[NealR]

Hi Everyone,
2003-2005 Rancher 350 ES. Tuneup complete, plugs, oil, diff fluids, carbs cleaned and one rebuilt. They run great and I'm happy with that. But there is one question I have. I always have to prime the carb with two or three pumps to cold start the ATVs. Cold start, two or three prime pumps every time, if they have been running and then sit for 30 min. I have to prime with 1 or 2 pumps. Warm starts I don't need to prime.

Is this common or am I missing an adjustment?


Thanks, Neal

 

[Goober]

Good question most folks will tell you they never use the priming feature.
Here’s how I’ve always started my carburetted quads– this is how Shadetree explained to me awhile back:

Cold engine
Run switch to ON
Set choke
Key Ignition to ON
Neutral light on steady
Oil light on momentarily then off
Hold throttle 1/3 open
Crank or kick over engine
Should start within 5 secs

After it runs for a minute maybe two then switch to half choke; after 3-5 minutes ready for choke off.

Hope this helps you with cold starting. Otherwise your starter valve may require changing or cleaning. When you pull the choke out does the carb want to suck it back in?

 

[mrbb]

I'm going to say this is NOT normal
my 400 has a primmer on it, and in 20 yrs I have maybe used it 5 times? and this is in like minus 10 and lower temps!

how often do you run./use atv?
if it sits often and your running ETHANOL fuel,. fuel can go bad FAST as in weeks or less and cause all sorts of starting issue's!(running one's too)
what is compression on this motor?
these ain't new atv's anymore, so, small things can add up to have starting issue's like this IMO!

 

[retro]

What is the elevation there? Are the carbs set up for your elevation? Are the chokes functional on each bike and are you using them?

 

[NealR]

1: Yes my fuel has ethanol 10% I always use stabil in my fuel.

2: I'm not sure what my compression is but I have 1000 miles one and 250 on the other.

3: I haven't insisted on using the choke because they seem to start fine with the primer. Although the times I have used the choke I seemed to have to prime the carb.

4: My beginning elevation is 4700 feet and at times can go well above 6000. As far as "set up" for the elevation I would have to say no.

5: starting temps are rarely if ever below freezing and generally 70-80 degrees.

6: When I have used the choke it does seem to suck back in. (if my memory is correct, I haven't used the choke in a looooong time)

Thanks, Neal

Where is the starter valve?

 

[NealR]

ONE MORE THING....... My 2003 runs about twice a week. Sometimes for hours and other time it's only riding across the hood to a neighbor or to a convenience store. 2005 not so often. It's my neighbors and I'll start and run it but I generally don't ride it around, only on trips to the backcountry but it'll be used this winter for plowing. BOTH QUADS SHARE THE SAME STARTING CHARACTERISTICS, but then again there's a good chance it's my habits.

 

[mrbb]

OK< so these are extremely LOW used atv's, a 2003-2005 with only 250 miles on it? WOW!(Like 16 miles a yr ??)

this being said, I would be running NON ethanol fuel, and not ethanol with additives to it, there sitting WAY too long and fuel is most likely still going bad on you!
and yes, you should be using the choke over priming the carb IMO! its what the choke is for! cold starts!
based on these super low miles , I have to ask, how often do you change the oil, as if your going off miles, your oil is IMO sitting a LONG time and can go bad from this alone, due to condensation issues from temp changes, and the low use, your most likely never running them enough to burn it off!
I would still be changing it once a yr IMO!
Just food for thought here!

 

[mrbb]

when was the last time the valves were checks?
just idling a motor is NOT very healthy for it, you can build excessive heat (no air flowing) and carbon can build up on things!

 

[NealR]

These are very low use machines. We have had 2005 less than 3 months. We know the original owner, He was an elderly man in the early stages of dementia. The original owner gave it to his brother-in-law who lives down the way from us. The long and short the brother in law is elderly as well and my wife and I have been helping them with Dr appointments, shopping, snow removal, garbage and other things So he asked me to get it running and he'll leave it with us to ride in the summer for helping with him and his wife. And I'll I don't think there was any maintenance done there. But all the fluids looked fine when I changed them.

2003 I purchased several years ago off of CL from a man who was passing from cancer. I have no idea of the maintenance that was done prior to owning it but my read in the family was that it was reasonably cared for. I regularly maintain the ATV.

 

[mrbb]

they sound like good atv's
but the low use can cause running issue's(and other things, seal go dry, as to bearings and such)
and that is my point on the fuel side of things, like new atv';s tend to start fast and easy and NO need for priming a carb on them!
if your going to start them now and then I suggest driving them as well, to help lube parts, make sure there up to temp before parking them as well, so things have a time to burn off any condensation in oils
from motor to diff's!

bearings need to be turned to keep lubing all sides of them, so just idling thing sis NOT the best way to keep older low use items IMO

Tires too can dry rot from age alone!
not maybe p[art of your question, just adding some food for thought for you

I would honestly again try and find some place that sells NON ethanol fuel and drain tanks of the old/mixed fuel and or drive them and use it up and then start with new NON ethanol fuel, it just plain and simple last longer doesn't absorb water as much or fast!, you an still treat it and I would based on your low use, but I woudn;'t be using ethanol at all if I could help it, its worth the drive to go get it!

Valves being out of spec, can also again, cause starting issue's!
so they should be checked!

 

[NealR]

I've been on the hunt for Ethanol free fuel, the only stuff I can find id the canned fuel from Homedepot. My valves have never been checked or adjusted. I'll look into doing that too. Do you folks have any pointers or suggestions?

Neal

 

[mrbb]

for how often you seem to use these atv's., even at the HIGHER price for ethanol fuel, I'd buy it!
your atv's are sitting 90% of the time, and ethanol fuel just goes bad, coats carbs and parts with varnish, clogs fuel lines and injectors!
the down time and the costs to clean and fix the issue's will cost you more than paying 6 -8 bucks a gallon, in the long run your still saving money, even at such crazy prices
as HOW Long will a gallon of fuel last you>>, on the on atv, at 15 miles a yr based on age and miles??
thats under a gallon of fuel every 2 yrs??, so 5 bucks a yr LOL
some times you have to look at overall costs over UP front costs!

that or you need to start using these atv's a LOT more often so SAME fuel is never in tank for months at a time,
use it down, low, then refill, DON"T just keep topping tank off, as your old fuel just keeps getting older

 

[Austin92]

I saw ethanol free fuel at a Sunoco station for 4.15$/gallon yesterday


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mrbb]

there are a few web sites that show listings of places that sell it,
here are two I know of

https://www.pure-gas.org/


https://www.buyrealgas.com/states.html

 

[NealR]

Man ooooo man living in Caliunicornia is the worst. The closest bulk Ethanol station is hundreds of miles away. But hey at least the hobos have better cell phones than my wife and me. Maybe getting it at Home Depot is the only way.

 

[mrbb]

Man ooooo man living in Caliunicornia is the worst. The closest bulk Ethanol station is hundreds of miles away. But hey at least the hobos have better cell phones than my wife and me. Maybe getting it at Home Depot is the only way.

some more places you might find it is at smaller air ports, and or larger lawn service/repair shops
or maybe race tracks and so on, as a lot of places use it over the ethanol due to the fact it causes less issue's and can get things back up and running faster and longer!

My local chainsaw shop carries it in bulk and will sell it by the gallon,(to a point)
One of the very first things he does on almost any motor that comes in that has running issue's (be it a chainsaw, riding mower or??)
he dumps fuel in what ever!
and refill with NON ethanol and he tells me it solves a LOT of problems right there! no need to do more than this!

and this is why he carries it in bulk!
modern fuel is OK< if you use it up FAST and keep having NEW fuel in things, but when anything sits, even treated, its crappy fuel as to what we had yrs back before ethanol fuel!

 

[Loosemarbles]

I’ve been getting ethanol free 87 for around $2.60 a gal. I use it in my Polaris ranger honda rubicon and my kubota zero turn. Was using premium fuel awhile back. It does seem to run better using ethanol free fuel. And my mileage has went up a bit also. But I still use stabil marine formula for extra insurance.

 

[H0nda4trck]

I just bought a 2016 Recon with about 2 hours on it and a full tank of ethanol gas. Here is what the carb. Looked like. Would not start at all, cleaned it runs like a champ.

 

[H0nda4trck]

This is so you can see what will happen with old gas sitting for months in a carb.

 

[NealR]

Any thoughts on Avfuel 100LL? From what I've read on the web some suggest it and others don't.

PS as far as using the primer button I have found both ATVs start without using it as long as I crank it a little longer.