[GirlsRideToo]

Recently purchased a used 2014 Honda Rancher 420 FM1. While replacing the left rear brake/reverse assist cable I noticed that the former owner must have replaced the bracket on the handlebar. It is brownish in color rather than black and is canted slightly forward. Also, the bracket is broken on the bottom and this is causing the guides for the cables to not be aligned properly. I am trying to remove the bracket to replace it. It is held in place with two screws, lower and upper. The screws are impossible to remove. I have the correct bits. It appears the bracket didn't quite meet in the middle so someone just screwed it down as tight as possible. I am open to any suggestions.

 

[shadetree]

hammer impact driver . looks like a large screw driver, but you use a hammer to smack the end of it, while turning the tool, breaks bolts/nuts/screws loose very easily .

 

[GirlsRideToo]

I'll give that a try. Son has that tool and don't know why I didn't think of that! I'll let you know how it goes. Thank you!

 

[shadetree]

I'll give that a try. Son has that tool and don't know why I didn't think of that! I'll let you know how it goes. Thank you!

yw . I use mine from time to time, well worth the price I paid for it.

 

[GirlsRideToo]

Shadetree - After removing all other parts from the handlebar, I tried the impact driver and screws did not budge.
Tried a punch and hammer - screws did not budge.
Tried a Tap It Out bit set - screws dd not budge.
Verbally threatened it - screws did not budge.

Decided it was coming off one way or the other. I narrowed it down to a Dremel or Oscillating Multi-Tool. Decided on the Multi-Tool since the sparks from the Dremel might not be a good idea so close to the gas tank.

The bracket fit so poorly that I had room to start the Multi-Tool blade just inside where the two pieces met and I was off to the races. Slowly but surely I cut through the top screw and did not contact the handlebar. I stopped for the night and will tackle the bottom screw in the morning. If this was the wrong thing to do all I can says is "Oops".

My new handlebar parts arrived today and it is obvious the new OEM part is the perfect fit with cables lining up properly.

 

[wheelsquad]

I'm late to the party, but I just used a left hand drill bit set to remove 2 screws that would nut come out with the impact hammer.

 

[SamUK]

Your going the right way about it, start with conventional methods working up to the last resort methods, keep persevering you’ll get there.
Be sure to use copper grease/anti seize grease on the new bolts/screws you fit, steel in alloy corodes very fast indeed and the grease helps slow the bond between the two.

 

[fishfiles]

The way I would have done that , when all conventional ways failed , would have been to drill thru the head of the screw , if you were trying to save the part , once the head is gone then you would have a piece of the threads sticking out , it could have been grabbed with vise grips , most of the time once the head is gone the threads come right out ------ but I can read that you are going to replace the part any ways , but still drilling the head away would be the easiest way on the bottom screw you still have to do

 

[retro]

If it is a china knockoff... and I find it... expect no mercy! You did the right thing by cutting it in half. It was intentional garbage to start with.

 

[clofan]

Manual impact driver is a great tool to have, especially on older bikes. I can see this being hard to use it on though, as the bars will flex with the impact.

I usualy opt for dremel-ing a big notch in the head and using my largest flathead for max leverage. Cutting it off is fine as long as you can get the stud out afterward!

 

[GirlsRideToo]

The way I would have done that , when all conventional ways failed , would have been to drill thru the head of the screw , if you were trying to save the part , once the head is gone then you would have a piece of the threads sticking out , it could have been grabbed with vise grips , most of the time once the head is gone the threads come right out ------ but I can read that you are going to replace the part any ways , but still drilling the head away would be the easiest way on the bottom screw you still have to do

I did consider that but the head is recessed in the hole so I'm not sure I'll be able to grab the threads. The threads look only slightly smaller than the head. But, just for fun I'll give it a try. Thank you!

 

[fishfiles]

What I do is drill thru the just head with a bit the size of the threads , once you are thru the head of the screw , which is very little drilling at all , the head falls off ----you don't drill down the length of the screw , just the head ------this trick works on the master cylinder reservoir cover screws , which I see get stuck and stripped out often

 

[LedFTed]

friends

Your going the right way about it, start with conventional methods working up to the last resort methods, keep persevering you’ll get there.
Be sure to use copper grease/anti seize grease on the new bolts/screws you fit, steel in alloy corodes very fast indeed and the grease helps slow the bond between the two.

iron based engine blocks, with aluminum heads, the head gasket has a hard row to hoe do the expansion rates. this is more towards auto or truck.
iron an aluminum, arent friends, no matter what.. its best to keep a barrier, between them. sometimes, i dont think aluminum likes aluminum, or any alloy thereof.:wink

 

[GirlsRideToo]

I was finally able to remove the non-OEM bracket. The screws were recessed too deeply to get them out by any of the great suggestions. I had to resort to the Multi-Tool.
As you can see from the pic, the bracket was broken on the bottom and the piece was lodged in there. Whatever impact that bracket took must have also jammed those screws. Just my guess. Anyway, all is done.
The new Honda OEM part is now installed and fits perfectly, of course.