[Arthur1957]

I was hoping someone could give me some advice. I have a 2004 Rancher with 3400 miles. The front end has a very loud squeal going on. I jacked up the front and when I turn the wheels by hand I can hear the squeal? Is this the ball bearings that need replacing?? No mudding by the way, but never changed in 3400 miles.

Thanks

 

[wheelsquad]

My 2004 Rancher used to be the exact same way. Ended up being very dry front drum seals. Pull the wheels off, then castle nuts, then pull the drums off and check the seals. I just grease between the 2 main outer seal lips.

 

[Arthur1957]

Thanks Wheelsquad - I appreciate it. The bearings seem fine when I pull on the tires, very little play. Was just not sure what the issue was but will try that! Best to you!

 

[wheelsquad]

Thanks Wheelsquad - I appreciate it. The bearings seem fine when I pull on the tires, very little play. Was just not sure what the issue was but will try that! Best to you!

No problem. Please report back if that fixed it for you or not. Screenshot of where in the manual that it says the brake seals need to be greased.

And welcome to the forum.

 

[Arthur1957]

Wheelsquad - Thanks for sharing that pic as well, it was very helpful. I got it all greased and the squeal is gone. Hopefully for quite some time - lol. The only issue i ran into was the brake drum was very difficult to not only pull off the spline but to put back in place as well. It seemed like it was getting stuck somehow other than simply sliding on and off. On the second front tire I couldn't get it to come off at all but had enough room to grease the seals nonetheless. Any advice on why the brake drum are hard to take off and put back on?

thanks again!

 

[shadetree]

brake shoes are holding the drum on, you will need to screw them in from the access hole, but this will be hard to do if the adjusters are rusted over.

 

[Arthur1957]

Thanks Shadetree. That makes sense to me, although I didn't know what that access hole was even for until now? I suspect it's not lined up where it's supposed to be so that I can get to that screw as I have had the drums off previously and never knew I had to put them back on in a certain way so the hole lined up with the screw. I am certain there is no rust. I actually did get the one side off and it looks almost new inside believe it or not. Never in water or mud etc.

Thanks again.

 

[wheelsquad]

Thanks Shadetree. That makes sense to me, although I didn't know what that access hole was even for until now? I suspect it's not lined up where it's supposed to be so that I can get to that screw as I have had the drums off previously and never knew I had to put them back on in a certain way so the hole lined up with the screw. I am certain there is no rust. I actually did get the one side off and it looks almost new inside believe it or not. Never in water or mud etc.

Thanks again.

You don't need to put them on a certain way to align with the screw. Just rotate the wheel/hub when it is on there, watch through the hole, and you'll see it come into view.

 

[shadetree]

Thanks Shadetree. That makes sense to me, although I didn't know what that access hole was even for until now? I suspect it's not lined up where it's supposed to be so that I can get to that screw as I have had the drums off previously and never knew I had to put them back on in a certain way so the hole lined up with the screw. I am certain there is no rust. I actually did get the one side off and it looks almost new inside believe it or not. Never in water or mud etc.

Thanks again.

as wheels pointed out ^^^^, makes no difference how or where you install the break drum ?, all you need to do is pull the rubber plug ( if its still there ? ), spin the drum or wheel, line the hole up with the adjusters. if you look in with a flash light, you will notice on the wheel cylinders, right there where the star wheel adjuster is, there is a arrow pointing one way ?, this is to expand the break shoes when you have the drum on. turning them the other way will back the adjuster down to bring the shoes inward, now you can remove the break drum, that's if...the wheel bearings are seized ?, other than that..its pretty simple. as I said..most times...those adjusters rust over..and can be a royal pain to get unstuck..spec if they have never been serviced ??!!.

 

[shadetree]

also..pay attention to the arrows !!..one side is left hand threads..other side of atv is right hand threads on those adjusters !.

 

[Danno_79]

I have the same issue on 2005 TRX350 ES 2 wheel drive. Could this be same issue? The sound comes and goes. I when it starts it last from about 9mph to 22mph, over or under it stays away????

 

[shadetree]

I have the same issue on 2005 TRX350 ES 2 wheel drive. Could this be same issue? The sound comes and goes. I when it starts it last from about 9mph to 22mph, over or under it stays away????

very well could be.

 

[Danno_79]

Thanks will try recommendations and report back.

 

[Arthur1957]

Thanks guys, yes, I figured I could spin the drum around so I could see through to get where it's needed. Will try this next weekend!

 

[retro]

Assuming the brake adjusters are installed right, insert your blade to grab the star wheel and move your hand toward the center of the drum to tighten the brake shoes against the drum. Move your hand toward the outer diameter of the drum to loosen the brake shoes. Its the same on every Honda ATV.