranking over the engine. But nothing happens. It is a trx350fe. That is the model.
You are saying with the ICM connector unplugged -- you are getting 8.8 volts AC on the Bu/Y wire to ground and 164 volts AC on Bl/Y wire to ground or is the 164 volts AC there when you remove the Bl/Y wire off the Ign. coil?

Remove the Bl/Y and G wires from the Ign. coil and check the primary lugs for resistance -- should read 0.1 - 2.0 ohms -- also with both wires off of coil check the continuity of the lugs to ground should read infinity. The secondary side of the coil from each lug to the spark plug cap should read 6 - 9 K ohms
That is correct on the Bu/y wire when I have the icm unplugged I get 8.8 ac volts when cranking over the engine. But the Bl/y wire has no volts when it is unplugged from the icm. So I have to have the everything plugged in to test the wires going to the ignition coil. But when the bl/y and green wire is plugged into the ign coil I only get 8.8 volts by punching the probe through the wire insulation. But if I unplug the Bl/y wire from the ign coil I get 164 ac volts.

When testing resistance between primary lugs I got .8 ohms. I don't know what you mean by testing the continuity of the lugs to ground. But from each lug to the inside of the cap read 7k ohms.

I really appreciate you going through this with me thank you.
 

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Hi: When checking each coil lugs to ground for continuity just put your meter lead on the lug and the other lead on the bolt that holds the coil onto the bike.

Also try this leave the the Bl/Y wire on the coil and remove the G wire from the coil, then place your meter on the lug where the G wire was -- check to see if you have 164 volts AC on that lug.
 

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Okay -- do this next
Also try this leave the the Bl/Y wire on the coil and remove the G wire from the coil, then place your meter on the lug where the G wire was -- check to see if you have 164 volts AC on that lug that the green wire was removed.
 
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