Yeah, that's probably going to be the best thing to do. Just try them and see which works best in your engine.
one would have to do a UOA of the oil to get an accurate "what works best in your motor"
if you look at the VOA's (virgin analysis of new oil) you will see the yamalube and the honda lube have practically no goodies in it. for that price its just not cost worthy imo.. the HDEO shell rotella T6 5w40 is nothing short of awesome. what makes it better? its wet clutch approved JASO-MA .. plus its as much as the dino honda oil if not cheaper. far far better addtive package, more robust and far better wear protection.
I agree with Submarine on this one.
just giving you guys a cheaper and better option for your atv oil is all :icon_cool:... the oils the manufacters sell are nothing great. and for the price it makes it worse esp if you are cost vs return type of person. remember they bid to the lowest cost so dont expect much. this like mentioned before falls back on the quality of the atv's motor as well. seems like some you can put olive oil in there and it will run great for years. props to any manufacturer that builds such a quality machine. however, since most of these machines are air cooled the stress on the oil (along with the gears) really puts triple the strain on oil. the rotella as proven, has taken this abuse with room to spare. most manufactuer oils dont even compare. lots of farmers, truckers and other small engine abusers rely on the this oil a lot due to the cost vs return. just something to think about is all
I'm not saying that Rotella is not better oil than honda. The U.S. Army did a study also several years back and it was on new oil and old oil. They compared chemicial breakdown of each after a set number of running hours and found that the breakdown of the same type of oil in the same (NEW) engine was completely different. What caused this is the engines can come off the assembly line one right after another but because of the wear on the bits of the milling machines no two engines have the same tolerances. So to have a oil preform at its best it would have to be designed completly to that single engine. In one case the assembly line built one of their engines and shut down for the weekend and replaced a wore bit that machined the crank. after comparing the last engine of the friday shutdown to the engine of the start up the folling week there was a well marked increase in tolerances. Therefore a lower viscosity oil was needed for the startup engine. so what they found is no peticular oil lubricates the same in any one engine. They found that some parts with the lowest tolerances were prematurely failing because of a thinner oil while some were not getting enough oil due to the oil not being able to penetrate the areas of high tolerances well. so what oil is right for one engine may very well not be right for the next.......But that is their conclusion.?
that last part i think is untrue. it will only be true if you over use the oil (extended drains). which i would hope most of us do not do. i would research that a little more is all. i do see where you are trying to get at but the oils now a days can take a serious beating,
do you happen to have a link regarding this? just curious. usually the lower the wt oil has the more additives. it has to be able to take a more beating while being thinner at the same time and keeping within wt grade. (shearing). take 5w20 for example it has more "additives" than 5w30 even with some groupIII oil as well. group III is what americans call "synthetic" its really not its just a more refined oil. syn isnt really syn until we get to group 4-5, PAO and ester based oils. kind of got off subject there
