[mech_E_mike]

So I'm in the midst of fixing up a 1986 TRX350 and it's looking like I'm not going to be able to afford to get all the parts I need to get it rideable for at least a few months.

Since it will probably be sitting in my unheated garage for maybe 4-6 fall/winter months, I'd like to make sure the battery won't die and the fuel won't gum up all the plumbing. The manual says the following:

1. Change oil/filter
2. Drain the gas tank and carb and spray the tank with rust inhibitor
3. Take off the spark plug and pour a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder and cycle it around with the starter a few times
4. Remove the battery, store it where it won't see freezing temps, and charge it once a month

So my three questions to you, oh wise ATV enthusiasts:hail:, are:
1. Does this look like an effective/worthwhile list of things to do?
2. Is there a way to drain the fuel tank without siphoning it out the top?
3. How do I drain the carb?

Oh and would WD-40 work as a rust inhibitor?

Any input would be appreciated!

 

[Pain]

I won't answer all the questions because I don't know the answer , but while we wait I will tell you the poor man and/or lazy mans procedure, from when I had a dirt bike that would sit for long periods of time.

It had no fuel pump, so it will be harder with your atv, but I would just shut off the gas and let it run until the engine cut off, effectively draining the carb. I'd then use the kick start to turn the engine over to the compression stroke. That's it. I didn't even put stabilizer in the gas, but would now if I had it to do over again. Maybe disconnecting the battery wouldn't be a bad idea either, but I never did.

I'm sure that's not the best procedure, but it worked for me and the bike always started right up for me, and I didn't have to go through all the other procedure.

This is more or less what I do with my lawn mowers, too, just let them run out of gas or shut the gas off and let them run, then pull them over to the compression stroke and I'm done.

I did mention it was the lazy mans approach, though.

 

[Redracer]

If you add fuel stabilizer to it you shouldn't have to drain the tank. Like Pain said, turn the gas off and let it run out of gas. That will empty your carb. You could even leave the battery attached but put a trickle charger on it.

 

[Saber6]

I agree^^^^^^^^^

 

[69quadracer]

If you add fuel stabilizer to it you shouldn't have to drain the tank. Like Pain said, turn the gas off and let it run out of gas. That will empty your carb. You could even leave the battery attached but put a trickle charger on it.

Like Redracer said if you use fuel stablizer in the fuel tank you won't have to drain it but let it run and get into the carb before you turn the fuel off so the stablizer can coat the inside of the carb you will have less fuel deposits causing varnishing in the bowl and internal parts.

 

[tomgodd]

100% AGREE^^^ With these guys!

 

[mech_E_mike]

Thanks for all the responses! I probably should have been able to figure out shutting off the gas to drain the carb.

 

[tomgodd]

We are always happy to help!!!

 

[Redracer]

Thanks for all the responses! I probably should have been able to figure out shutting off the gas to drain the carb.

People I race with don't think to do that. It's not as common as you think. Most people think above the easiest method...damn over-thinkers! I'm one.

 

[tomgodd]

Sometimes it pays to be simple!! My dad is one. If i start something I read on it make sure I have a good Idea of what I am getting into and Usually find out books are wrong or not accurate. And I usually have a well thought out plan of attack for no reason.

 

[mech_E_mike]

So... a month later when I've finally got around to doing this, I have another situation/question:

I put the fuel stabilizer in and mixed it around, then ran the engine for a while and reved it up a bit to try to get the stabilizer all around the carb. I tried to let it run dry by shutting off the fuel (using the dial on the side that has "on - off - reserve" positions) but it didn't run out. I tried letting it run for 5 or 10 minutes and it wouldn't cut out or even sputter.

How long should it take to cut out once you've turned the dial to "off"?

Will the stabilizer be enough to keep the carb clean or should I keep trying to run it dry?

Am I missing something obvious?

On the brighter side... I got myself a honda repair manual, so someday when I can afford new parts I'll be ready!

 

[Pain]

This machine has a fuel pump, so the petcock might be worn enough to allow some fuel through. But, it may still take a bit of time to run out of fuel even if the petcock is closing properly, but 5-10 minutes seems excessive to me and I would expect there is something else going on. You might try to remove the plug for the pump.

The wire runs from the pump, up about 8 inches under the right side plastic fender beside the air breather. If you pull the seat off, unscrew the bolt holding the fender in place, you will be able to pull the fender away and reach the plug for the fuel pump. Unplug it and then let it run until it dies.

If you're only talking about several months until you work on it again, you may not even have to do this, but it won't hurt.

 

[mech_E_mike]

Thanks, maybe I'll try that.

I'm thinking I probably won't have it out and running again for a good 6 months or so.

 

[TRX2fiveO]

I agree^^^^^^^ or you could just go out once a week and start it up for about 10 to 15 min. and you won't have to do anything.

 

[moto134]

take your fuel line off the gas tank or fuel pump then run it dry.i would take the battery out of the bike and put it in your house.a couple shots of wd 40 will work in the cylinder then tap the starter a couple times.

 

[mud99]

I use stay build in my generator and start it once a mounth and turn the fuel off and run it out. and I havent had aney problems out of it.

 

[flcb7]

You could come bring me the atv and I'd ride it every day!...lol...4real I would