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Making a home made bleeder for 350S

3K views 39 replies 7 participants last post by  shadetree 
#1 ·
#2 ·
that tubes ID is too large for your trx350 ranchers bleeder nipple, they are roughly about 1/8 ID, you should be able to push 1/8 ID down over the bleeder nipple. I never use anything like this, I always just put a drain pan under the brake area, and bleed them like that.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
I use two lengths of clear hose to drain brake fluid into a beer bottle. Put an bend in them to keep air from getting into the nipple and to judge the color of the fluid as it comes out. I use a piece of Velcro strap to keep pressure on the lever. At some point you will want to remove the sludge from the reservoir. I use a clean shop rag and a clean flux (acid) brush. Throw away everything when you're done.

I bleed the short line length first then longest length, so right brake line then left brake

If I'm mistaken someone please lmk
 
#4 ·
I thought that you are supposed to bleed furtherest from the master cylinder, proceeding to closest. On an automobile, that would be right rear, left rear, right front, then left front. I know that on an atv the distance between the two fronts is marginally different, so it may not matter. I bled the front brakes on my 300 left then right, and got all the air out easily. Obviously, the opposite worked for you.
 
#5 ·
hodge , like you said , on a 300 and most every other atv I have seen , the front brake hoses are the exact same length on the left and the right as the tee is in the middle of the bike , so it really doesn't matter what one is first ------ would have to guess there are some atv's with the tee to one side and one would be longer
 
#6 ·
but if you stop and think for a min ?, the master cylinder is further away from the left side that it is the right front side, correct ?. this would mean the front left is further away :).
 
#11 ·
before you go bleeding all lines after you get all the lines tight ?, MAKE SURE YOUR BRAKE SHOES ARE ADJUSTED OUT ALL THE WAY TO THE BRAKE DRUMS ?, then back them off a click or two ?, then start the bleeding process :).
 
#12 · (Edited)
Hey Cajun man yes. I always use a 22oz beer bottle cuz that's what my beer comes in lols. I drain my reservoir down by squeezing just to the point where the reservoir bottom has fluid in it. Minimizes air. I wipe out the sludge and clean the sight glass. Top it with clean fluid. Since I buy a 16oz bottle of brake fluid I'm pretty generous with flushing. I use a hose on the bleeder nut because I don't want to squirt fluid onto anything.

^^^like Shade says and make sure you put your drums back on first
 
#19 ·
I have never replaced one maybe others have. I would be thankful for a thread on that task. Otherwise I wouldn't do it brake master cylinders for my 86 are very hard to find

You see mine is stained on the bottom makes it look low when actually it's full
 

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#20 ·
I have never replaced one maybe others have. I would be thankful for a thread on that task. Otherwise I wouldn't do it brake master cylinders for my 86 are very hard to find
I've replaced a lot of them, mostly on motorcycles ?, but still the same process. nothing to it, beats the crap outta buying a 400 dollar master cylinder !..lol.
 
#21 ·
i'll look to see if I can locate a pic or two of the sight glasses I replaced on my motorcycle ?, been a while sense I looked at them ?.lol.
 
#31 ·
there is also a allen screw set you can buy to use in place of those rusted out, hard to remove screws !, I need to buy me a few sets, and use them on all my atvs, I got them on my motorcycle master cylinders for the clutch and brakes, they make it soooo much easier to remove the covers on them.
 
#35 ·
I've done the Allen screw conversion on anything with a cap/lid on my 300 that originally had those god-awful Phillips screws. Brake reservoir, vacuum plunger cap on the carb (to easily access the fuel needle without removing the carb from the bike), carb bowl, etc.

It's well worth a few bucks to replace them before they strip out.
 
#34 ·
Quote Shade (but if you stop and think for a min ?, the master cylinder is further away from the left side that it is the right front side, correct ?. this would mean the front left is further away :).[/QUOTE]

but , from the master cylinder to the tee it is one hose which is equal , then from the tee the hoses are equal lengths to the cylinders , so being farther away physically has no bearing as the fluid travels the exact same length on both sides ------- on a automobile the tube and hose on the left side are shorter than the ones on the right side and it does make a difference
 
#39 ·
I have had to drill out many of those screws in the master cylinder cap , seems they usually are stuck in the cap as once you drill the beveled head away and get the cap out the way you can grab whats left of the screw with a needle nose vise grip and they come right out
 
#40 ·
been there, done that, they break off down in the master cylinder, lol. out of all the parts to work on ?, those screws are the worst !..lol.
 
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