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Discussion Starter #1
So never used a forum before but I'm stumped on this ATV. I recently rebuilt a 250 engine, new clutch pads and centrifugal clutch. I started with just clutch pads and plates. I soaked them in Oreillys 5w-30 regular oil for a day. Put everything together, filled with castrol 10w-40 motorcycle oil because its SG rated as recommended, and clutch was slipping bad under a load. Adjusted it and nothing worked. SO... i decided to get a centrifugal clutch. Soaked it in Castrol 10w-40 motorcycle oil and its still slipping. I've made tons of adjustments and lowered the oil level to half but nothing has worked so far.

Do you guys think i need new clutch pads because of the 5w-30?
 

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you very well could have ruined the clutches from the get go, never use reg auto oil in a wet clutch engine !. you'll find more help here --> www.atvhonda.com
 

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Yeah that's the only thing i could figure. I did consider one other option. The centrifugal clutch housing has groves worn in it. I'm considering honing it out when i take it back apart but I've never heard of anyone doing this.
 

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Yeah that's the only thing i could figure. I did consider one other option. The centrifugal clutch housing has groves worn in it. I'm considering honing it out when i take it back apart but I've never heard of anyone doing this.
i'd be more worried about the friction disk.
 

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I know the rules say you can not run automotive oils in a wet clutch because of the friction modifiers. However, I have encountered a growing number of people who use some form of 10w30 or 0w30 in 600cc and 1,000cc sport bikes and even ATVs. Is the whole notion that automotive oils cause clutch slippage real? You read stories about how somebody walked to close to their ATV or motorcycle with a bottle of non JASO-MA oil and the mere presence of the oil in the same garage caused the clutch to slip. Then you read posts where somebody has been running non JASO-MA oil(s) for tens of thousands of miles with no issues.

Another Post:
I've been using automotive oils in wet clutches since 1977 and have never had any clutch slipage or problems.

Post from a real expert, not a shadetree mechanic:
Technically speaking Energy Conserving oil can not defeat a
wet clutch in good working order... whats confusing the issue
is the fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will reach a
point in their life and start to slip... no one complains
about clutch slip when new... but on about the 27K range is
when containments may build up to point where the clutch
begins to loose its grip during WFO (Wide Fooking
Open)throttle only... in error you can blame the oil but its
really the clutch...
I've been using 10/30 Energy Conserving Mobil 1 since 98 in
Mr.RC45 with no clutch slipping due to oil being certified
10% slipperier than non EC oil... and it's a bike with a tall
first gear good for 90mph that's known to incinerate clutch
plates..
Can synthetic oils cause my clutch to slip?
"To answer this in one word: No. Clutch slippage is caused by
many things, but the use of synthetic oil alone is usually
not the culprit. The truth is that some bikes seem to suffer
clutch slippage no matter what oil goes in them, while others
run fine with any oil. This is most likely caused by factors
other than the oil, such as the spring pressure, age and
clutch plate materials".
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, i pulled the clutch last night and cleaned all 5 disc with break cleaner. They were completely dry and oil free when i went out this morning. I soaked them in the recommended oil and left them all day. Installed them just this evening and its still slipping. i even honed the centrifugal bell housing. Maybe pull it apart again clean it and try a different oil? Im running out of options here. There's just not that much left that it could be.

subzerosoundman I agree with what your saying. I've used regular 10w-30 in bikes and ATV many times. Maybe mix a little ATF type F in there? I use that on my 2 strokes.
 

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Well, i pulled the clutch last night and cleaned all 5 disc with break cleaner. They were completely dry and oil free when i went out this morning. I soaked them in the recommended oil and left them all day. Installed them just this evening and its still slipping. i even honed the centrifugal bell housing. Maybe pull it apart again clean it and try a different oil? Im running out of options here. There's just not that much left that it could be.

subzerosoundman I agree with what your saying. I've used regular 10w-30 in bikes and ATV many times. Maybe mix a little ATF type F in there? I use that on my 2 strokes.
then your clutch is not adjusted correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
adjusted it again today and I can 100% say that adjustment isnt the issue. The problem mostly occurs between half and full throttle. Maybe change the springs again, or different brand oil,or if possible add an extra friction plate. IDK im just experimenting at this point.lol
 

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adjusted it again today and I can 100% say that adjustment isnt the issue. The problem mostly occurs between half and full throttle. Maybe change the springs again, or different brand oil,or if possible add an extra friction plate. IDK im just experimenting at this point.lol
please explain to me your process on how your adjusting the clutch.
 

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One Post:
I know the rules say you can not run automotive oils in a wet clutch because of the friction modifiers. However, I have encountered a growing number of people who use some form of 10w30 or 0w30 in 600cc and 1,000cc sport bikes and even ATVs. Is the whole notion that automotive oils cause clutch slippage real? You read stories about how somebody walked to close to their ATV or motorcycle with a bottle of non JASO-MA oil and the mere presence of the oil in the same garage caused the clutch to slip. Then you read posts where somebody has been running non JASO-MA oil(s) for tens of thousands of miles with no issues.

Another Post:
I've been using automotive oils in wet clutches since 1977 and have never had any clutch slipage or problems.

Post from a real expert, not a shadetree mechanic:
Technically speaking Energy Conserving oil can not defeat a
wet clutch in good working order... whats confusing the issue
is the fact that all motorcycle wet clutches will reach a
point in their life and start to slip... no one complains
about clutch slip when new... but on about the 27K range is
when containments may build up to point where the clutch
begins to loose its grip during WFO (Wide Fooking
Open)throttle only... in error you can blame the oil but its
really the clutch...
I've been using 10/30 Energy Conserving Mobil 1 since 98 in
Mr.RC45 with no clutch slipping due to oil being certified
10% slipperier than non EC oil... and it's a bike with a tall
first gear good for 90mph that's known to incinerate clutch
plates..
Can synthetic oils cause my clutch to slip?
"To answer this in one word: No. Clutch slippage is caused by
many things, but the use of synthetic oil alone is usually
not the culprit. The truth is that some bikes seem to suffer
clutch slippage no matter what oil goes in them, while others
run fine with any oil. This is most likely caused by factors
other than the oil, such as the spring pressure, age and
clutch plate materials".
gonna go out on a limb here, and ask if your comment about a '' shadetree'' mech knows nothing about atv oils ?, yeah, let me read one more dumb comment from you, and i will personally see you to the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
please explain to me your process on how your adjusting the clutch.
I was going "by the book" with counterclockwise until stop then 1/4 tun in and test drive until adjusted correctly. I abandoned that idea and have tried every 1/16th turn on the spectrum from shifting so tight it wouldn't move to shifting that felt like slack trash. I can find a sweet point that feels great when going into gear but still at 1/2 throttle you can start to feel like its losing power but gaining RPM. I went with Tusk clutch kit with HD springs.(FYI)
 

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Yeah that's the only thing i could figure. I did consider one other option. The centrifugal clutch housing has groves worn in it. I'm considering honing it out when i take it back apart but I've never heard of anyone doing this.
Your centrifugal clutch might be slipping. I assume the weights push out against the housing drum when you rev the engine, but if there are grooves in it they won't grab well.
 

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I was going "by the book" with counterclockwise until stop then 1/4 tun in and test drive until adjusted correctly. I abandoned that idea and have tried every 1/16th turn on the spectrum from shifting so tight it wouldn't move to shifting that felt like slack trash. I can find a sweet point that feels great when going into gear but still at 1/2 throttle you can start to feel like its losing power but gaining RPM. I went with Tusk clutch kit with HD springs.(FYI)
might be a good idea to tear back into it, and see if you installed something wrong, almost sounds like it to me.
 
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