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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 Honda Fourtrax 350 es. Lately I have been having some issues with the brakes. It is getting too sketchy to ride it.

So I only had rear brakes on my bike(one of the front brake lines broke and all the brake fluid leaked out so I have no Front brakes) My problem started a little while after I bought the bike. The brakes wouldn't stop me as quickly as the did when I bought it. They kept getting worse so when my u-joint broke and the bike went into the shop,i mentioned that the brakes weren't that good so the guys there must've tightened the wingnuts on the rear brakes because that fixed the problem was fixed when i got it back.

After a while the brakes got bad again so i was messing around with them and found the wingnuts everyone was talking about and tightened them. This fixed the problem for a bit then I had to tighten them again and again and again until i cant tighten them anymore.

I need some help. I have tightened the wingnuts that everyone talks about all the way in and my brakes don't work anymore.

I know that my rear brakes are good because you can roll the atv and then push on the rear brake assembly where the cables attach to and it stops the atv on a dime.

I researched online and heard you should oil your brake cables. I looked up a proper video and did exactly what they said to do. The brakes still don't work for me.

When i had the brake cables off i inspected them and they look perfectly fine just a little dirty so I don't think I need to replace them

I have tried everything that I have heard of working and am desperately in need of some help from someone who knows what they are talking about. Thanks everyone in advance:)
 

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from the sounds of it ^^^ ?, you need new front brake lines, front brake shoes. hand to rear brake cable could be the wrong length ?, if the foot brake works the rear, but the hand to rear cable is maxed out ?, then this tells me the cable is wrong. it's best to buy all new parts, and start from scratch. don't half azz it !. or your not going to have brakes !.
 

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PSN can fix you up with a good used set of front brake lines cheap, or you can buy new OEMs anywhere. You'll probably need new brake shoes in the rear along with new hub seals, minimum. Get a copy of the service manual and look up part numbers on Partzilla to get you started. Welcome to the forums!
i wanted to add a bit though i may be wrong. you should see if the rear break drum is wore out. check the specs. if so, you might be wanting to go to disk. aint much more money, last longer.
2nd time ive posted sumpen like that tonight.:grin
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
you say i should check to see if my rear drum is wore out. how should i go about doing it?

I dont think it is wore out cause they still work perfectly if i push on the assembly where the brake cables attach to at the back of the bike but i might as well check
 

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you say i should check to see if my rear drum is wore out. how should i go about doing it?

I dont think it is wore out cause they still work perfectly if i push on the assembly where the brake cables attach to at the back of the bike but i might as well check
what he meant was, is mic the drum, compare the measurements to the service manual specs, and see if its within wear limit ?, if its worn to much ?, new brake shoes is not going to solve your brake problem.
 

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sometimes you can reindex the brake arm on the brake cam shaft to achieve more adjustment
yep, seen this and done this, but its just a band-aid fix, everyone should know the correct way would be to replace the drum, but those drums don't come cheap !..lol.
 
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sometimes you can reindex the brake arm on the brake cam shaft to achieve more adjustment
Yep, back in the day when I was broke ( and cheap lol) I would do this trick. But remember that the angle is way off on the cam at this point. I will often replace the brake cam when doing brake shoes because they wear fast and give a good brake feel when replaced with new shoes.
 

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Put some 420 disc brakes on the front and call it good. Then you don't have to mess with the drums.
I agree. The rear drum brake works, but discs are better. Couple that with you not having front brakes, and using one, sole, drum brake to stop the machine- it sounds like you are either wearing them out, or stretching the cable. Fix the front brakes, at least, or convert them to discs. Then, fix the rear brakes, and you will have a quick stopping, upgraded machine.
 

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sometimes you can reindex the brake arm on the brake cam shaft to achieve more adjustment
how do you do this trick? I'm not looking for reliability rn I just want some brakes and not have to spend much
LOL reliability is when a tree jumps out in front of you and you don’t have to replace your teeth cuz your binder lever worked. That’s $ in the bank right there.
 

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those rear break shoes are fixed on 1 side, expand on the other. they dont ware even. if the drum is shot, you only got a little bit of room to cheat, when you re-index the brake cam shaft.
my front brakes,shoes, had a problem, because moisture got in the master cylinder. it left crud in the piston area, and i would have to take that apart clean out the crud an bleed the front brakes.
later i found out that on both sides,, 1 of 2 slave cylinders had froze up, making adjusting near impossible, if not impossible.
water seems to be the enemy.
how easy do your rear cables move, when the adjustment wing nuts are removed?
just some food for thought. //Ed
 
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