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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a rattle that I am unable to diagnose.

I have checked the valves. They seem approx to at spec. No pro.

I also put in a new timing chain (DIDS) and a tensioner arm. I followed the manual to a T. I did notice where the old chain was hitting when I had apart.

I though about tighting the tensioner using a small screwdriver but I am afraid of over tighting...

What else could it be? Could it really be the piston?

Any ideas appreciated.
 

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how long ago did you do the timing chain ? -------- there is no adjustment on a 300 chain adjuster , it is automatic --------- what are you calling a tensioner arm , I would guess you changed one of the two chain guides and your calling it a tensioner arm ------------ the rattle could be the wrist pin bore wallowed out and your hearing the piston ----- could be the timing chain again , I have seen them not last long , could be your slack adjuster is bad
 

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I put the new chain on a day ago. It is automatic but you can manually tighten since in only goes out w/o a screwdriver. The guide closest to the tensioner is a tensioner arm which the tensioner presses on to give tension. I’ll look into the wrist pin. What are you calling a slack adjuster?
 

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It is automatic but you can manually tighten since in only goes out w/o a screwdriver. What are you calling a slack adjuster?

Really . / Slack Adjuster = the device on side the jug , which is held in by two bolts and has a plug on the end , which when removed gives access to the spring caging screw , you screw the screw all the way out , relieving pressure from the shaft , then stick it into the jug while holding that screw , after the bolts are tight , let go of the screw and the slack adjuster is adjuster
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It is automatic but you can manually tighten since in only goes out w/o a screwdriver. What are you calling a slack adjuster?

Really . / Slack Adjuster = the device on side the jug , which is held in by two bolts and has a plug on the end , which when removed gives access to the spring caging screw , you screw the screw all the way out , relieving pressure from the shaft , then stick it into the jug while holding that screw , after the bolts are tight , let go of the screw and the slack adjuster is adjuster

OK. Slack Adjuster = Tensioner. Is there a way to know if it is bad? I was able to retract it all the way and it popped back out. I suppose it might not have the pressure it once did.

What your calling th spring caging screw is what I was talking about manually adjusting or testing. From what I have read you can turn it maybe a 1/8- 1/4 counter clockwise turn and it will put more pressure on chain. And from me fooling with it only seems to go out i.e. once its out it wont go back in without turning that screw.
 

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It is automatic but you can manually tighten since in only goes out w/o a screwdriver. What are you calling a slack adjuster?

Really . / Slack Adjuster = the device on side the jug , which is held in by two bolts and has a plug on the end , which when removed gives access to the spring caging screw , you screw the screw all the way out , relieving pressure from the shaft , then stick it into the jug while holding that screw , after the bolts are tight , let go of the screw and the slack adjuster is adjuster

OK. Slack Adjuster = Tensioner. Is there a way to know if it is bad? I was able to retract it all the way and it popped back out. I suppose it might not have the pressure it once did.

What your calling th spring caging screw is what I was talking about manually adjusting or testing. From what I have read you can turn it maybe a 1/8- 1/4 counter clockwise turn and it will put more pressure on chain. And from me fooling with it only seems to go out i.e. once its out it wont go back in without turning that screw.
its automatic, there is no adjusting it once you bolt it in, and let go of the center screw with a small screw driver, you can not force it out further, wont happen !.
 
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