Honda ATV Forum banner
1 - 20 of 77 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So yesterday I got rid of a boat that I did not like that didn’t run and I kept the trailer because it’s a galvanized boxed trailer with a sliding axle. The boat was only 14 feet long so the trailer was only about 17 or 18 feet total. I took the center and supported it with a new crossmember and tomorrow I’m building the front out to even up with the rear width so I’ll have a solid floor. The structural beams are right in place for the wheels. I will be taking about 4 feet off of the backend and sliding the axles forward.

 

Attachments

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,143 Posts
Camera person has a big finger!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
12,712 Posts
Don't know if the story holds water , but was told by so many people , that when you weld galvanized you should drink milk to counter act the poison gases associated with galvanized metal welding ------ I don't know if that would make any difference but do know the smoke has a unique taste
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,418 Posts
The “galvanize flu” like symptoms are caused by exposure to chemicals such as zinc oxide (ZnO), which is produced as a byproduct when heated at that level. Like fish mentions, there are claims that milk helps and suspect it may be settling on the stomach vs the nausea that may come from the fumes. I am unaware of any scientific evidence to explain the milk and speculating on my part the mechanism. I would however put a small fan outside and just push those fumes downstream of where you are working. Let up the great work..,
 

· Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Don't know if the story holds water , but was told by so many people , that when you weld galvanized you should drink milk to counter act the poison gases associated with galvanized metal welding ------ I don't know if that would make any difference but do know the smoke has a unique taste
Yes you can drink milk and it will keep you from getting sick welding galvanized. I don’t weld galvanized personally, but i know folks who do. On this trailer the galvanized zinc has to come off where I’m welding at to get good fusion so it was removed at all the weld spots.

I dunno how to explain how I’m doing the front, but it’s sort of reverse triangles. The neck angles in and the outer beams angle out. It will give a wider front for my toolbox. It’s how i had to support the floor with the frame so i could put heavy items up front on the edges. The floor itself will be perfectly squared in, but the front of the frame extends outwards where I’m using a step up on each side by the toolbox so i wanted the frame to come all the way out. The front is about an inch wider on each side.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK here is the actual floor the wood is going on Boxed in on the front half of the trailer tacked up and done. This trailer is basically going to have a subframe. Future planning for changes.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Looking good! Can't wait to see the finished product.

Our welders and fitters at work say to spray wd40 before grinding the galvanized off, stops the smoke so your not inhaling it. Been doing it a while on all out structural steel. Seems to be working. But who knows.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If I actually had the locking hinges i want the floor frame would just click lock to the frame. I can’t fund the full system i want yet. I want the trailer to be a transformer. That’s why i wanted a top frame over a sub frame. I’m building an enclosed area to lock into the floor on rainy days, upcoming winter, etc. V2.0 of the trailer will have the heavy duty locks so i can swap floors. This trailer is rated for 1500 lbs so it’s tough and changing the tires ups it a few hundred more making it closer to a 1 ton. The boxed galvanized frame can handle anything I personally can put on it load wise so V2.0 will have a heavier axle setup. It has three leafs, one overload on it right now so it’s a lot beefier than those $500 lowes trailers. I figure it has a good foundation to build on and i already had it so I’m going to just keep modifying it until it’s the setup I want.

Here are a few of the welds from today. I wanted to try capping one of the longer welds with my mig to see how it would work. All of them are rooted with 6010, so they are strong either way. Most all are capped with 7018. I’m using mig on the angle iron for the floor frame.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Using a newer 2016 lincoln 220v powermig for the mig, and my trusty 1957 Lincoln Idealarc 300 for stick/tig. All my rods are 180 amps and below, but if i need to arc gouge the Lincoln will run 450 amps at 35% duty cycle, 375 amps at 60%, 300 amps at 100% duty cycle all day long so i get tired before it does. Lol. I run a CKworldwide ck17fvx flexhead tig on the idealarc
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,072 Posts
Just a suggestion, from the front I would be tempted to fit a crossmember between the second set of outriggers. Because of the triangular section of the A frame the trailer will naturally want to twist. When you add a bed to a long A frame the bed will stay twisted after a good pothole in the road.
You may have already planned to do so but just thought I’d put it out there :)

Looking good so far though.
 
1 - 20 of 77 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top