[shadetree]

that tubes ID is too large for your trx350 ranchers bleeder nipple, they are roughly about 1/8 ID, you should be able to push 1/8 ID down over the bleeder nipple. I never use anything like this, I always just put a drain pan under the brake area, and bleed them like that.

 

[shadetree]

hodge , like you said , on a 300 and most every other atv I have seen , the front brake hoses are the exact same length on the left and the right as the tee is in the middle of the bike , so it really doesn't matter what one is first ------ would have to guess there are some atv's with the tee to one side and one would be longer

but if you stop and think for a min ?, the master cylinder is further away from the left side that it is the right front side, correct ?. this would mean the front left is further away .

 

[shadetree]

that tubes ID is too large for your trx350 ranchers bleeder nipple, they are roughly about 1/8 ID, you should be able to push 1/8 ID down over the bleeder nipple. I never use anything like this, I always just put a drain pan under the brake area, and bleed them like that.

Would a 20 oz. bottle be too large? Forgive my lack of knowledge, but with only using a pan, wouldn't air get in the lines?

don't know about the bottle thing ?. using a pan would not let air get in, if your holding the brake lever, and tighten the bleeder nipple before you release the lever ?!..lol. you ARE bleeding brakes on an atv, correct ??. if so ?, then the pan has nothing to do with air getting into the system. I've done it this way for 20 years, never, not once have I had trouble bleeding brakes, a pan, 10mm or 8mm box wrench, bottle of brake fluid, pair of vise grips, walla, brakes done !. oh, NEVER LET THE MASTER CYLINDER GO EMPTY !!!, this is how you get air back in the system ?, or you leave the bleeder nipple open, and release the brake lever ?..lol.

 

[shadetree]

Would a 20 oz. bottle be too large? Forgive my lack of knowledge, but with only using a pan, wouldn't air get in the lines?

don't know about the bottle thing ?. using a pan would not let air get in, if your holding the brake lever, and tighten the bleeder nipple before you release the lever ?!..lol. you ARE bleeding brakes on an atv, correct ??. if so ?, then the pan has nothing to do with air getting into the system. I've done it this way for 20 years, never, not once have I had trouble bleeding brakes, a pan, 10mm or 8mm box wrench, bottle of brake fluid, pair of vise grips, walla, brakes done !. oh, NEVER LET THE MASTER CYLINDER GO EMPTY !!!, this is how you get air back in the system ?, or you leave the bleeder nipple open, and release the brake lever ?..lol.

yes but I'm wanting to completely flush the old contaminated fluid out first. plus, it's new to me because I've never done a brake job.

don't waste your time !, put a pan under the brake lines, remove the master cylinder cover, open both the brake lines on both sides, let all the old brake fluid drain out, then put the lines back on tight, fill with brake fluid, then start the process of flushing and re-filling with new fluid. there was a sticky in the brake section from me on how to bleed brakes ?, see if it is still there ?. been doing it this way like I said, 20 years ?!..lol.

 

[shadetree]

before you go bleeding all lines after you get all the lines tight ?, MAKE SURE YOUR BRAKE SHOES ARE ADJUSTED OUT ALL THE WAY TO THE BRAKE DRUMS ?, then back them off a click or two ?, then start the bleeding process .

 

[shadetree]

Hey Cajun man yes. I always use a 22oz beer bottle cuz that's what my beer comes in lols. I drain my reservoir down by squeezing just to the point where the reservoir bottom has fluid in it. Minimizes air. I wipe out the sludge and clean the sight glass. Top it with clean fluid. Since I buy a 16oz bottle of brake fluid I'm pretty generous with flushing. I use a hose on the bleeder nut because I don't want to squirt fluid onto anything.

^^^like Shade says and make sure you put your drums back on first

The sight glass on my master cylinder is scratched up in the middle and towards the bottom. Is there a way to repair it?

you have two options, one, which is very high dollar !, replace the whole master cylinder. two, replace the sight glass ?. then can be done a couple ways, either jb welding a dime in there ?, or using a replacement sight glass kit from ebay. you have to search for motorcycle sight glass kits for Honda, but they are all the same when it comes to sight glasses on master cylinders for brakes and clutches .

 

[shadetree]

The sight glass on my master cylinder is scratched up in the middle and towards the bottom. Is there a way to repair it?

you have two options, one, which is very high dollar !, replace the whole master cylinder. two, replace the sight glass ?. then can be done a couple ways, either jb welding a dime in there ?, or using a replacement sight glass kit from ebay. you have to search for motorcycle sight glass kits for Honda, but they are all the same when it comes to sight glasses on master cylinders for brakes and clutches .

Is this one a good replacement?

Brake Master Cylinder Sight Glass for Honda Yamaha Suzuki Kawasaki Motorcycle | eBay

Are they hard to replace?

looks good to me ?, I've used the ones that you have to seal in with sealant, but this one looks like it will do just fine. measure your sight glass hole, and see if it's 18mm ?.

 

[shadetree]

I have never replaced one maybe others have. I would be thankful for a thread on that task. Otherwise I wouldn't do it brake master cylinders for my 86 are very hard to find

I've replaced a lot of them, mostly on motorcycles ?, but still the same process. nothing to it, beats the crap outta buying a 400 dollar master cylinder !..lol.

 

[shadetree]

i'll look to see if I can locate a pic or two of the sight glasses I replaced on my motorcycle ?, been a while sense I looked at them ?.lol.

 

[shadetree]

here is a photo of a front brake master cylinder sight glass I replaced, never leaked.

 

[shadetree]

Is this one a good replacement?

Brake Master Cylinder Sight Glass for Honda Yamaha Suzuki Kawasaki Motorcycle | eBay

Are they hard to replace?

looks good to me ?, I've used the ones that you have to seal in with sealant, but this one looks like it will do just fine. measure your sight glass hole, and see if it's 18mm ?.

I know this is a stupid question LOL but since I'm ignorant about such things, including math LOL, what's the best way to measure them? All I have is a measure tape, and measuring the window across, I know 18mm is way too large. I want to get a correct measurement before I purchase a new one.

I use a digital mic I bought from harbor freight , about 10 bucks ?. it measure in inches and mm .

 

[shadetree]

I used a vernier caliper to measure the inside diameter of the silver ring--and came up with 18 mm--this caliper shows measurements in cm

as I said earlier, most all Honda master cylinders are 18mm.

 

[shadetree]

there is also a allen screw set you can buy to use in place of those rusted out, hard to remove screws !, I need to buy me a few sets, and use them on all my atvs, I got them on my motorcycle master cylinders for the clutch and brakes, they make it soooo much easier to remove the covers on them.

 

[shadetree]

I used a vernier caliper to measure the inside diameter of the silver ring--and came up with 18 mm--this caliper shows measurements in cm

as I said earlier, most all Honda master cylinders are 18mm.

So I should be 95% safe getting that one in the Ebay link?

yep, should fit, read their ebay feedback score before you buy ?!, this says a lot about their products .

 

[shadetree]

there is also a allen screw set you can buy to use in place of those rusted out, hard to remove screws !, I need to buy me a few sets, and use them on all my atvs, I got them on my motorcycle master cylinders for the clutch and brakes, they make it soooo much easier to remove the covers on them.

I've done the Allen screw conversion on anything with a cap/lid on my 300 that originally had those god-awful Phillips screws. Brake reservoir, vacuum plunger cap on the carb (to easily access the fuel needle without removing the carb from the bike), carb bowl, etc.

It's well worth a few bucks to replace them before they strip out.

I agree, those pesky screws are a pain to remove if they have never been removed for some time ?, I always have to use a drift punch and hammer to tap them out, what a pain I tell ya !..lol.

 

[shadetree]

So I should be 95% safe getting that one in the Ebay link?

yep, should fit, read their ebay feedback score before you buy ?!, this says a lot about their products .

Will do So I remove the old one from punching it out from the inside, like that video shows?

the video shows him punching a starter hole out from the inside, but you can do it either way, just don't damage the metal ring ? ( not that it does anything important )..lol.

 

[shadetree]

I have had to drill out many of those screws in the master cylinder cap , seems they usually are stuck in the cap as once you drill the beveled head away and get the cap out the way you can grab whats left of the screw with a needle nose vise grip and they come right out

been there, done that, they break off down in the master cylinder, lol. out of all the parts to work on ?, those screws are the worst !..lol.