[KBacon]

I recently joined the forum after purchasing a 2012 Honda Rancher ES 4x4...

And yesterday had a guy that didn't want this old '99 Foreman 450 ES.. so he let me have it. It's pretty rusty... he must have left it outside!!! But it only has 320 miles on it.. it starts right up (only in N).. and currently shifts just fine. But he did state that he has had shifting issues w/ it. So for the price... I can't really complain. I figured that it would be a nice little backup/beater/2nd rider..

What are some things that I should look out for on this ATV?

Is the starting only in N normal.. or something that needs fixed?

Read lots of issues w/ the ES on these older Foremans... but read that there is an emergency shift lever to change gears if the ES stops working? I believe I saw this tool in the rear compartment w/ the rest of the tool kit.

 

[alloutdoors]

I suspect, but someone here will know, the unit likely only starts in neutral. When you say a "shifting" problem, what exactly is the unit doing? I know from experience the ES models must have a strong battery to shift, so if it is weak it will not shift, so it may be that simple. If the battery is good then the angle sensor may be bad. Regardless, I would change the oil and replace it with a high grade wet clutch approved oil.

 

[KBacon]

I know some of the other Honda's only start in N.. but others will start in gear... so just checking...

The guy said that it didn't want to change gears... but when we started it up to take off the trailer it shifted just fine...

I plan to change all fluids and start looking things over more closely.. but I will have to wait until after hunting season when I have some more "free time"...

 

[alloutdoors]

I know some of the other Honda's only start in N.. but others will start in gear... so just checking...

The guy said that it didn't want to change gears... but when we started it up to take off the trailer it shifted just fine...

I plan to change all fluids and start looking things over more closely.. but I will have to wait until after hunting season when I have some more "free time"...

Sounds like a weak battery, same thing happened to me and may be that simple. Good luck hunting.....

 

[misterclean59]

Do a search on how to clean the old "stiff' grease from the shift motor gears and replace it with a white lithium if I remember correctly. I haven't done it but I've read it so many times here that it should be memorized by now. Supposedly just remove the shift motor from the front cover and clean the gears under a cover?.

 

[retro]

Here are a couple links for cleaning and replacing the old stiff grease in ES bikes:

http://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/honda-rancher/86553-es-getting-sluggish.html

http://www.hondaatvforums.net/forum...8080-fixing-electronic-shift-es-problems.html

There is at least one more thread that covers this in depth, but I can't seem to find it right now. Enjoy your work!

 

[KBacon]

So I have been storing this ATV over in my Father's garage until I could make some room in my garage. Finally was able to move some items over to the storage unit to be able to bring this thing home.

We to my dad's to pick it up.. and the battery was drained... and had to be jump started. It started right up off the jump box.. and initially didn't want to shift.. but after running for a few min.. I was off down the street. Was able to upshift and down shift... then upshifted all the way to 5th.. and didn't want to come out of 5th... got out the manual shift lever to get it back into 1st.. and loaded it into the truck. Got her home... and didn't want to start.. even off the jump box. But after putting her on the trickle charger for a few hours.. she started right up off the battery and shifted just fine (for now).

So I started going over this old girl a bit... checked the oil.. looks new... checked the air filter... looked new & freshly oiled... and since she starts right up w/ a good charge.. I assume the carb has been gone through sometime recently.. so at least the previous owner didn't completely neglect her... and had some recent service done... next I will check the diffs and likely replace those fluids... and check the coolant. Unfortunately this thing has A LOT of RUST on the frame, bumpers, racks, & bolts... after soaking the bolts/nuts w/ PB Blaster.. I went to remove the front bumper and manual plow mechanism.. and snapped 2 bolts getting in too big of a hurry... was able to get the rest of the bumper and rack bolts off w/ a liberal supply of PB Blaster, wire brush, and patience working the bolts back and forth.

Tried to remove some of the plastic fender bolts.. and not had any luck getting them to cooperate yet... may just snap them off and drill and retap.. don't know what good they might still be after removal anyways? Any thoughts/tips???

 

[KBacon]

Did some wire wheel work on the front bumper for starters... then coated w/ "rust converter"... then plan to prime and coat w/ spray on bed liner in a can...

 

[YukonXL04]

Man that's a deal. A free 4 wheeler... that runs lol...

Sounds like you need a new battery first, maybe the shift issues will be good after that

Check the bottom of the frame. We had a rancher that wasn't even that rusted but had rust holes all through the bottom of the frame. Ended up getting another frame for it.

 

[XplicitRacing6]

Did some wire wheel work on the front bumper for starters... then coated w/ "rust converter"... then plan to prime and coat w/ spray on bed liner in a can...

If by rust converter do you mean like a rust stop?? I would assume we are talking about the same thing because you need to stop that rust before you paint it or your just wasting your time... great looking quad for the price lol

 

[KBacon]

It's something by duplocolor... it sprays on clear and turns the rust black...

I didn't see any holes in the frame yet.. but I will give it a closer look...

Wondered about wire brushing the frame and coating it with POR15... supposedly you can "Paint Over Rust" with it... and hold up???

 

[YukonXL04]

It's something by duplocolor... it sprays on clear and turns the rust black...

I didn't see any holes in the frame yet.. but I will give it a closer look...

Wondered about wire brushing the frame and coating it with POR15... supposedly you can "Paint Over Rust" with it... and hold up???

It is best to wire wheel whatever rust you can get off first with por15. But if you use that, make sure to paint over it. Por15 will break down with UV exposure.

I would tap the bottom of the frame with a screwdriver or something and make sure there isn't and holes you can't see too.

 

[KBacon]

I took a quick look underneath before I left for work this morning... although I saw some heavy rust spots... I didn't see anything where it looked like it was even close to rusting through... the bottom actually looked better than some of the front

 

[YukonXL04]

Good deal! Then yea I would strip it down, wire wheel everything, coat in por15 or another rust converter, then paint it all.

Just to make sure it doesn't keep rusting and end up needing a new frame

 

[Macarena Man]

Also have a '99 450S ....
I spray WD40 or a similar spray oil into the inside of the frame. This is possible through the small drain holes at different locations on the frame. If you're going to paint the outside of the frame, this may not be a good idea as the oil will sometimes weep through.
Pull the recoil/rope starter off for cleaning also.
Mine only starts in neutral.

 

[KBacon]

I have been working on pulling things apart and removing rust...

I some 14" SRA SS wheels and 27" Big Horns from a Pioneer DLX on their way...

So... What mod path should I take??? Where do I start after I get the rust and fluids addressed???

Several of you have already done this once or more times... Anything I should address while I have it apart already??? The bike is 19yrs old and stock as can be... but only has 320 miles...

Don't want to have to do things multiple times... Which mods work better than others... ie 4x4 disconnect or '04 front diff setup...

Ball joints and tie rods feel tight... oil is new... air filter is new... bike runs pretty good.. so I assume the carb is working properly... plan to change diff fluids...

Should I go ahead and replace a arm bushings or any bearings?

Lift kit? High lifter or??? Found perfex kit on ebay... but not sure if it's the same as the "long travel" kit that everyone recommended?

oem disk brake setup or super atv? Replacement pads and parts availability?

What performance mods are worth it???

This forum is getting expensive quick!!!

 

[fishfiles]

Mac'Man , your yellow 450S sure is pretty !

 

[fishfiles]

KBacon , you asked about mods for your 450 , some of my favorite mods on mine , SuperATV disc brakes on the back and front , gear reduction = 300 clutch basket ------- I have parts to go farther along with mods , just need time to do it , want to swop the front diff from electric shift to the Wide Open 4x2 kick out , HMF exhaust , carb jet kit to match pipe , K+N air filter and maybe the 400 head

 

[Macarena Man]

Fishfiles, you have a great looking machine too .....
These 450's only came in three colors ...... mustard, ketchup, and relish !

 

[fishfiles]

Mac'Man, thanks ! ---------- rusted out frames are a common thing around here