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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
88 fourtrax 300. how much oil does it hold anyways????


i had noticed a little metal on metal sound while riding, and when going up hill thru a trail getting on it, it would cut out and lose power. and then it finally lost all the power and was ideling kinda high but when i hit the throttle it would die out and kinda just idle with short revs.

i though it was carb related, got to spraying carb cleaner around, after a few mins of sitting it went back to normal. okay, went up that same hill, happend again. so i went to check the oil, barely hitting the dip stick (doh) so i put some more in, problem went away immediately, no more cutting out on the hill.

i just found it kinda cool that it wont let me just blow the motor with running it dry, the oil light did not come on tho.


so how much is it supposed to have in it anyways??? i put 1.5 quarts in at first (thought thats what it held) added another half and its half way on the dip stick.
 

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i just found it kinda cool that it wont let me just blow the motor with running it dry, the oil light did not come on tho.
It will, you just got lucky. The oil light only comes on when the oil temperature is high and it won't work at all if there's no oil touching the thermo sensor.

so how much is it supposed to have in it anyways??? i put 1.5 quarts in at first (thought thats what it held) added another half and its half way on the dip stick.
If it's completely dry, it will hold 2.6 quarts.
 

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88 fourtrax 300. how much oil does it hold anyways????


i had noticed a little metal on metal sound while riding, and when going up hill thru a trail getting on it, it would cut out and lose power. and then it finally lost all the power and was ideling kinda high but when i hit the throttle it would die out and kinda just idle with short revs.

i though it was carb related, got to spraying carb cleaner around, after a few mins of sitting it went back to normal. okay, went up that same hill, happend again. so i went to check the oil, barely hitting the dip stick (doh) so i put some more in, problem went away immediately, no more cutting out on the hill.

i just found it kinda cool that it wont let me just blow the motor with running it dry, the oil light did not come on tho.


so how much is it supposed to have in it anyways??? i put 1.5 quarts in at first (thought thats what it held) added another half and its half way on the dip stick.
they hold close to 2 quarts..as for your sound you hear...sounds like your oil pump is about to go on a coffee break !..you need to pull your valve caps off..and inspect the cam and valve area..make sure your getting oil up to them...you can start the motor with the caps off..and watch to see if your getting oil to the cam and valves ?..if not..your oil pump is either blocked..or dieing.
 

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you need to pull your valve caps off..and inspect the cam and valve area..make sure your getting oil up to them...you can start the motor with the caps off..and watch to see if your getting oil to the cam and valves ?
An easier way to see if you're getting oil to the top of the head is to just loosen the bolt that holds the external oil line to the valve cover and crank the engine over. If it's pumping oil should come out around the bolt. Don't forget to turn the kill switch to the "off" position, you don't want the engine to start while you're checking it.
 

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you need to pull your valve caps off..and inspect the cam and valve area..make sure your getting oil up to them...you can start the motor with the caps off..and watch to see if your getting oil to the cam and valves ?
An easier way to see if you're getting oil to the top of the head is to just loosen the bolt that holds the external oil line to the valve cover and crank the engine over. If it's pumping oil should come out around the bolt. Don't forget to turn the kill switch to the "off" position, you don't want the engine to start while you're checking it.
yeah..i thought of that oil line..but..i wanted him to check the valve and cam to make sure he didnt do any damage already..but.yes..you can take the oil line off the top side of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ha, now other issuies.....busted the rear end. i think. pulled it off, oil looked to to speckled with metal flakes, inside the drive shaft (spline area i guess???) there was a bunch of pieces of metal. its getting dark so i could not see but it feel like most of the main gear splines were intact from feel. the splines on the drive shaft and the rear look okay, well there all there. the rear has some play/slop to it tho, and with it drained and off the 4wheeler it catches some times when i roll it and binds.


is it going to need a complete rebuild??? and well id rather just try and find the foreman 350 ????? rear end with the solid axle tube and brake by the wheel.

ahhhh. what do you guys think is wrong with it???
 

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what do you guys think is wrong with it???
Same thing that usually happens to the Fourtrax 300 rear end, the axle bearings went out and let the axle move and probably damaged the gears. If it didn't tear the gears up too bad or damage the end of the pinion shaft, you can just replace the two diff bearings and the both pinion bearings and the bearing in the backing plate.

Grab the end of the pinion shaft, where the driveshaft splines on, and see if you can wiggle it side to side. If it wiggles much, the other end of the pinion shaft, down in the diff where the needle bearing is, is probably damaged too much and the pinion shaft and ring gear will need to be replaced along with all the bearings and seals:$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yea the pinion shaft has some play to it. yes, i good bit i would say, more than a rear end needs.


ha i looked on ebay, 490.00 just for a 300 diff. 300 for a complete rancher rear end. diff, axle, swing arm, everything but the shock.

is it the rancher rear end i need??? i might just keep an eye out on craigslist and just try and find a parts back and swap the whole rear all together. would probably come out cheaper and have a stronger diff.
 

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No, the Rancher rear end won't fit.
 

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yea its the foreman, okay not i know what im looking for.
Yeah, you need the rear end from an '86-'89 Fourtrax/Foreman 350 if you're going to convert it to the full axle tube. Keep in mind that you have to have the axle tube and all, not just the diff.

how much to rebuild what i have???
It depends on if you need the gears or not. The gears, pinion shaft, diff bearings and seals, and pinion bearing and seals will run about $600 from the dealer. That doesn't include the bearing and seal in the brake backing plate. Sometimes, if the gears aren't too bad, you can reuse them. The small end of the pinion shaft is usually the biggest problem. The needle bearing goes out and wears the end of the shaft where it fits in the needle bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
dang!!!! and it will probably keep wearing out, my hub was welded but it is a little crooked so its probably doing a lot of damage to the diff with all the up and down motion of the tire.


and yea ive been looking at the whole rear ends, i think i have heard they are 2 inch wider and well like i said my hub is crooked so a new complete rear would be nice. i think i can swap the 250 big red rear end out too ???


but yea i think im just gonna swap rear ends with a beefer one, thanks for the year range. having a hard time finding some of them.
 

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'86-'89 are the years that they were sold in the US. I think they were sold in Canada up until about '92.

Yeah, you're right, the 250 Big Red rear in can be modified to fit, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i need to get on highlifter and do some research. from what i remember the foreman is the stronger unit, and give its a little wider that is a plus. and then i think the rancher diff has the longer gears in it (thats for further planing down the road if i ever put a turbo on it) but is the rancher diff as strong as the foreman???? research, research, research.



and to top it off, yesterday, i busted the brake line or something inside of the hub, lost pressure and fluid was coming out of the hub, the hub that i cant seem to get off. haha DANG.
 

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and to top it off, yesterday, i busted the brake line or something inside of the hub, lost pressure and fluid was coming out of the hub, the hub that i cant seem to get off. haha DANG.
If it's leaking on the inside of the hub, it's the wheel cylinder that's leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
the wheel has a cylinder?????? haha............no really it does?? but yea i blew that thing out....apperently you CAN lock them to tight and it just gave way. and i have no back brakes....man!!! i guess i should have just left them alone huh???? haha



disk brakes would be so cool...............but $$$$$$$$..............on day!!!
 
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