[bmw20017]

I have been 2 days straight trying to figure out what is keeping my 1995 Honda Fourtrax 300 from not getting any electrical power. It has no lights on the handlebars, no headlights, no brake or taillights I have used a jumper on the diode, rewired the safety switch(and the neutral light will not illuminate when it is grounded). I have put hot directly to the neutral switch light and it will light up for just a second and go off. I have replaced the solenoid, replaced the key ignition switch last year. Both wires on the starter are testing as grounds, that doesn't seem to be right, is it? the fuse on the red wire under the seat is good, it does have power to the key switch as well. The starter will turn over by jumping the solenoid. It will not start by kick starting it either. I sure hope someone can help! Thanks in advance!

 

[Goober]

Did you check the two glass 15A? fuses in the battery compartment? The fuzes are in separate plastic holders. Here’s a pic

 

[shadetree]

you need to find out why the neutral light is not coming on ?!. and you rewired a safety switch...what safety switch are you talking about ?. you said you replaced the ignition switch last year , was it oem from honda ?, or some stupid china switch from ebay or amazon ?. you say you got power into ignition switch, but are you getting power out of the ignition switch ??.

 

[shadetree]

just guessing here ? ( cuz I can't see it ), but..if your not getting power out of ignition switch ?, then this is why the neutral light wont come on !.

 

[bmw20017]

Mine only has 1 fuse, I guess it was modified by previous owner

 

[bmw20017]

just guessing here ? ( cuz I can't see it ), but..if your not getting power out of ignition switch ?, then this is why the neutral light wont come on !.

Can the ignition switch be bypassed?

 

[bmw20017]

you need to find out why the neutral light is not coming on ?!. and you rewired a safety switch...what safety switch are you talking about ?. you said you replaced the ignition switch last year , was it oem from honda ?, or some stupid china switch from ebay or amazon ?. you say you got power into ignition switch, but are you getting power out of the ignition switch ??.

The neutral safety switch is the one I rewired. The ignition switch was oem.no power coming out of the switch, should power out going to be one of the pink wires or the black?

 

[retro]

It sounds like you'll need a copy of the service manual:

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...nual-help/50817-service-manual-downloads.html

 

[shadetree]

It sounds like you'll need a copy of the service manual:

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...nual-help/50817-service-manual-downloads.html

it sounds like he's got it all hacked to hell and back, and no telling what all is fried ??!!..lol.

 

[bmw20017]

It sounds like you'll need a copy of the service manual:

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...nual-help/50817-service-manual-downloads.html

it sounds like he's got it all hacked to hell and back, and no telling what all is fried ??!!..lol.

It's not all hacked up, I tested the neutral safety switch, it didn't have a clean current. I've been a mechanic for 30+ years but electrical isn't my strong suit and that's why I am searching for help not critisizism. So is there anyone with ideas that can help me?

 

[shadetree]

It sounds like you'll need a copy of the service manual:

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...nual-help/50817-service-manual-downloads.html

it sounds like he's got it all hacked to hell and back, and no telling what all is fried ??!!..lol.

It's not all hacked up, I tested the neutral safety switch, it didn't have a clean current. I've been a mechanic for 30+ years but electrical isn't my strong suit and that's why I am searching for help not critisizism. So is there anyone with ideas that can help me?

then you should have figured out why you were not getting current to the neutral switch ???. the neutral wire that leads to the neutral switch is always hot from ignition switch. if electrical is not your strong suit ?, then you should not have '' bypassed '' anything !, what you should have done is read the service manual, and figured out WHY your not getting power to the switch ?. your getting criticism because you just went in blind, thats what I call just a dumb move bro.

 

[shadetree]

i'll make this simple: power goes from battery, through fuses, to the ignition switch, out of ignition switch, back through harness, from the harness, it goes to the neutral switch while the wire is hot, when the transmission is in neutral, this wire is grounded, which means this turns the green light on at the dash. when you move from neutral to say 1st ?, this ungrounds the switch, now the light goes off because its no longer grounded .

 

[shadetree]

if for some reason you never get the green light to come on when you turn the key on ?, then you either have a bad power source from battery to ignition ?, battery to ground ?, blown fuse ?, bad wire harness ?, or your neutral switch is bad ?. bad ignition switch ?. one of these is your problem.

 

[Goober]

I have been 2 days straight trying to figure out what is keeping my 1995 Honda Fourtrax 300 from not getting any electrical power. It has no lights on the handlebars, no headlights, no brake or taillights I have used a jumper on the diode, rewired the safety switch(and the neutral light will not illuminate when it is grounded). I have put hot directly to the neutral switch light and it will light up for just a second and go off. I have replaced the solenoid, replaced the key ignition switch last year. Both wires on the starter are testing as grounds, that doesn't seem to be right, is it? the fuse on the red wire under the seat is good, it does have power to the key switch as well. The starter will turn over by jumping the solenoid. It will not start by kick starting it either. I sure hope someone can help! Thanks in advance!

Is the neutral or oil light coming on and then going out momentarily? Should be the oil light behaving thst way.
Could be the leads for those two sensors are switched?
I would perform the ignition diagnostics troubleshooting Chapter 20

 

[bmw20017]

Ok thank you all, I'll figure it out.

 

[Goober]

Ok thank you all, I'll figure it out.

Swap the sensor leads on your oil and neutral switches —behind the cover plate on the right side case.

 

[shadetree]

when goober says to swap the connectors at the switch ^^^^, check to make sure your connectors are on right switch by looking at the end of the wires at the boot, both of these have the letters N and R stamped on them, all you need to do is put the N on neutral, and R to reverse. if you have a 12 volt dc test light ?, you can use this to check to make sure your getting 12 volts ( power ) on each connector before you plug them into the switches.

 

[shadetree]

Ok thank you all, I'll figure it out.

Swap the sensor leads on your oil and neutral switches –behind the cover plate on the right side case.

hate to break it to ya bro ?..but this is almost impossible to do !. reason: the oil switch ( connector ) is separate from the neutral and reverse switches. the oil temp switch ( sensor ) is far away from the neutral and reverse switches.

 

[bmw20017]

Ok thank you all, I'll figure it out.

Swap the sensor leads on your oil and neutral switches –behind the cover plate on the right side case.

hate to break it to ya bro ?..but this is almost impossible to do !. reason: the oil switch ( connector ) is separate from the neutral and reverse switches. the oil temp switch ( sensor ) is far away from the neutral and reverse switches.

Goes to show what you know, they're all three together (neutral safety, reverse and the oil temp sensor) all under the same cover and with all the same connectors, bro

 

[bmw20017]

when goober says to swap the connectors at the switch ^^^^, check to make sure your connectors are on right switch by looking at the end of the wires at the boot, both of these have the letters N and R stamped on them, all you need to do is put the N on neutral, and R to reverse. if you have a 12 volt dc test light ?, you can use this to check to make sure your getting 12 volts ( power ) on each connector before you plug them into the switches.

Yeah I tried that as well but I'm not getting any power to anything past the key switch, I have found the the white/pink wire under the seat that goes to the key switch, was broken, now fixed and the neutral safety switch, between the switch and the plug under the seat wasn't getting a strong signal so I changed it out. My question now is, is there a way to go around the key switch to be sure that it is what is wrong with it?