[Paquette]

Newbie to the sight and just love what I see. I've researched 12 pages of threads looking for a similar issue but haven't found the answer yet.

My old girl is knocking. Using a stethascope it sounds like it's coming from the cylinder head. It starts fine and runs fine but knocks like an old tractor.

I read somewhere that the cam shaft keeper bolts had backed out. Any ideas ?

Is this something I can repair without removing the engine from the frame ?

 

[Paquette]

So after reading a ton of helpful information on here I went out to the operating room and had a look. Accessing the valve adjusters was simple. I noticed that both responded well to the wiggle test. So I tightened up both just a smidgen (Less than a 1/4 turn) and man what a difference. Both in performance and rattle. It's far from perfect though.

As you can see I tackled this from an extreme shoe maker approach relying solely on the wiggle test and the guessed-amit tolerance test and it improved.

My question now is this, when I do break out the feeler guages would it be common to tighten it even more in order to get down to the .006 limit ?

Now I have to pick up some muffler tape on the way back to the trap line and it'll go like stink :rating10:

 

[shadetree]

So after reading a ton of helpful information on here I went out to the operating room and had a look. Accessing the valve adjusters was simple. I noticed that both responded well to the wiggle test. So I tightened up both just a smidgen (Less than a 1/4 turn) and man what a difference. Both in performance and rattle. It's far from perfect though.

As you can see I tackled this from an extreme shoe maker approach relying solely on the wiggle test and the guessed-amit tolerance test and it improved.

My question now is this, when I do break out the feeler guages would it be common to tighten it even more in order to get down to the .006 limit ?

Now I have to pick up some muffler tape on the way back to the trap line and it'll go like stink :rating10:

if all you want to do is set your valves to spec..then use the feeler gauges..if it's running without any noise..leave it be.

 

[Paquette]

Thanks Shadetree;

All I'm worried about at this stage is that it runs.

Should I tighten them up a bit more ? Is more than a 1/4 turn on the adjuster common ?

 

[Helmut]

Should I tighten them up a bit more ? Is more than a 1/4 turn on the adjuster common ?

You can't really tell by the adjuster, as some will need more turns than others. If you are experienced at adjusting valves, you can pretty much guess at it by how much the rocker arms move. If you're not experienced, I would recommend using the feeler gauges.

 

[Paquette]

Thanks Helmut.

I once worked at a place called seamless cylinder with a lad with the same name. We ran an ACME bar lathe. I called him hard hat....Not you by chance ?

 

[Helmut]

Thanks Helmut.

I once worked at a place called seamless cylinder with a lad with the same name. We ran an ACME bar lathe. I called him hard hat....Not you by chance ?

No, not me. Helmut is just a name I use on the forums, it's not my real name.

 

[shadetree]

Thanks Helmut.

I once worked at a place called seamless cylinder with a lad with the same name. We ran an ACME bar lathe. I called him hard hat....Not you by chance ?

not sure if he's hard hat..hard headed..yeah !..lmfaoooo..but..really..he told you right..if you have been doing engines for as long as we have..and don't ever use feeler gauges..then i would say use them.

 

[Paquette]

That's too funny. I swear to god the guy's name really was Helmut. He was a brilliant sole from Germany and man could he run a lathe.

Love the sight guys. The 89 is back in the truck and will have a closer look at it this winter during the off season.

 

[Helmut]

That's too funny. I swear to god the guy's name really was Helmut. He was a brilliant sole from Germany and man could he run a lathe.

Love the sight guys. The 89 is back in the truck and will have a closer look at it this winter during the off season.

I can run a lathe, too, but I'm not from Germany. LOL.

 

[shadetree]

That's too funny. I swear to god the guy's name really was Helmut. He was a brilliant sole from Germany and man could he run a lathe.

Love the sight guys. The 89 is back in the truck and will have a closer look at it this winter during the off season.

I can run a lathe, too, but I'm not from Germany. LOL.

you sure your not from germany helmut ???..lmfaooo.

 

[Helmut]

That's too funny. I swear to god the guy's name really was Helmut. He was a brilliant sole from Germany and man could he run a lathe.

Love the sight guys. The 89 is back in the truck and will have a closer look at it this winter during the off season.

I can run a lathe, too, but I'm not from Germany. LOL.

you sure your not from germany helmut ???..lmfaooo.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure. LOL.

 

[Paquette]

OK This thing didn't get better. It just sounded better in the confines of the shop.

Someone suggested that it may be the chain guide ?

This thing sounds like it's gonna throw a rod but yet it starts fine and has lots of power.

any suggestions ?

 

[Helmut]

If it's not the rod bearing, my guess would be the timing chain stretched. They can slap and make noises that sound like the engine is going to fly apart. I would check the condition of the timing chain by unbolting the timing chain tensioner and removing it. Since it's an automatic tensioner, when you pull it out, the arm will automatically extend all the way out and lock. Now, stick it back into the hole and push it against the chain guide and see how far you can push it in. If the tensioner goes all the way to the cylinder and touches the cylinder, the timing chain is stretched beyond the ability of the tensioner to tension it.

When done with the test and you're ready to reinstall the tensioner, don't forget you have to retract the arm with a small flat screwdriver and hold it in the retracted position until you get the tensioner bolted back to the cylinder. Then, release the screwdriver and it will automatically tension the chain. You have to take the bolt out of the end of the tensioner to access the hole to put the screwdriver, of course. It's a lot easier to loosen the bolt before you unbolt the tensioner from the cylinder. Sometimes, they can be very tight.

 

[shadetree]

sounds like it's time for a new timming chain to me .