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So here's the deal, after cutting some wood this morning I backed the quad out to do a tweak adjustment. I loosened the nut fully and worked the screw in and out again. Then on the final back out I stopped where I had previously adjusted and then wanted to see how much further I could back out. It was about another 1/4 or more turn to good resistance. So from the max back out I turned in 1/4 turn and tightened. Next went for a test ride which didn't get far before it stalled. I thought I had messed something up but then realized I had not turned the fuel switch on....lol So got back running and went for my ride and it up and downshifted thru the gears just fine 2 times. In the process I met a neighbor and shut off and the clutch didn't keep running. The last time when returning home it did run after so I think I will leave things alone for now. I might try @retros check for an ES for adjustment but at the very least very close to good.

Many thanks for all the help and guidance, I'm sure I have worn out my welcome for a few days!!!
lol, nah bro..your more than welcome to visit here as much as ya want !. just don't track mud in !!..lol. I have not read every post you've made ?, but I think this is an es model ?, if so ?, have you pulled the es parts off, cleaned out all the old factory grease, and repacked with fresh grease all back inside the shifting area for the es parts ?, some times this will fix es problems, BUT NOT ALWAYS !..LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yep it's the dreaded ES model...lol and no I haven't done that step yet, I did read the thread by kentco on how to do that. Gonna leave things as they are for now as the shift seems to be working well. And it doesn't sound like it would help the centrifigul clutch spinning issue. I really don't have a way to lift the front up to get at it but I'm sure with the black plastic foot guards removed it might work ok.
 

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Yep it's the dreaded ES model...lol and no I haven't done that step yet, I did read the thread by kentco on how to do that. Gonna leave things as they are for now as the shift seems to be working well. And it doesn't sound like it would help the centrifigul clutch spinning issue. I really don't have a way to lift the front up to get at it but I'm sure with the black plastic foot guards removed it might work ok.
no need to lift the front up !. remove both front wheels, inner splash guards, maybe the floor boards ?, then you can reach right in and get to the es shifting area, pretty simple..but a royal pain in the butt I tell ya !. why ?, the electric shift motor will not clear the frame when you pull the parts out, the end of the motor hits the frame !. it takes some curse words, but it will come out if you angle it just right, kick it a few times..you get the idea !..lol.
 

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and no, the clutch bearing has nothing to do with the way it shifts.
 

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I have a couple more things to say if you are interested...? Don't wait for the ES system to fail, prepare it to operate flawlessly for a couple more decades, right now!

Unplug every harness connector on the bike for cleaning and treatment with dielectric grease. Clean the battery cables & terminals, the two solenoid cables attachments, and the motor and frame grounds. Use dielectric grease on every one of them to seal & prevent corrosion.

Then remove the handlebar switches assembly and take all of those switches apart for cleaning and lubrication with dielectric grease. Reassemble and put it back on the bike.

Then remove the reduction gears cover, the reduction gears, the shift motor and the angle sensor. Clean all those parts up, grab a tub of NLGI #2 synthetic grease and follow me:

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/builds-projects-diy/117193-creamsicle-orange-2.html#post1151201

Failure to fix and prepare the ES system now (very little cost, your labor provides the magic), will result in a very expensive failure very soon. Failing to prepare the ES system now may result in the ECM frying itself long before anything else ever fails... because the ECM supplies ALL of the (high) current loads for the shift motor. You've got to minimize those high current requirements by minimizing friction in every mechanical part.

If you don't do all of the necessary prep work soon, you may as well start stocking up on new ECMs and shift motors right now. Look up the price of them if you need a little bit of a nudge... ;-)
 

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Guess I'll have to look up the service manual to figure out where all the connectors are located. Also some help on doing some of the other items. I'm heavy into cutting firewood so time is tight. If I need some assistance I will start a new thread. Again guys thanks for giving me all the info. My only problem is having some confidence doing some of these things, I can't even do an oil change without forgetting to add oil....:eek
 

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Guess I'll have to look up the service manual to figure out where all the connectors are located. Also some help on doing some of the other items. I'm heavy into cutting firewood so time is tight. If I need some assistance I will start a new thread. Again guys thanks for giving me all the info. My only problem is having some confidence doing some of these things, I can't even do an oil change without forgetting to add oil....:eek
[email protected] to add oil !. don't feel bad bro, try rebuilding an engine, getting it back in the frame, everything all hooked up, fuel to carb, ignition on, cranking it over, and nothing ??..hmmm..what the heck ??..spend 30 min's checking everything, come find out...you forget to put the spark plug back in ??!!..lol. yeah..as I said..your not the first, surely wont be the last !!..lol. ( and no..its not on this project I am doing right now )..lol.
 

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there is only two connectors that you need to unhook at the front on your model, one is on the front right down tube, just to the inside right of the oil cooler fan, this is the shift motor power, its round. the other is at the angle sensor just to the right of the shift motor. once you get these unhooked, its just a matter of unbolting the shifting area cover. DO NOT REMOVE THE ALLEN BOLTS THAT HOLD THE SHIFT MOTOR TO VERY FRONT OF THE COVER !. last thing you need is to pull the shift motor apart !!..lol.
 

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Guess I'll have to look up the service manual to figure out where all the connectors are located. Also some help on doing some of the other items. I'm heavy into cutting firewood so time is tight. If I need some assistance I will start a new thread. Again guys thanks for giving me all the info. My only problem is having some confidence doing some of these things, I can't even do an oil change without forgetting to add oil....:eek
Make a project out of it... you'll need some time to complete the prep, so choose a time when you won't need the bike for a while. You'll need to remove both fenders to access everything. Start a thread when its convenient for you... you'll get plenty of help. You'll marvel at the results of your work as well. Be safe firewooding...
 

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Let's just say if we hadn't talked about words we shouldn't use here there would be a few tonight. Decided to change the oil on my 1998 Foreman 450ES today. Everything went well, I drained the oil and pulled the oil filter cover off. I wasn't nuts about the large o ring and went to a few places to see if I could find one. No luck. So I proceeded to put everything back together, plug back in the drain and placed the o ring and new filter and spring back. I was kinda worried there would be a leak from around the filter housing, but tightened everything down. With my mind on the possible leak I started the engine, not paying attention I had not put oil in yet!! Here the 4 letter words would be inserted..:angry: Probably ran 15-20 seconds or so, never shifted out of neutral, before I came to my senses. Shut down and added 2 quarts of ATV oil, restarted for a minute or more, shut down and added another .1 quart to top off.

Started again, engine sounded ok, shifted into reverse to back up, then shifted to 1st to test out. Went down the road a little and not shifting well, trying to upshift from 2 to 3 and showing 3 but never really shifting and showing 2. Got up to 5 but again not shifting well. It ended up dying on the way back with the dashes showing and not restarting. I was able to use the buttons to get back to neutral and started again. So now upshifting is iffy, downshifting seems fine. My real problem is when upshifting I get some shuttering when giving throttle, probably clutch, like it's trying to connect. It was doing this next symptom before the oil change, but when upshifting sometimes it takes off in the next gear but its like overdrive kicks in and takes off faster. Also before and after when shutting down there is something internal that keeps spinning then catches and stops. So think things weren't great with the clutch before but running for a short time with no oil made it worse.

So you can call me any name you want I have it coming!! But does it sound like I am going to need some clutch work sooner than later?? I will try to add more details if needed.
Let's just call it an "oil drain", not an "oil change." :)
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Let's just call it an "oil drain", not an "oil change."

Ya that would cover it pretty well, just glad I didn't try to take it for a long check drive, wouldn't have been too long....:eek
 

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I am trying to help the OP prepare his ES system for long term survival @shadetree. Everything you just posted runs counter to those efforts in all my experiences with ES systems.
how about this, i'll let you handle all the es troubles from here on out, deal ?..lol. i'll stay out of all es issues :).
 

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im probably not catching the full drift of this thread tonight, as i had a few buds tonight, an may well be lubed.
did ya get around to the shift motor, replace the grease with lithem synthetic, for the gears? how old is the shift motor, and how old is the battery, plus, how well does it charge
most likely off base tonight, buds, food for thought, with those off base as well.
 

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You guys are so good, I still learn from this Forum even if I am as old as dirt! Glad I found this place!! :)
I've gone from purchasing my first ATV last summer and knowing nothing about them to rebuilding the front end of my motor. Thanks to the help from members here I completed something I never would have guessed I could do. So yes it seems no matter what question you have about your quad there is somebody here that can lend some help!!!
 

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shifter motor

the first time i tried to get the shift motor, i found that the frame was in the way. has been ever since. i took the motor mount bolts out. i pryed the atv motor up a bit, and it came out easy. when i pryed it up. i stuck a wedge it there to hold the atv motor up, whilst i got the shift motor out.
i put the shift motor back in. then later went to the parts store for a new brush. i figured i would use the atv a while longer, :icon_ owned: ,till i put the brush in.
never happened. the brush wore down, till it ate the rotor. :icon_ nono2:, :crying, :eek:, :mad::mad::mad:
still got the brush.. :grin
 

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When you say adjust the change clutch loosen the 14 mm nut and adjust the screw?
Yes, see the attached image... back out the screw about two turns max, put some grease or oil on the screw threads then turn it in until resistance is barely felt. Double check that the screw is not binding in the case making you think it has stopped... Once you are sure, back it out 1/4 turn and hold it there while you tighten the locknut.

The adjustment screw might be found seized up in the cover. If so don't ruin the soft screw trying to loosen it. Spray it down with penetrating oil and smack it with a plastic hammer to break the corroded threads bond. Or hollar at us... :)
As retro says, this is important. It took about two hours to free mine off gently winding back and forth with plenty of lube. Don't rush this bit, if it's seized then get yourself comfortable and stay as long as it takes to do it properly.
I had exactly the same experience with the 450es I overhauled. Was driving me nuts! I released the adjusting screw locknut all the way out till it was level with the end of the screw, I found this aided support of the screwdriver in the adjusting screw slot & helped avoid splaying damage. After a few gentle taps on the end of the adjusting screw it released & turned perfectly. I've now covered over the locknut & screw with an RTV type sealant to help protect it from the elements.
 

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Yes, see the attached image... back out the screw about two turns max, put some grease or oil on the screw threads then turn it in until resistance is barely felt. Double check that the screw is not binding in the case making you think it has stopped... Once you are sure, back it out 1/4 turn and hold it there while you tighten the locknut.

The adjustment screw might be found seized up in the cover. If so don't ruin the soft screw trying to loosen it. Spray it down with penetrating oil and smack it with a plastic hammer to break the corroded threads bond. Or hollar at us... :)
As retro says, this is important. It took about two hours to free mine off gently winding back and forth with plenty of lube. Don't rush this bit, if it's seized then get yourself comfortable and stay as long as it takes to do it properly.
I had exactly the same experience with the 450es I overhauled. Was driving me nuts! I released the adjusting screw locknut all the way out till it was level with the end of the screw, I found this aided support of the screwdriver in the adjusting screw slot & helped avoid splaying damage. After a few gentle taps on the end of the adjusting screw it released & turned perfectly. I've now covered over the locknut & screw with an RTV type sealant to help protect it from the elements.
you don't use rtv sealant on anything !. that nut has a washer under it, and an o-ring inside the hole on the inside to keep oil from getting out. some good lube like wd-40, or pb blaster sprayed under the nut is all you need.
 

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I have a bold confession to make... I use Ultra Black gasket maker on all sorts of joints/things on Honda ATVs and everything else I work on/maintain. I have been using automotive RTV gasket sealants ever since they started getting good with them back in the '70s. There are many places (many added-value benefits) where that stuff is appropriate on ATVs.

Like any other product ya gotta use common sense with it, AND use it sparingly... a thin film on clean parts is all thats necessary in most instances. I don't use it between rigid motor cases or anywhere that it can get loose and interfere with the lubrication system, thats dumb and unnecessary, that's improper use of the product.

But I'm not afraid to use it anywhere else that I feel is appropriate. I'm darn good at sealing things up right though, I've got an awful lot of experience. As Fel-Pro used to print on all of their gasket packages, "Sealing is a Science". Take that statement seriously and most technical folks can become experts with those products.
 
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