Joined
·
10 Posts
I just made my first post here: https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...oined-looking-help-my-2006-honda-rancher.html
Looking or help with my 06 Rancher
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Joined
·
10 Posts
Yes to all that. Everything works as it should, simply won't turn over electronically. I can pull start, hot wire, jump the solenoid etc. it always starts/runs just fine.
Joined
·
10 Posts
When I shift out of neutral and push the starter button, the neutral light flashes indicating to the user it needs to be in neutral to start. Here's a video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fhAGxU8m2cauQ6NR9
Joined
·
10 Posts
I'm not sure on the exact model (is there a place to find that?). I bought it used and never got any paperwork, etc. with it.
The entire handlebar switch assembly was replaced, no modifications were done. It's still 100% OEM Honda except for non-consequential things (it has a manual plow, I took the racks off and had them sand-blasted and powder-coated, new tires, etc.)
I'm very against doing anything custom to electronics because it's always such a mess, so as far as I know (perhaps someone before me did something) it's 100% OEM. Maybe three years ago it was professionally tuned by the local deal, and it's always ran great, etc.
The entire handlebar switch assembly was replaced, no modifications were done. It's still 100% OEM Honda except for non-consequential things (it has a manual plow, I took the racks off and had them sand-blasted and powder-coated, new tires, etc.)
I'm very against doing anything custom to electronics because it's always such a mess, so as far as I know (perhaps someone before me did something) it's 100% OEM. Maybe three years ago it was professionally tuned by the local deal, and it's always ran great, etc.
Was the replacement handlebar switches assembly a Honda part number? We need to be certain up front of what is on the bike... we can't fix china knockoffs so thats why you're receiving a gazillion questions.
Is your Rancher a manual shift model? You shift it with your foot in other words...
Is your Rancher a manual shift model? You shift it with your foot in other words...
Joined
·
10 Posts
As demonstrated in the video it's an electronic shift (with your left thumb there's an up and down button), no shifting with your feet at all.
As with all my stuff I buy factory OEM (or better in the case of Moog in my trucks, etc.), so the part came from the dealer and should be 100% A-OK.
I'm thinking it's not the handlebar switches or anything because when it's in gear the neutral light flashes every time I push the starter button (as shown in the video).
I'm quite sure there's power, contact and the circuit is working, I think there's just some other safety switch that's preventing it from electronically starting (pull starting works just fine every time).
As with all my stuff I buy factory OEM (or better in the case of Moog in my trucks, etc.), so the part came from the dealer and should be 100% A-OK.
I'm thinking it's not the handlebar switches or anything because when it's in gear the neutral light flashes every time I push the starter button (as shown in the video).
I'm quite sure there's power, contact and the circuit is working, I think there's just some other safety switch that's preventing it from electronically starting (pull starting works just fine every time).
Open the fuse box and on the left side, end of the row of fuses, there is a diode plugged in. Unplug that diode. You'll see two spade terminal sockets in the bottom of the fuse box that the diode plugs into.
Using either a test light or a multimeter, check that the diode terminal socket nearest to the row of fuses is supplying a ground while the ignition switch is on and the trans is in neutral. The neutral light in the display should be on as well.
Then move your test lead to the other diode terminal socket in the fuse box and check that you see positive battery voltage (+ 12.xx volts) there when you depress the start button.
Plug the diode back in and report back with those test findings.
Using either a test light or a multimeter, check that the diode terminal socket nearest to the row of fuses is supplying a ground while the ignition switch is on and the trans is in neutral. The neutral light in the display should be on as well.
Then move your test lead to the other diode terminal socket in the fuse box and check that you see positive battery voltage (+ 12.xx volts) there when you depress the start button.
Plug the diode back in and report back with those test findings.
If you have a multimeter handy check for continuity (ohms scale) between the two terminals of the diode itself. Then swap the two multimeter leads on the diode terminals and check for continuity again.
There should be continuity in one direction, but no continuity in the other direction. Let me know if you see resistance measured in both directions through that diode. I'm already guessing that its a shorting diode ya got there....
There should be continuity in one direction, but no continuity in the other direction. Let me know if you see resistance measured in both directions through that diode. I'm already guessing that its a shorting diode ya got there....
Joined
·
10 Posts
Success, sorta.
So I put everything back together, and it wouldn't start electronically (the quad would always start with the pull starter and run without issue, no exception here). Pulled everything apart again, pulled the diode, started testing and the ground testing worked, but nothing else did. Started looking around a bit more and then everything worked again!
I assumed at this point it was a loose wire, and pulling the fuse box/wires all around made/broke the connection. I decided to take it for a drive, vibrate everything around a bit, and the fault condition was induced, it wouldn't electronically turn over. As it got darker out I noticed I didn't have head-lights (and I did prior when things were working correctly), so I'm assuming they are on the same circuit as the starter rely, somewhere/somehow.
So I can start pulling apart the wiring harness in/around the battery area looking for something obvious, but without seeing a broken wire sparking, it's more needle in a hay-stack.
Thanks for all your help so far, any more advise would be great!
-Andrew
I took the seat off, un-snapped the fuse box, pulled it up out of the battery area. Following your very detailed directions the results worked as expected, the ground worked, switch provided power, etc. While testing (my wife was helping) the button/electric start worked as it should, with and without the diode in the fuse box.
The diode worked as it should and only allowed current in one direction.If you have a multimeter handy check for continuity (ohms scale) between the two terminals of the diode itself. Then swap the two multimeter leads on the diode terminals and check for continuity again.
There should be continuity in one direction, but no continuity in the other direction. Let me know if you see resistance measured in both directions through that diode. I'm already guessing that its a shorting diode ya got there....
So I put everything back together, and it wouldn't start electronically (the quad would always start with the pull starter and run without issue, no exception here). Pulled everything apart again, pulled the diode, started testing and the ground testing worked, but nothing else did. Started looking around a bit more and then everything worked again!
I assumed at this point it was a loose wire, and pulling the fuse box/wires all around made/broke the connection. I decided to take it for a drive, vibrate everything around a bit, and the fault condition was induced, it wouldn't electronically turn over. As it got darker out I noticed I didn't have head-lights (and I did prior when things were working correctly), so I'm assuming they are on the same circuit as the starter rely, somewhere/somehow.
So I can start pulling apart the wiring harness in/around the battery area looking for something obvious, but without seeing a broken wire sparking, it's more needle in a hay-stack.
Thanks for all your help so far, any more advise would be great!
-Andrew
Yeah that exercise helped us a bunch, even though it isn't fixed yet. Lets talk about that handlebar switches assembly that was replaced... was that replaced in relation to this no-start issue occurring? Did this issue begin before or after those switches were replaced?
I feel like the next move should be checking out those new switches harness connector plugs (and its sub-harness) under the front fender. Insure that the new switches assembly sub-harness is routed properly... that it is not being pulled on or stretched taut when you turn the handlebar full lock right & left. Look for signs of cutting/pinching damage where the sheath loops over & contacts the frame brackets.
Unplug the sub-harness connector from the main wiring harness and inspect both halves for any corroded terminal pins, dirt or moisture inside, etc. If you have any dielectric grease handy coat those connectors good to weatherproof them when you plug them back in.
While you are fiddling around under the front fender area loosen & retighten the harness ground (green wire, ring terminal) bolt located about 3 or 4 inches back from the CDI module on the right side of the frame. You'll probably have to take the inner fender splash shield off to find that ground bolt.
If your issue still exists after checking those things out then we gotta diagnose why the starter button is intermittently sending battery voltage to the solenoid. Whether its a bad button switch, a broken wire in the harness, or a bad solenoid connector plug.
FYI, the main 30 amp fuse in the fuse box supplies power to every circuit on the bike except for the ESP shift motor. The shift motor has its own 30 amp fuse.
Keep the updates coming if you can...
I feel like the next move should be checking out those new switches harness connector plugs (and its sub-harness) under the front fender. Insure that the new switches assembly sub-harness is routed properly... that it is not being pulled on or stretched taut when you turn the handlebar full lock right & left. Look for signs of cutting/pinching damage where the sheath loops over & contacts the frame brackets.
Unplug the sub-harness connector from the main wiring harness and inspect both halves for any corroded terminal pins, dirt or moisture inside, etc. If you have any dielectric grease handy coat those connectors good to weatherproof them when you plug them back in.
While you are fiddling around under the front fender area loosen & retighten the harness ground (green wire, ring terminal) bolt located about 3 or 4 inches back from the CDI module on the right side of the frame. You'll probably have to take the inner fender splash shield off to find that ground bolt.
If your issue still exists after checking those things out then we gotta diagnose why the starter button is intermittently sending battery voltage to the solenoid. Whether its a bad button switch, a broken wire in the harness, or a bad solenoid connector plug.
FYI, the main 30 amp fuse in the fuse box supplies power to every circuit on the bike except for the ESP shift motor. The shift motor has its own 30 amp fuse.
Keep the updates coming if you can...
Before you leave the battery area take each one of the fuses out and inspect the spade terminals of each for signs of them getting hot. They'll be discolored if they got hot... not shiny anymore. When plugging each one back into its socket make sure the terminals feel like they are fitting in the sockets snugly. Also open the two-wire solenoid connector and make sure those look like they are in good health before snapping them back together.
You have an intermittent connection somewhere so this issue should be easy to fix once its found. And we'll find it.
You have an intermittent connection somewhere so this issue should be easy to fix once its found. And we'll find it.
Joined
·
10 Posts
Thanks for all the help and advise! I'm 99% confident the connection issue is in the battery area, because the results change as I pull out and put back everything. While it could be the handlebar switch assembly, it's been working fine for ~2 years (so has everything technically).
Several of the wires are wrapped in electrical tape, etc. so I'm thinking I would start there. Part of the challenge is you can't test much without pulling all the stuff out, but it's been working with everything out, etc.
Several of the wires are wrapped in electrical tape, etc. so I'm thinking I would start there. Part of the challenge is you can't test much without pulling all the stuff out, but it's been working with everything out, etc.
On my 06 Foreman for awhile I had an iffy main fuse connection in the fuse box.
Fuse was good, and I had power going into the fuse, and coming out of the fuse, but the side of the fuse that fed power to the wiring harness wasn't making a good connection with the "out" side of the fuse box wire, so good fuse, power on both sides, but power wasn't going out of the fuse box.
I took a test light and checked for power on both wires for each fuse with the key on. That's how I finally figured out what the problem was. I cut the wires going into the fuse box for that circuit and put an in-line fuse on them.
Fuse was good, and I had power going into the fuse, and coming out of the fuse, but the side of the fuse that fed power to the wiring harness wasn't making a good connection with the "out" side of the fuse box wire, so good fuse, power on both sides, but power wasn't going out of the fuse box.
I took a test light and checked for power on both wires for each fuse with the key on. That's how I finally figured out what the problem was. I cut the wires going into the fuse box for that circuit and put an in-line fuse on them.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
