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that tubes ID is too large for your trx350 ranchers bleeder nipple, they are roughly about 1/8 ID, you should be able to push 1/8 ID down over the bleeder nipple. I never use anything like this, I always just put a drain pan under the brake area, and bleed them like that.
 
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I use two lengths of clear hose to drain brake fluid into a beer bottle. Put an bend in them to keep air from getting into the nipple and to judge the color of the fluid as it comes out. I use a piece of Velcro strap to keep pressure on the lever. At some point you will want to remove the sludge from the reservoir. I use a clean shop rag and a clean flux (acid) brush. Throw away everything when you're done.

I bleed the short line length first then longest length, so right brake line then left brake

If I'm mistaken someone please lmk
 

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I use two lengths of clear hose to drain brake fluid into a beer bottle. Put an bend in them to keep air from getting into the nipple and to judge the color of the fluid as it comes out. I use a piece of Velcro strap to keep pressure on the lever. At some point you will want to remove the sludge from the reservoir. I use a clean shop rag and a clean flux (acid) brush. Throw away everything when you're done.

I bleed the short line length first then longest length, so right brake line then left brake

If I'm mistaken someone please lmk
I thought that you are supposed to bleed furtherest from the master cylinder, proceeding to closest. On an automobile, that would be right rear, left rear, right front, then left front. I know that on an atv the distance between the two fronts is marginally different, so it may not matter. I bled the front brakes on my 300 left then right, and got all the air out easily. Obviously, the opposite worked for you.
 
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hodge , like you said , on a 300 and most every other atv I have seen , the front brake hoses are the exact same length on the left and the right as the tee is in the middle of the bike , so it really doesn't matter what one is first ------ would have to guess there are some atv's with the tee to one side and one would be longer
 

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hodge , like you said , on a 300 and most every other atv I have seen , the front brake hoses are the exact same length on the left and the right as the tee is in the middle of the bike , so it really doesn't matter what one is first ------ would have to guess there are some atv's with the tee to one side and one would be longer
but if you stop and think for a min ?, the master cylinder is further away from the left side that it is the right front side, correct ?. this would mean the front left is further away :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
that tubes ID is too large for your trx350 ranchers bleeder nipple, they are roughly about 1/8 ID, you should be able to push 1/8 ID down over the bleeder nipple. I never use anything like this, I always just put a drain pan under the brake area, and bleed them like that.

Would a 20 oz. bottle be too large? Forgive my lack of knowledge, but with only using a pan, wouldn't air get in the lines?
 

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that tubes ID is too large for your trx350 ranchers bleeder nipple, they are roughly about 1/8 ID, you should be able to push 1/8 ID down over the bleeder nipple. I never use anything like this, I always just put a drain pan under the brake area, and bleed them like that.

Would a 20 oz. bottle be too large? Forgive my lack of knowledge, but with only using a pan, wouldn't air get in the lines?
don't know about the bottle thing ?. using a pan would not let air get in, if your holding the brake lever, and tighten the bleeder nipple before you release the lever ?!..lol. you ARE bleeding brakes on an atv, correct ??. if so ?, then the pan has nothing to do with air getting into the system. I've done it this way for 20 years, never, not once have I had trouble bleeding brakes, a pan, 10mm or 8mm box wrench, bottle of brake fluid, pair of vise grips, walla, brakes done !. oh, NEVER LET THE MASTER CYLINDER GO EMPTY !!!, this is how you get air back in the system ?, or you leave the bleeder nipple open, and release the brake lever ?..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
that tubes ID is too large for your trx350 ranchers bleeder nipple, they are roughly about 1/8 ID, you should be able to push 1/8 ID down over the bleeder nipple. I never use anything like this, I always just put a drain pan under the brake area, and bleed them like that.

Would a 20 oz. bottle be too large? Forgive my lack of knowledge, but with only using a pan, wouldn't air get in the lines?
don't know about the bottle thing ?. using a pan would not let air get in, if your holding the brake lever, and tighten the bleeder nipple before you release the lever ?!..lol. you ARE bleeding brakes on an atv, correct ??. if so ?, then the pan has nothing to do with air getting into the system. I've done it this way for 20 years, never, not once have I had trouble bleeding brakes, a pan, 10mm or 8mm box wrench, bottle of brake fluid, pair of vise grips, walla, brakes done !. oh, NEVER LET THE MASTER CYLINDER GO EMPTY !!!, this is how you get air back in the system ?, or you leave the bleeder nipple open, and release the brake lever ?..lol.
yes but I'm wanting to completely flush the old contaminated fluid out first. plus, it's new to me because I've never done a brake job.
 

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Would a 20 oz. bottle be too large? Forgive my lack of knowledge, but with only using a pan, wouldn't air get in the lines?
don't know about the bottle thing ?. using a pan would not let air get in, if your holding the brake lever, and tighten the bleeder nipple before you release the lever ?!..lol. you ARE bleeding brakes on an atv, correct ??. if so ?, then the pan has nothing to do with air getting into the system. I've done it this way for 20 years, never, not once have I had trouble bleeding brakes, a pan, 10mm or 8mm box wrench, bottle of brake fluid, pair of vise grips, walla, brakes done !. oh, NEVER LET THE MASTER CYLINDER GO EMPTY !!!, this is how you get air back in the system ?, or you leave the bleeder nipple open, and release the brake lever ?..lol.
yes but I'm wanting to completely flush the old contaminated fluid out first. plus, it's new to me because I've never done a brake job.
don't waste your time !, put a pan under the brake lines, remove the master cylinder cover, open both the brake lines on both sides, let all the old brake fluid drain out, then put the lines back on tight, fill with brake fluid, then start the process of flushing and re-filling with new fluid. there was a sticky in the brake section from me on how to bleed brakes ?, see if it is still there ?. been doing it this way like I said, 20 years ?!..lol.
 

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before you go bleeding all lines after you get all the lines tight ?, MAKE SURE YOUR BRAKE SHOES ARE ADJUSTED OUT ALL THE WAY TO THE BRAKE DRUMS ?, then back them off a click or two ?, then start the bleeding process :).
 

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Hey Cajun man yes. I always use a 22oz beer bottle cuz that's what my beer comes in lols. I drain my reservoir down by squeezing just to the point where the reservoir bottom has fluid in it. Minimizes air. I wipe out the sludge and clean the sight glass. Top it with clean fluid. Since I buy a 16oz bottle of brake fluid I'm pretty generous with flushing. I use a hose on the bleeder nut because I don't want to squirt fluid onto anything.

^^^like Shade says and make sure you put your drums back on first
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey Cajun man yes. I always use a 22oz beer bottle cuz that's what my beer comes in lols. I drain my reservoir down by squeezing just to the point where the reservoir bottom has fluid in it. Minimizes air. I wipe out the sludge and clean the sight glass. Top it with clean fluid. Since I buy a 16oz bottle of brake fluid I'm pretty generous with flushing. I use a hose on the bleeder nut because I don't want to squirt fluid onto anything.

^^^like Shade says and make sure you put your drums back on first
The sight glass on my master cylinder is scratched up in the middle and towards the bottom. Is there a way to repair it?
 

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Hey Cajun man yes. I always use a 22oz beer bottle cuz that's what my beer comes in lols. I drain my reservoir down by squeezing just to the point where the reservoir bottom has fluid in it. Minimizes air. I wipe out the sludge and clean the sight glass. Top it with clean fluid. Since I buy a 16oz bottle of brake fluid I'm pretty generous with flushing. I use a hose on the bleeder nut because I don't want to squirt fluid onto anything.

^^^like Shade says and make sure you put your drums back on first
The sight glass on my master cylinder is scratched up in the middle and towards the bottom. Is there a way to repair it?
you have two options, one, which is very high dollar !, replace the whole master cylinder. two, replace the sight glass ?. then can be done a couple ways, either jb welding a dime in there ?, or using a replacement sight glass kit from ebay. you have to search for motorcycle sight glass kits for Honda, but they are all the same when it comes to sight glasses on master cylinders for brakes and clutches :).
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey Cajun man yes. I always use a 22oz beer bottle cuz that's what my beer comes in lols. I drain my reservoir down by squeezing just to the point where the reservoir bottom has fluid in it. Minimizes air. I wipe out the sludge and clean the sight glass. Top it with clean fluid. Since I buy a 16oz bottle of brake fluid I'm pretty generous with flushing. I use a hose on the bleeder nut because I don't want to squirt fluid onto anything.

^^^like Shade says and make sure you put your drums back on first
The sight glass on my master cylinder is scratched up in the middle and towards the bottom. Is there a way to repair it?
you have two options, one, which is very high dollar !, replace the whole master cylinder. two, replace the sight glass ?. then can be done a couple ways, either jb welding a dime in there ?, or using a replacement sight glass kit from ebay. you have to search for motorcycle sight glass kits for Honda, but they are all the same when it comes to sight glasses on master cylinders for brakes and clutches :).

Is this one a good replacement?

Brake Master Cylinder Sight Glass for Honda Yamaha Suzuki Kawasaki Motorcycle | eBay

Are they hard to replace?
 

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The sight glass on my master cylinder is scratched up in the middle and towards the bottom. Is there a way to repair it?
you have two options, one, which is very high dollar !, replace the whole master cylinder. two, replace the sight glass ?. then can be done a couple ways, either jb welding a dime in there ?, or using a replacement sight glass kit from ebay. you have to search for motorcycle sight glass kits for Honda, but they are all the same when it comes to sight glasses on master cylinders for brakes and clutches :).

Is this one a good replacement?

Brake Master Cylinder Sight Glass for Honda Yamaha Suzuki Kawasaki Motorcycle | eBay

Are they hard to replace?
looks good to me ?, I've used the ones that you have to seal in with sealant, but this one looks like it will do just fine. measure your sight glass hole, and see if it's 18mm ?.
 

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I have never replaced one maybe others have. I would be thankful for a thread on that task. Otherwise I wouldn't do it brake master cylinders for my 86 are very hard to find

You see mine is stained on the bottom makes it look low when actually it's full
 

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I have never replaced one maybe others have. I would be thankful for a thread on that task. Otherwise I wouldn't do it brake master cylinders for my 86 are very hard to find
I've replaced a lot of them, mostly on motorcycles ?, but still the same process. nothing to it, beats the crap outta buying a 400 dollar master cylinder !..lol.
 
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