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Discussion Starter #1
please help ! I checked stator resistance and good. I replaced ignition coil, cdi rev box. Checked all connections, grounds checked. Need help testing or bypassing kill switch. What else can I check besides plug also.
 

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Read the fault tree in the shop manual. It is a free download that will keep you from wasting time and more importantly, money.

Rick

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Rick, I've working on that tree as well trying to understand these electrical issues. I did do a continuity check on kill switch and it has continuity with it on or off. How can I bypass this ? Thanks
 

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Since you didn't mention anything about what year or model machine you are working on, I can only make some guesses. You said you have continuity through the kill switch whether it is on or off. I assume you made this measurement with the wires disconnected from the switch, right? If so, then it would seem you have a problem at the kill switch because you should have continuity there with the switch in one position and no continuity with the switch in the other position. If your machine is the type that grounds the circuit with the kill switch to kill the ignition, then you could try disconnecting the wires from the kill switch and then see if you have spark. If you do, that supports the thinking that the kill switch is bad.
 

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Disconnect the switch from the harness. . . . make up a push button and connect it to the yellow/red and the black wire. You can see if it will start this way? if you still have no spark. Disconnect the key switch from the harness and jump the red and black in the harness then re-connect the lighting run/stop switch and try again. Keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok, got kill switch fixed, now working on testing ignition pulse generator.
It says in manual, Connect the peak voltage tester or adaptor probes to the connector terminals of the wire harness side.
It says peak voltage tester, so this is something different than my voltage tester?
 

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ok, got kill switch fixed, now working on testing ignition pulse generator.
It says in manual, Connect the peak voltage tester or adaptor probes to the connector terminals of the wire harness side.
It says peak voltage tester, so this is something different than my voltage tester?
Yes it connects to your multi meter It's also called a DVA (Direct Voltage Adapter) I would say you have a bad stator. You cannot replace the pulse generator on the 400ex
 

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ok, got kill switch fixed, now working on testing ignition pulse generator.
It says in manual, Connect the peak voltage tester or adaptor probes to the connector terminals of the wire harness side.
It says peak voltage tester, so this is something different than my voltage tester?
Yes, it is something different from a typical voltage meter. The voltage tester needs to have a very high impedance rating. Going by memory, I think it needs to have an impedance rating of 10 M ohms/volt, but check the manual on that. The reason being that typical voltage meters that have lower impedance will load the system down so much to the point that the ignition system won't function, making diagnosis impossible. This is a problem for most of us because it is uncommon to have the correct type of peak voltage tester. My volt meters have an impedance rating around 25 K ohms/volt, which is not even close to what is needed. Maybe a high impedance oscilloscope would work, but most people don't have that either.
 

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Yes, you don't see those used "megger" or "Megohm" meters come up for sale much anymore. Fluke might still make one but it would be very expensive. As with yours, my meter would definitely affect the circuit under test rendering any such measurement as this useless.

Rick

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Hi: You can build you own Peak Voltage Adapter -- like I did for a few bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the replies !
Here's what I've done and now have spark. I went ahead and got a new stator and the ignition pulse generator came with it. During disassembly noticed that the flywheel bolts had backed out and started to rub on the coils on the stator.
So installed new stator and bingo, hello spark. Again thanks for all the help.
 

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Someone replaced the starter clutch and didnt use the red loctite on the bolts like they were supposed to. Thats the only way those bolts could ever back out. Factory they are red loctited and most of the time they require a torch to remove. Glad you got it figured out! And hope you put loctite on them bolts!
 

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Thanks for all the replies !
Here's what I've done and now have spark. I went ahead and got a new stator and the ignition pulse generator came with it. During disassembly noticed that the flywheel bolts had backed out and started to rub on the coils on the stator.
So installed new stator and bingo, hello spark. Again thanks for all the help.
Glad you got it fixed. We are here if you need any more help.
 
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