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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. I have a 2007 trx420 that the key was left on (with the atv in gear and the kill switch off) for weeks and ran the battery completely dead.I bought a new battery and the bike will not start.It is not getting fire to the spark plug.Also it is steady flashing on the pod and will not shift gears,i had to use the shift tool to get it into neutral.Before the battery went dead it ran fine and has been in the garage ever since.
I would greatly appreciate some help with this issue...
 

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Hey Papa, welcome to the family I'm a sport quad guy myself but just wanted to say hi. Someone will get you going again shortly!!!
 

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Are you sure you got the battery connections nice and tight? Is there any pattern to the flashes?

Rob
 

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Welcome to the forums. If the gear position indicator is flashing when you turn the key on, you need to retrieve the trouble codes that have been stored. I don't have a repair manual for the Rancher 420, so I don't know the procedure. I would recommend getting a repair manual.
 

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Welcome to the forums! agreed with the above.
 

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Howdy Papa, welcome to the forum!

The owners manual for my 2008 Rancher states that if you get a flashing gear position indicator it means that the "transmission is not shifted into gear properly". It proceeds to instruct you to turn the ignition switch off then back on (which I'm sure you've done by now) to clear this.

But I'm kinda confused after that. Because if you are able to turn the motor over (and verify that no spark is present at the spark plug), then the bike should think that it's in neutral (no neutral, no cranking). And if the bike thinks that it is in neutral and allows the engine to crank then the primary ignition system should provide spark to the plug.

I would suggest that you do everything that you can to get the gear position indicator to stop flashing and depict the actual gear position, which MUST be neutral. At least after that then you will have an electronic control system that is receiving what it is supposed to.

After that I would look at your kill switch. Because it may be possible to actually crank your starter, turning your engine over, but not enabling your primary ignition system if your kill switch is in the off position (or not in the fully ON position).

Since your bike ran well before the battery died I would assume that nothing bad has happened. Keep it simple and don't pay to replace any parts until you can verify that you are indeed in neutral and your kill switch is not preventing you from getting spark.

Good luck,
Booma
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone

I did make sure battery is fully charged and tight.I used the shift tool to go through all gears and back to neutral,it is definitely in neutral and engine turns over as it should.The kill switch is in the center position. I do not know how to retrieve trouble codes.I have the manual but still cant find how to retrieve codes,kind of hard to know where to look. Everything seems as it should except for the fact that it will not start.
 

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I have the manual but still cant find how to retrieve codes,kind of hard to know where to look.
In most manuals, it's listed under the ES/electric shift chapter.
 

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does it have fuel and is the fuel turned on ? lol just a thought oh also smell the fuel to see if it smells bad
 

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He said it wasn't getting fire to the sparkplug. I've heard that leaving the key on for long periods of time can damage the CDI. I don't know if this is true or not, though. I've never actually seen it happen. I have left my key on for periods as long as 1 day before and it didn't happen to me, so that might not even be true. Just a thought.
 

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never know could be possible it could be many different things
 

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I did make sure battery is fully charged and tight.I used the shift tool to go through all gears and back to neutral,it is definitely in neutral and engine turns over as it should.The kill switch is in the center position. I do not know how to retrieve trouble codes.I have the manual but still cant find how to retrieve codes,kind of hard to know where to look. Everything seems as it should except for the fact that it will not start.
There are long blinks and short blinks. A long blink is worth the same as 10 short blinks. So for example if you had 2 long blinks followed by 5 short blinks, you would have a code 25. Page 6-18 lists the codes.

Rob
 

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Papa,

My shop manual is for the 2008 models so I'm not sure how applicable this may be, but here goes.

If you are getting a constant flashing gear position and your MIL lamp (FI lamp) and engine coolant temp lamp are off and you cannot start the engine then then you need to check the PCM power/ground line. The procedure requires that you pull the PCM's 33P gray connector (under the rear fender cover) and measure for ground on pins B10, B13 and B22. These are all green wires going into the plug. As you are looking at the gray connector face the pin in the upper right hand corner is B1, increasing as you go to the left (top row goes from B1 to B11). The second row goes from right to left B12 through B22, etc.

After checking for grounds then look at pin B1 (black and red wire in this
slot) for battery voltage.

After that reconnect the gray connector and remove the black 33P connector. Following the same numbering sequence (except all of these pins are A) find pin A4 ( top row, fourth from the right). This wire is black and white and will have battery voltage whenever the kill switch is on (center) and the key is on.

If all of those items are good then you probably have a PCM problem. Not necessarily a bad PCM module but maybe a loose wire, etc.

This could become a complicated troubleshooting effort. Since your bike is under warranty I would suggest that you haul it back to them and have the dealer fix it. When they are done ask them to explain exactly what was wrong and point out where the bad components/wiring were at so you know if this comes back.

Good luck,
Booma
 

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This could become a complicated troubleshooting effort. Since your bike is under warranty I would suggest that you haul it back to them and have the dealer fix it. When they are done ask them to explain exactly what was wrong and point out where the bad components/wiring were at so you know if this comes back.
Yeah, I agree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the info,I will check voltages. I do not think it is still under warrenty as it is a 2007 model and I believe the warrenty is only 1 year.
 

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Don't know why I assumed it was under warranty. If not and if the ground and voltage checks to the PCM are good let us know. We can continue this troubleshooting effort here or I can scan the pertinent pages out of the (2008) shop manual for you to follow as needed and email them to you (of course if it's done here everyone can learn a little from your experience).

Good luck,
Booma
 
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