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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys i am new here and somewhat new to the atv world. i grew up with dirbikes and this is my first 4 wheeler. i am 32yrs old..its i think a 1998 fourtrax 4x4 with metal gas tank. i just got this 4wheeler this weekend. it needs some work done on the brakes and other issues. does not burn oil and no smoke unless right at start up and goes away quickly.

- the back brake petal goes down with very little resistance and of course doesnt stop the bike.

-the front brakes are somewhat similar but not as bad.

-the reverse lever is loose (loose cable, not tight)

- the front lights leak water (condensation and the other just gathers water) will the light housings need to be replaced?

- small leak at the top of the head near some kind of lever. its not a bad leak. located on the right side top of the motor.

any tips, ideas or links to schematics (the more elementary the better LOL).

thanks again fellas!
mike
 

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Later in the day the site will start booming with more members, you will get some good feedback in a while!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Later in the day the site will start booming with more members, you will get some good feedback in a while!!!
thats fine i understand. thanks for the quick reply.

i am curious on what that "lever" is for at the top of the motor on the right side. i think thats where the leak is but not too sure. in the next day or two i am going to take the plastic off so i can get to the cables and etc.
 

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Maybe some kind of decompression lever?!?!? I'm not to smart when it comes to the non-sport quad stuff.
 

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Ok, first of all, the back brakes. The back brakes have an adjustment at the back where the cable hooks to the lever on the brake housing. It should be a wing nut type thing on the end of the cable. There are two cables, one is for the brake pedal and the other is for the left front hand brake/lever. There's a place for a small wrench to hold the cable while you turn the wing nut type thing. If you don't hold this nut, the cable will twist and probably break and then you will have to replace the cable. While in neutral, adjust the cable up a little at a time, while pushing the 4-wheeler back and forth a little to make sure you don't get the brakes too tight. If you feel it start trying to hold the 4-wheeler when you are pushing it, back the adjuster back off just a bit, until it rolls free. On the other hand, I'll bet your brakes are wore out to the point where they can't be adjusted anymore. Brakes on these models usually don't last long if you ride through much mud and water. The brakes are sealed, but the gaskets usually end up letting mud and water through, anyway, and then it is trapped in there. There is a drain plug in the bottom of the brake housing that you can loosen occasionally to let water and mud run out. It is hard to see for the skid plate on the bottom of the housing. When you do replace the rear brakes with new ones, the new ones will stop you, but they won't be great. You will have to push the brake pedal pretty hard. There isn't much you can do about it. They were like this when they were new.

The front brakes may need to be adjusted up and bled.

If you are talking about the front reverse lever/parking brake handle(this lever works both the back brakes and the reverse. You have to push the red button down to engage the reverse cable.), there is an adjustment at the same place as you adjust the back brakes. There are two cables back there. On is for the back brakes(foot brake pedal), the other is for the hand brake lever(parking brake). When you adjust this cable, it will tighten the left hand lever back up. I think this is what you are talking about as they all do this and even after you adjust it tight, in a few days it will be back like this again. I just got used to it.

As far as the lights getting water in them, make sure the rubber boots that go over where the socket goes in the lens, are in place and tight. They will only go on right one way, there is a notch it has to fit in. The notch is at the top. This is may be hard to understand, unless you are looking at the boot and the back of the lens where the bulb goes in. If this is not your problem, your lens might be cracked somewhere. If it is, dry the water out some way and put some silicone over the crack.

The lever at the top of the head is a decompression lever. Pushing this lever down, while tying to start with the kicker, will make it kick over a little easier. I don't really think they even needed to put one of these on a 300, as they kick over easy, anyway. There is a seal where the decompression lever shaft comes through the head. This could be leaking or it could be the round black rubber plug beside it, between the valve cover and the head. Both of these items tend to start leaking after they get a little age on them. I wouldn't worry about it too much, unless they are leaking bad. Most of the time, they just leak enough to get your engine a little oily. If you don't like oil on you engine, then you will have to replace one or both, depending on which is leaking. If you don't replace them, just keep an eye on your oil level.

If you are new to repairing ATVs, it would probably be a good ideal to get a repair manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
some questions.

i mixed some seafoam in the gas tank and will continue to do so for a few months to help clean the insides. as far as something else what can i do? spray carb clean in the intake while running? (keep in mind i know to change the oil after most of this stuff like in a truck) can i put seafoam in the spark plug hole and allow it to soak awhile, crank and burn it out? the reason why i want to do this is bc the bike has been sitting around. the guy that owned it before me used nothing but 93 fuel according to him but he only used it during hunting season. as of right now its not bad enough to take the carb off and go that route. ill tackle that one day later.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, first of all, the back brakes. The back brakes have an adjustment at the back where the cable hooks to the lever on the brake housing. It should be a wing nut type thing on the end of the cable. There are two cables, one is for the brake pedal and the other is for the left front hand brake/lever. There's a place for a small wrench to hold the cable while you turn the wing nut type thing. If you don't hold this nut, the cable will twist and probably break and then you will have to replace the cable. While in neutral, adjust the cable up a little at a time, while pushing the 4-wheeler back and forth a little to make sure you don't get the brakes too tight. If you feel it start trying to hold the 4-wheeler when you are pushing it, back the adjuster back off just a bit, until it rolls free. On the other hand, I'll bet your brakes are wore out to the point where they can't be adjusted anymore. Brakes on these models usually don't last long if you ride through much mud and water. The brakes are sealed, but the gaskets usually end up letting mud and water through, anyway, and then it is trapped in there. There is a drain plug in the bottom of the brake housing that you can loosen occasionally to let water and mud run out. It is hard to see for the skid plate on the bottom of the housing. When you do replace the rear brakes with new ones, the new ones will stop you, but they won't be great. You will have to push the brake pedal pretty hard. There isn't much you can do about it. They were like this when they were new.

The front brakes may need to be adjusted up and bled.

If you are talking about the front reverse lever/parking brake handle(this lever works both the back brakes and the reverse. You have to push the red button down to engage the reverse cable.), there is an adjustment at the same place as you adjust the back brakes. There are two cables back there. On is for the back brakes(foot brake pedal), the other is for the hand brake lever(parking brake). When you adjust this cable, it will tighten the left hand lever back up. I think this is what you are talking about as they all do this and even after you adjust it tight, in a few days it will be back like this again. I just got used to it.

As far as the lights getting water in them, make sure the rubber boots that go over where the socket goes in the lens, are in place and tight. They will only go on right one way, there is a notch it has to fit in. The notch is at the top. This is may be hard to understand, unless you are looking at the boot and the back of the lens where the bulb goes in. If this is not your problem, your lens might be cracked somewhere. If it is, dry the water out some way and put some silicone over the crack.

The lever at the top of the head is a decompression lever. Pushing this lever down, while tying to start with the kicker, will make it kick over a little easier. I don't really think they even needed to put one of these on a 300, as they kick over easy, anyway. There is a seal where the decompression lever shaft comes through the head. This could be leaking or it could be the round black rubber plug beside it, between the valve cover and the head. Both of these items tend to start leaking after they get a little age on them. I wouldn't worry about it too much, unless they are leaking bad. Most of the time, they just leak enough to get your engine a little oily. If you don't like oil on you engine, then you will have to replace one or both, depending on which is leaking. If you don't replace them, just keep an eye on your oil level.

If you are new to repairing ATVs, it would probably be a good ideal to get a repair manual.
thats good info there. thanks bud

as for the leak yeah its from one or the other. the head gasket itself doesnt appear to be leaking. i will take brake cleaner and scrub the area good so i can tell where the leak is coming from

as for the brakes. the metal housing thing that the cables are in (located over the back drum) is broke on the top one. (i assume that one leads to the left hand brake) do i need to replace it or can i use zip strips just to keep it from wiggling around?. i may go ahead and take the back brake drum off to clean it out same goes for the front as well. that way i can see if i need new brakes and use brake cleaner to clean them out well.. thats a shame that the back brakes even when replaced are not worth a hoot. sux.

yes i need a manual. i have never worked on a 4 wheeler but i do have some walking sense. not much :)

the lights i just assume i need to take off and inspect pretty good.. if the rubber piece is cracked to i have to get a new light housing? or could i just use some silicon to seal up good?

thanks for the replies big guy its appreciated
 

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I don't really know about using Seafoam in the spark plug hole. Maybe someone else will know about that.

I doubt the zip strips would hold the brake cable tight enough. You can try it, but I wouldn't look for it to work. Be careful, if it don't hold, you won't have any brakes, unless you have good front brakes. Also, it might come loose when you need it the most.

As far as the light lens or boot, you should be able to use silicone. Silicone is some good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't really know about using Seafoam in the spark plug hole. Maybe someone else will know about that.

I doubt the zip strips would hold the brake cable tight enough. You can try it, but I wouldn't look for it to work. Be careful, if it don't hold, you won't have any brakes, unless you have good front brakes. Also, it might come loose when you need it the most.

As far as the light lens or boot, you should be able to use silicone. Silicone is some good stuff.
lol the zip was just a redneck idea. so one can assume to go ahead and replace that part where its broke to hold the cable? its located between the rear drum and rear gear box.
 

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Use pipe clamps.There adjustable and steel.llol
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Use pipe clamps.There adjustable and steel.llol
lol they wont hold after being bumped around on the trails and creeks. i suppose ill have to buy a new part but i dont know what its called.

brake arm maybe? its where the cables lock into at the back of the bike
 

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Sorry I can't do a direct link.Look your quad up there.You'll have a parts fiche.And look under rear brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry I can't do a direct link.Look your quad up there.You'll have a parts fiche.And look under rear brake.
i did and i didnt see it. i am almost sure its called rear brake arm. the top part broke where the cable is suppose to set in so you can adjust. it just dangles now
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Is this what you're looking for? #5 in the diagram? Rear brake panel. It's made out of aluminum. This one is the rear brake panel set. It comes with bearings and the studs to bolt the axle housing on with.

Rivamotorsports.com's 1998 Honda ATV TRX300FW 4X4 Parts List
its either that or #9. its where the cables go through with the wing nuts in the back. it holds the cables. there are 2 cables the bottom part is fine but the top part has broken off partially and the cable cannot be held anymore. i thought the part i was talking about was one piece but from the looks of the diagram i think its #9. the arm... i could be wrong i am a noob lol..

thanks guys for the replies and help its appreciated.
 

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Oh, are you talking about the piece that the cable pulls to actuate the brakes? I thought you were talking about the part that holds the cable. Yeah, if you're talking about the piece that moves and is clamped onto a shaft with one bolt, then it would be the brake arm.(#9)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oh, are you talking about the piece that the cable pulls to actuate the brakes? I thought you were talking about the part that holds the cable. Yeah, if you're talking about the piece that moves and is clamped onto a shaft with one bolt, then it would be the brake arm.(#9)
i believe that is right.
 
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