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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! Bought a 2006 rancher 350 4x4 manual shift on Sept 30. It started right up and the motor ran pretty good. The owner was a middle school aged kid and his mom who said it needed front wheel bearings and swing arm bearings... oh, and it had NO BRAKES. If this was only the case. FYI he also had a snorkel installed and used it frequently..... He drowned this machine....

Here's the list so far:
front wheel bearings and ball joints
rear axle bearings
rear diff seals
rear crankcase seal
swing arm bearings
brake cylinders in front and shoes
master cylinder
choke cable
rear hand brake cable
seized rear foot brake
oil change (there was literally less than 1/2 quart in it)
air filter

Currently:
rebuilding the top end
waiting on a new carburetor
recoil starter
replacement swing arm as the original was deformed due to the bearings being GONE. only the races remained

Wonderful, right????

Anyway I am looking for a service manual and am wondering how to tell if I need to bore out the cylinder. I detect a small ridge at the top but no lines or other imperfections that I can see. The rings on the piston were really loose, and there was a decent amount of oil on the top. The piston itself was charred black on top. Suggestions???
 

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Download the service manual from the link in my signature block below

congratulations on taking this on. 2006 is a pretty good year because parts are still available and you don’t have to hunt too hard.

if you suspect the engine has been sunk, then I suggest you do the bottom end as well. there’s a good possibility that the piston was hydrolocked and or mud is in the bottom of the case. Hydrolock is when you get a non compressible fluid (water) in the compression chamber. This usually deforms the piston and rod, possibly the crank. There are ways to test/inspect these components—starting with the piston and cylinder condition. Then rod play, etc.

wouldn’t Want you to just do the top end, find dirt circulating through the engine or the rod ruined. Then destroys your freshened work.
 

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What Goober said. More than likely your rod will be shot as well, so you'll have to send the crank to Vince at Mr Crankshaft for a rebuild.

Definitely tear it all the way down and clean out the bottom end.

Free factory service manual downloads are available in PDF format at atvhonda.com.

Also, 07-13 420 Rancher knuckles, hub/rotors, and calipers bolt right on at the ball joints for front disc brakes using factory parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I already took the top end apart. Nothing got inside. But the piston is torched. I’ve run it all through the woods and it’s good to go. Smokes pretty good though. That’s why I tore down the top
 

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I already took the top end apart. Nothing got inside. But the piston is torched. I’ve run it all through the woods and it’s good to go. Smokes pretty good though. That’s why I tore down the top
If the prior owner sank it, the bottom end is full of whatever sediment was in the water that flooded the engine.

So when you slap a nice new top end on there, that grit in the bottom will work it's way up and ruin the new top end.
 

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I'll never understand peoples' drive to make these things so they can drive them through 5' of water... maybe I'm missing something, but destroying expensive pieces of equipment is lost on me.

I'm sure you know now, but snorkel = deal breaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The weird thing is that the engine is very clean inside. I’ve seen a picture of the kid sitting on it in a stream up to the rack but nothing appears to have gotten in the motor
 

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Hi all! Bought a 2006 rancher 350 4x4 manual shift on Sept 30. It started right up and the motor ran pretty good. The owner was a middle school aged kid and his mom who said it needed front wheel bearings and swing arm bearings... oh, and it had NO BRAKES. If this was only the case. FYI he also had a snorkel installed and used it frequently..... He drowned this machine....

Here's the list so far:
front wheel bearings and ball joints
rear axle bearings
rear diff seals
rear crankcase seal
swing arm bearings
brake cylinders in front and shoes
master cylinder
choke cable
rear hand brake cable
seized rear foot brake
oil change (there was literally less than 1/2 quart in it)
air filter

Currently:
rebuilding the top end
waiting on a new carburetor
recoil starter
replacement swing arm as the original was deformed due to the bearings being GONE. only the races remained

Wonderful, right????

Anyway I am looking for a service manual and am wondering how to tell if I need to bore out the cylinder. I detect a small ridge at the top but no lines or other imperfections that I can see. The rings on the piston were really loose, and there was a decent amount of oil on the top. The piston itself was charred black on top. Suggestions???
Give it a fresh start,.020 over. Sounds like it's lived in the mud pit. Go disk brakes on your rebuild
 
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