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Some are the same yes, but for example a 300 fourtrax has 3, 88 to 93, 94 to 97 & 98 to 00. Just make sure you buy the cdi for your year machine.
Gotcha so i guess 88-93 300 fourtrax is what i woud get?..
If your machine was a 300 yes that would be correct. You need 250x 87 to ?.
Find out when your model was made to and buy the cdi for your year and model.
 

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Here's a Ricks on eBay, I'd call Ricks and quote the item number though just to make sure it's not a Chinese copy being sold under the name Ricks.

Ricks Electric Hot Shot CDI Box Honda TRX250X 87-88 TRX250X 91-92 | eBay
Yea i just looked at his webpage and its the same one.. ill probably order through his website..
Yes, so would I. I nearly bought a hotshot off eBay for 98to00 for my trx300fw, turns out Ricks doesn't make a hotshot for 98-00!!
eBay scammers, absolute nightmare!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Here's a Ricks on eBay, I'd call Ricks and quote the item number though just to make sure it's not a Chinese copy being sold under the name Ricks.

Ricks Electric Hot Shot CDI Box Honda TRX250X 87-88 TRX250X 91-92 | eBay
Yea i just looked at his webpage and its the same one.. ill probably order through his website..
Yes, so would I. I nearly bought a hotshot off eBay for 98to00 for my trx300fw, turns out Ricks doesn't make a hotshot for 98-00!!
eBay scammers, absolute nightmare!
Nice thanks for the heads up.. im in the process of cleaning my garage so i have room to build my 4x8 harbor freight trailer..
 

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Might just need some routine maintenance caught up... I'd go over the wiring harness real good after everything else is caught up, making sure each plug fits with a "snap" and is sealed tight with silicone grease.

You may not need to spend money on a CDI... you haven't even diagnosed it yet.

Glad ya got it running easily. Keep us updated if ya can...
 

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Might just need some routine maintenance caught up... I'd go over the wiring harness real good after everything else is caught up, making sure each plug fits with a "snap" and is sealed tight with silicone grease.

You may not need to spend money on a CDI... you haven't even diagnosed it yet.

Glad ya got it running easily. Keep us updated if ya can...
Yea im going to the local atv shop buy oil/fliter, spark plug. i have apple cider vingar soaking in the tank over night to try clean up the rust.. i will keep you guys updated..
 

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I use distilled vinegar and salt solution all the time for derusting. That tank will require several days in the bath (probably 5 days minimum) with the tank completely full (no air in it anywhere!) of vinegar. Don't forget about the 20 minute acetic acid neutralization step with a box of baking soda and warm water completely filling the tank when you empty out the acid... else it'll be totally junk a couple days later...

Hope you can save it, keep us updated if ya can...
 

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I use distilled vinegar and salt solution all the time for derusting. That tank will require several days in the bath (probably 5 days minimum) with the tank completely full (no air in it anywhere!) of vinegar. Don't forget about the 20 minute acetic acid neutralization step with a box of baking soda and warm water completely filling the tank when you empty out the acid... else it'll be totally junk a couple days later...

Hope you can save it, keep us updated if ya can...
I have nothing but time.. lol.. so if i understand you.. after 5 days or so fill with warm water/baking soda?
 

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Ricks electrics are a reputable brand for aftermarket CDI's, they offer standard spec replacements and the Hot Shot series. Good reviews and a great company to deal with.
I've seen more bad c.d.i's from them than good ?. i'd put my money on oem unless there wasn't a choice ?, as in, NLA ?!. oem is best in my book.
Oh okay, I stand corrected then lol. The main reason I mention them is their communication with the customer is first class, they had a lot of time for me when I was in talks with them. They do offer a no hassle returns policy as well I beleive.
A BIG issue they were having was Chinese CDI's being sold on eBay as 'Ricks' CDI's, I nearly fell for that exact mistake. When I looked there were 6 so called ricks on eBay, when I emailed Ricks direct they only had 1 cdi for sale on eBay!
So if anybody buys from them I would certainly contact Ricks thought they're website rather than eBay.

Maybe this could be the bad units you've heard about shady? Dodgy Chinese junk sold under Ricks name maybe?
very well could be !. those folks on ebay think everyone is about as sharp as a butter knife ?!..lol. I do my homework on all sellers on ebay before I make a purchase !.
 

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...I have nothing but time.. lol.. so if i understand you.. after 5 days or so fill with warm water/baking soda?
Yeah basically... the acid reaction has to be neutralized at some point, else it will continue until there is nothing left to the fuel tank to attack. You'll need to protect the paint on the outside of the tank from the vinegar too, else it may loosen and begin to come off after several days of exposure to the acid. The tank has to be filled completely, but keep it off the paint...

First off, Apple cider Vinegar is not the best option. You need to buy Distilled white vinegar with at least 5% acetic acid content. If you can get it in higher concentrations for a good price it will work faster and trim some time off the process, but 5% solution is sufficient for everything you'll use it for. ALWAYS mix in 1/2 to 3/4 cup of ordinary table salt per each gallon of distilled white vinegar you use for the bath. It has to be inside a plastic container as well if you are derusting ordinary parts, else the acetic acid may react with your holding bucket or tub.

For now, you can finish this fuel tank up using the apple cider vinegar that you got in there, but in the future stick with Distilled white only, to avoid residue buildup and associated apple cider contamination of your parts.... its difficult to repaint parts with cider goo in the metal. I would dump out that vinegar you have in the tank right now and mix the proper amount of salt in with it really good until its completely dissolved, then fill that tank back up completely to the fuel cap rim with your apple cider vinegar/salt solution and maintain that completely full level until its ready for baking soda.

Your tank is pretty rusty... drawing from my experience with this stuff, I would recommend you let it soak in the mixed up solution for five complete days, minimum. Six or seven days may be a better choice... since you cannot reach most of the rusty surface area to brush off rust, more time will be needed than if you were to brush those surfaces clean after the first two days have passed. You must get all the rust or it will come right back quickly. Keep the solution warm if you can... room temps of 70+ degrees are best, and don't get excessive with heat. The process requires time and patience, not brute force. Don't fuss with it at all... just let it be until its time for neutralization. You can speed the rust removal if you use some sort of aggregate in the tank, shaking it around every couple days or so, but be careful if you do this... you can knock the factory paint off the outside of your tank if you get too aggressive.

Once the required amount of time has passed you'll need to mix up enough baking soda and warm water in a plastic bucket to completely refill the soon-to-be-emptied-out fuel tank. I generally mix one full box of baking soda per each 1.5 gallons of warm water. So for example: if your tank holds 2.8 gallons completely full to the rim, mix up at least 3 gallons of baking soda solution, requiring two full boxes of baking soda.

Once the baking soda is well mixed, dump the vinegar solution out of the tank and rinse it out with clean water. Dump it... then fill the tank to the rim with the baking soda solution and wait. Since you are dealing with a closed tank with no access to the interior you won't be able to scrub it... so just wait. After 20 minutes or so dump about half of the baking soda water out and pour about 2 lbs of pea gravel (or other small stuff...marbles, BBs or whatever ya got) in the tank and slosh that junk around until all the loose rust is knocked off the steel in there. Be careful about getting too aggressive with the aggregate in there... if you shake it too hard you'll risk knocking the paint off of the outside of the tank... Then dump that all out and rinse with clean water until its coming out clean... then either blow it out good with some clean rags stuffed in there or put some clean rags on the end of a wire to dry it good. Once dry, pour a quart of 50-1 premix ratio of gas and oil in it and shake it well before dumping that out. Then the tank should be ready to put back together and back on the machine.

Some of my work with vinegar and salt derusting is HERE, and HERE...
 

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what I do with my tanks , I bring it to the local radiator shop , he soaks it in the cleaning tank and it comes out with out any rust or paint for that matter on the tank ,if there is a lot of rust in it then he cuts a small window in the bottom of the tank , the window helps him to get all the flakes out , he then welds up the plate and lines the tank with some red colored liner , he charges $90 for the job , well worth it ----I paint the tank with self ething primer and Rustoleum Sunrise red
 

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...I have nothing but time.. lol.. so if i understand you.. after 5 days or so fill with warm water/baking soda?
Yeah basically... the acid reaction has to be neutralized at some point, else it will continue until there is nothing left to the fuel tank to attack. You'll need to protect the paint on the outside of the tank from the vinegar too, else it may loosen and begin to come off after several days of exposure to the acid. The tank has to be filled completely, but keep it off the paint...

First off, Apple cider Vinegar is not the best option. You need to buy Distilled white vinegar with at least 5% acetic acid content. If you can get it in higher concentrations for a good price it will work faster and trim some time off the process, but 5% solution is sufficient for everything you'll use it for. ALWAYS mix in 1/2 to 3/4 cup of ordinary table salt per each gallon of distilled white vinegar you use for the bath. It has to be inside a plastic container as well if you are derusting ordinary parts, else the acetic acid may react with your holding bucket or tub.

For now, you can finish this fuel tank up using the apple cider vinegar that you got in there, but in the future stick with Distilled white only, to avoid residue buildup and associated apple cider contamination of your parts.... its difficult to repaint parts with cider goo in the metal. I would dump out that vinegar you have in the tank right now and mix the proper amount of salt in with it really good until its completely dissolved, then fill that tank back up completely to the fuel cap rim with your apple cider vinegar/salt solution and maintain that completely full level until its ready for baking soda.

Your tank is pretty rusty... drawing from my experience with this stuff, I would recommend you let it soak in the mixed up solution for five complete days, minimum. Six or seven days may be a better choice... since you cannot reach most of the rusty surface area to brush off rust, more time will be needed than if you were to brush those surfaces clean after the first two days have passed. You must get all the rust or it will come right back quickly. Keep the solution warm if you can... room temps of 70+ degrees are best, and don't get excessive with heat. The process requires time and patience, not brute force. Don't fuss with it at all... just let it be until its time for neutralization. You can speed the rust removal if you use some sort of aggregate in the tank, shaking it around every couple days or so, but be careful if you do this... you can knock the factory paint off the outside of your tank if you get too aggressive.

Once the required amount of time has passed you'll need to mix up enough baking soda and warm water in a plastic bucket to completely refill the soon-to-be-emptied-out fuel tank. I generally mix one full box of baking soda per each 1.5 gallons of warm water. So for example: if your tank holds 2.8 gallons completely full to the rim, mix up at least 3 gallons of baking soda solution, requiring two full boxes of baking soda.

Once the baking soda is well mixed, dump the vinegar solution out of the tank and rinse it out with clean water. Dump it... then fill the tank to the rim with the baking soda solution and wait. Since you are dealing with a closed tank with no access to the interior you won't be able to scrub it... so just wait. After 20 minutes or so dump about half of the baking soda water out and pour about 2 lbs of pea gravel (or other small stuff...marbles, BBs or whatever ya got) in the tank and slosh that junk around until all the loose rust is knocked off the steel in there. Be careful about getting too aggressive with the aggregate in there... if you shake it too hard you'll risk knocking the paint off of the outside of the tank... Then dump that all out and rinse with clean water until its coming out clean... then either blow it out good with some clean rags stuffed in there or put some clean rags on the end of a wire to dry it good. Once dry, pour a quart of 50-1 premix ratio of gas and oil in it and shake it well before dumping that out. Then the tank should be ready to put back together and back on the machine.

Some of my work with vinegar and salt derusting is HERE, and HERE...
STICKY ALERT!!

Great work @retro, your explanations in posts are first class.

I have an 85 trx250a tank that I keep looking at, it's been by the sea and the tank as you can imagine is in a right state. I'm going to give this a try in the next day or two.
 

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Thanks @SamUK

If you aren't concerned about saving the exterior paint finish on your tank, you can get the job done quicker and easier by adding enough small junk to the mix to knock off a lot of that rust early in the process and again about halfway through its' bath, and then dunk the entire tank in the solution. Saving the finish on the outside of the tank means ya gotta work more carefully, wiping off any vinegar solution that gets on the paint with baking soda water... yet keeping the tank completely full to the rim. Its a juggling act in a way... :)

The vinegar/salt method really works great even on heavily rusted parts, its just important that air exposure is not allowed on any of the bare steel during the process. Which means ya gotta be prepared for each step, work fast and thorough while keeping the parts wet as you work... This can be a big challenge.

Hope to see your old tank clean and shiny inside soon!
 

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Thanks for all the input.. after i left it set for couple more day ill do the vingar/salt next.. hopeing the apple cider vingar dose most of its job..
ps i actually have the rim taped off right now
 

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something I tried was the electrolysis process , I filled the tank with baking soda /water solution , made a plastic cap with a hole drilled down the middle , put a 5/8 all thread rod thru the hole with a nut on each side , hooked a 2 amp battery charger with negative to the tank and positive to the rod , it ate the rust away too good , or the tank was too bad , cause it ate holes thru the tank and all the solution leaked out , the threaded rod was covered with rust , I will never tried that again , but I think it would work good on a tank that wasn't so badly rust as the one I tried it on , there are u-tube vides on it
 

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something I tried was the electrolysis process , I filled the tank with baking soda /water solution , made a plastic cap with a hole drilled down the middle , put a 5/8 all thread rod thru the hole with a nut on each side , hooked a 2 amp battery charger with negative to the tank and positive to the rod , it ate the rust away too good , or the tank was too bad , cause it ate holes thru the tank and all the solution leaked out , the threaded rod was covered with rust , I will never tried that again , but I think it would work good on a tank that wasn't so badly rust as the one I tried it on , there are u-tube vides on it
With you guys using baking soda.. do you get the small box (qty?) or one large box and just dump it all in the take with water?
I had the cap seting in the apple cider vingar and the rust just scraped off and it looked like new.. with i had a picture
 
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