[TRX350d1989]

Hi All,

Thanks for the forum and I hope all is well.

I’m based in North York’s England and love my Honda quad. We’re farmers but wenwork as well as it doesn’t pay the bills.

I’m hoping to find a better service manual as I can only get a Haynes manual for other models, and my quad is playing up. A 15 amp fuse blew and the starter motor won’t work but after kick starting it, it now cuts out after a couple of hundred yards.

I’ve changed the oil which was low, the fuel and air filter and am about to change the pump. Any ideas folks?

Thanks

Matty

 

[Goober]

First, welcome
These are great quads but they run best and most reliably on OEM parts.
So if you’re gonna buy a fuel pump make it OEM least you’re gonna pay is $130. Worth it

See the links in my signature block? You can access the online manuals here and download them. Or buy this copy off fleabay!

If your quad is cutting out, fist check the plug for fouling. If so, soak the tip in Berryman Chemtool and brush off with brass brush.

Then check the starter/choke valve—it sounds worn so you choke isn’t shutting off. Here’s a pic. The conical gasket should be pliable and fit snugly in the bore

 

[TRX350d1989]

Thanks- I will download the manual and do as recommended

Thanks, I have now purchased that book, as well as one called a shop manual in green for it off eBay.

May be needless but it’s cheap and good fun.

I have changed the spark plug as well and there was no difference to the bike. I’ll try and find the choke inlet as youve suggested this weekend).

(I can’t work out why what seems a fuel problem occurred at the same time as it cutting out after a few hundred yards, unless there are electrics within the choke inlet).

Thanks again,

Matty

 

[Goober]

You can do a fuel pump flow test

You might just have a piece of trash in the carb bowl–when it starts to pull then maybe it sucks it up into the main jet–however it might also suck it into the idle jet, so unless it quits randomly i think not.

Or maybe the tank fuel lines have sediment in them that restricts flow. I had to use about a foot of old brake cable to clear blockages in those lines–take off the petcock and you’ll see them.

Otherwise the petcock gasket could have slipped and restricts fuel flow

Lots of things can cause this, so I always start by cleaning the tank. There’s a drain bolt underneath the tank plate

 

[TRX350d1989]

Hi there, I fitted a new pump last night and the symptons are the same. The old one when running sounded like it was knocking every couple of seconds, and the new pump (not OEM) seems to click every second or so like a dodgby relay. It started on the kick start, ran for 200 yards, then stopped and wouldn't start again until I left it 15m. The 200 yard distance seems consistent each time. I ran it very hard and it revs up well until it dies.

The oil temp light comes on when you drop the revs, but turns off when you raise the revs, and it seems to run for ages in the barn on tick over.

I made a mistake of running it off reserve so it could be bad/old fuel. I will drain the tank this weekend, and thanks for the advice on the carb. I'll try and find the tank drain bolt as you've said. I've ordered some new fuel lines as they are a cheap repair to try. I've never looked at a carb before to see the bowl but I'll google it. It should be easy to access to check for dirt, and I'll check the choke as well. It's warm here and you only need choke to start it, and then you can very quickly release the choke. The old fuel filter was very dirty (now replaced) and (I think) only cleaned the main tank not the reserve, as there are 2 fuel lines going into the pump (clearly I'm clueless!).

Is the petcock simply bolted on to the tank?

I still can’t figure out why this issue would occur at exactly the same time as the starter failing. It was low on oil- could it be the fan didn’t come on as the old unit failed, and tells the engine to stop? I guess it’s just a coincidence.

Thanks again,

Matty

 

[shadetree]

bad fan unit ?, it also controls the c.d.i. in case an over heat of engine. this part is discontinued today, sucks..i know !. as for fuel pump ?, even a brand new fuel pump will not work at 100% IF THE FUEL CUT-OFF RELAY IS GOING OUT ?!. its located at right rear wheel, up and behind the tire, inside the black metal box. its black with a red connector on it. also..the fuel pump and relay works off the rpms of the crank, sooooooo..if the engine is not running correctly ?, the pump and relay wont work right. which tells me, the c.d.i. can be going out ?.

 

[Goober]

Hi there, I fitted a new pump last night and the symptons are the same. The old one when running sounded like it was knocking every couple of seconds, and the new pump (not OEM) seems to click every second or so like a dodgby relay. It started on the kick start, ran for 200 yards, then stopped and wouldn't start again until I left it 15m. The 200 yard distance seems consistent each time. I ran it very hard and it revs up well until it dies.

The oil temp light comes on when you drop the revs, but turns off when you raise the revs, and it seems to run for ages in the barn on tick over.

I made a mistake of running it off reserve so it could be bad/old fuel. I will drain the tank this weekend, and thanks for the advice on the carb. I'll try and find the tank drain bolt as you've said. I've ordered some new fuel lines as they are a cheap repair to try. I've never looked at a carb before to see the bowl but I'll google it. It should be easy to access to check for dirt, and I'll check the choke as well. It's warm here and you only need choke to start it, and then you can very quickly release the choke. The old fuel filter was very dirty (now replaced) and (I think) only cleaned the main tank not the reserve, as there are 2 fuel lines going into the pump (clearly I'm clueless!).

Is the petcock simply bolted on to the tank?

I still can’t figure out why this issue would occur at exactly the same time as the starter failing. It was low on oil- could it be the fan didn’t come on as the old unit failed, and tells the engine to stop? I guess it’s just a coincidence.

Thanks again,

Matty

Yes the petcock bolts on to the tank–you’ll see the two intake tubes. The left is the reserve–you can cut the end off an old brake cable and use it to break a rust or dirt blockage. I attached mine to s drill and used it as a directional bore LOL. CAREFUL there are fine screens at the end of the tubes–you don’t want to pierce them with the cable.

Ok one thing at a time I suppose. Do you have an old battery in it? Is your oil really dirty? Trying to think why your oil like would cycle like that.

 

[TRX350d1989]

Hi, I’ve carried on as as advised, and I’ve drained the tank, checked all the fuel pipes, and all seem ok. I’ve moved on to trying to see why the starter has stopped at the same time. I’ve changed the starter relay which clicks after a few minutes of being turned on, and wasn’t before at all, but the ignition neutral light and oil temp work perfectly.

When I check the battery voltage is 12.5v, but the leads off the starter relay only give 3.7v?. When the relay clicks I get a 0.14v from the starter motor leads on the starter case. Duff battery? The neutral light goes off when I turn the headlights on.

 

[shadetree]

Hi, I’ve carried on as as advised, and I’ve drained the tank, checked all the fuel pipes, and all seem ok. I’ve moved on to trying to see why the starter has stopped at the same time. I’ve changed the starter relay which clicks after a few minutes of being turned on, and wasn’t before at all, but the ignition neutral light and oil temp work perfectly.

When I check the battery voltage is 12.5v, but the leads off the starter relay only give 3.7v?. When the relay clicks I get a 0.14v from the starter motor leads on the starter case. Duff battery? The neutral light goes off when I turn the headlights on.

neutral light goes off when lights are turned on ?, sounds like a short some where in the harness too me ?.

 

[TRX350d1989]

Hi, I’ve carried on as as advised, and I’ve drained the tank, checked all the fuel pipes, and all seem ok. I’ve moved on to trying to see why the starter has stopped at the same time. I’ve changed the starter relay which clicks after a few minutes of being turned on, and wasn’t before at all, but the ignition neutral light and oil temp work perfectly.

When I check the battery voltage is 12.5v, but the leads off the starter relay only give 3.7v?. When the relay clicks I get a 0.14v from the starter motor leads on the starter case. Duff battery? The neutral light goes off when I turn the headlights on.

 

[Goober]

How old is the battery? If it’s over 3 years old and hasn’t been kept on a tender regularly it’s probably

the manual references a battery test–12.6V or higher I believe.

Will it kick start? Don’t run it long with a bad battery you’ll overload the charging system and may burn up the stator

Yes there is the possibility of a short so i would inspect the starter switch harness connector under the right inner fender. It has the white backshell.

You can inspect the wires coming out the back—for chafing. you can take a small flat blade screwdriver and barely pry up the locking tab and disco the connector.

 

[TRX350d1989]

I’ve linked another 12v battery on and the bike fired up quickly on the starter motor, so that’s hopefully sorted one issue. Bizarre that the battery looked good with voltage, but anyway I’ve bought another (YUASA) this time. So from Tuesday I will have a new battery in it. The old battery was about 3 years old. The fuel was filthy. Loads of dirt in the tank.

So I can focus on the fuel / electric / stopping issue from Tuesday and leave the starter alone. Thanks again for everyone’s help.

The trx350d manual is the most comprehensive I’ve ever seen, thanks again.

 

[Goober]

Okay very good. You’re making progress and saving $160 per hour labor! Score! Takes the sting out of buying OEM parts.

The tank has a drain bolt under the plate bolted to the bumper. Drain the tank into a bucket—messy affair—if you want to derust it, follow my Borescope Tank thread.

If it runs for over 5 minutes with the petcock on OFF then the internal gasket has failed.

You might also have some trash from the tank sucked into the suction lines or petcock. This could cause stalling above idle

I think you said you replaced the fuel pump with aftermarket? line are intake, outlet and diaphragm vent—cracks will be a source of air in the lines which will cause hard starting

 

[TRX350d1989]

Hi All,

The bike is now running perfectly and thank you all for your advice and patience.

I think it was crappy old fuel and general lack of care. I’ve spent time on the bike, using the manual you suggested, and have changed the diff oil amongst other maintenance. I fitted a new starter relay, new fuel pump and filter, new oil and air filter, drained the tank, checked the fuel lines, new battery, new fuel... and sounds like new.

Thanks again,

Matt

 

[Goober]

Great job! Thanks for the update. Now how bout some pics?!