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Just purchased a well seasoned 1995 Honda TRX300FW I need some axle parts advice

6K views 41 replies 8 participants last post by  shanosdad 
#1 ·
Hi all ! I just purchased a Green 1995 300 Fourtrax 4x4 and the rear end is in some really bad shape. I pulled it apart and the brake parts are all completely worn out as the bearing in the brake back plate was totally gone and the brake pads lost there mounting post as it was broke too. With the bearing destroyed in the brake back plate it even lightly grooved the axle surface that the bearing rides on. I haven’t opened the differential yet but it seems like it might be rebuildable. So I’m into all new bearings ,no big deal, axle, brake back cover ,brake drum and cover. My question is what is the experience in buying some of the aftermarket parts that are out there? Am I better off finding a used good axle ,brake back plate and brake drum. And what is good source of bearings you guys use? Your input is valued ! :nerd
 
#11 ·
first pic, bearing races are still on axle, they will come off. re-use the axle if the splines are still good ?, if not ?, you will need a new axle, maybe hubs, ring and pinon gear set, all new bearings and seals.
 
#3 ·
The most popular and most durable solution is an old mid-eighties TRX250/ATC250ES/TRX350(D) rearend swap. To complete that swap you will need to find an old rearend in good useable condition and buy or build your own mounting brackets, but overall its probably your best (and more cost-effective) option long term because the original rearend will be very expensive to rebuild and it will probably fail again someday. If you prefer to keep the bike stock you'll probably need to buy a mix of both new and used parts by the looks of it. Finding a good used 300 rearend is like looking for a needle in a haystack, so you might be faced with repairs to this one costing ya several hundred bucks.
 
#4 ·
Like the Chief in Outlaw Joses Wales said , Retro gives good routes to life , it is all about life and death , the road to the future has many paths , the trail you travel is up to you , so many ways to choose and then you could always bush your own > the younger crowd has come to : fix it as cheap as you can and " Send It " , and I am starting to run with the pack myself , but as I am Send It , I look to the future for resources to make the travel better ---so what I would do is fix it as cheap as possible , fill it full of grease and Lucas Hub Oil , " Send It " have a good time for a while and look for a 250/350 rear end , that is if you are planning to keep it ---
 
#7 ·
I am an OEM guy and would look for a donor at a scrapyard. You can get the parts on fleabay but it might take a few weeks to find everything you want. You might even find NOS rear end parts.

You can replace the rear end with sturdier parts from those other machines as FF said
 
#9 ·
g&h sells armor tech back brake drum, back brake drum cover, shoes, cables, and the rear backing plate as well, or did ?, its not bad in a pinch, but seeing how most parts for these are discontinued today ?, you really don't have much choice but to buy after market or used ?. try to buy oem bearings if you still can ?, but other wise, I use boss bearings for rebuild bearing and seal kits. STAY AWAY FROM '' ALL BALLS '' !!!. Caltech sells a rear axle and hubs for after market. MAKE SURE YOU MATCH THE HUBS TO AXLE WHEN BUYING AXLES !!!. honda uses two diff hub lengths on this model.
 
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#10 ·
if you end up needing a ring gear and pinon gear set ?, you can, or could ( I did ), buy a ring gear, pinion gear set for a 2000 trx300fw, same gears, will drop right into your rear diff cases :).
 
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#12 ·
Shadetree, great catch! Thank you ! The more I looked at the rear axle it sure looked like I could reuse it and I will as the splines are just fine . At first I thought there was a seal in that area but on a second examination there isn’t of course. Once I get the differential apart then the part ordering will begin. After I bought this bike the rear diff had some dirt in it under the fill cap. I cleaned it out added 80-90 spun it and drained added again . The diff clicks when backing then going forward it will be interesting if the gears are ok. I’m banking that the bearings are bad ,gears good . I like to be optimistic...so I need the brake back plate, drum ,cover, shoes, seals and bearings thus far. I’ll look at G&H and see what they have for parts.
 
#16 ·
if you caught the rear diff in time ?, then chances are, all you will need is just bearings and seals. if not ?, then odds are, you will need a ring and pinion gear set as well. if you must buy a ring and pinion gear set ?..BUY IT FROM ROCKY MOUNTAIN ATV OR PARTZILLA !!. you wont find it for your year odds are ?, BUT !!, that same ring and pinon gear set is the same for a 2000 trx300fw !.
 
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#14 ·
Well I would really like rear brakes. My son kept his 88 at my house the past 16 years and his brakes worked awesome so I know the design works. That bike has never had the brakes apart but needs to be done as the axle is slightly bent. I know it’s a few bucks but then the bike works like it should. Shadetree said G&H had brake parts so I’m going to look there. Ebay and Amazon have parts but from reading Shadetrees 88 build looks like some of the Amazon stuff is suspect.
 
#15 ·
amazon sells parts from g&h, just look around on amazon, their brand is armor tech. I had bought from amazon/g&h products, they are decent compared to oem prices..lol.
 
#17 ·
you will need a spec tool to remove the large lock nut under the pinion oil seal, if you happen to have a square piece of tubing thats 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 ?, and a large pipe wrench ?, then you can use that to unscrew the large lock nut. your biggest pain is going to remove the pinion gear needle bearing !!. unless you have a blind bearing puller tool ?, it will not be easy to remove this needle bearing !..lol. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE WIRE CLIP OUT OF THAT TINY HOLE IN THE CASE ABOVE THE BEARING !!!!!!, IF YOU DONT ?, YOU WILL BUST THE CASE TRYING TO GET THE BEARING OUT !!!.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Finally got the differential off last night and removed the case bolts . I suspect I’ll have to warm the edges of the case as it’s stubborn to pull apart. The pinion bearing feels pretty bad but the axle bearings when turned held together as far as I can tell. When I get the diff split I’ll finally know what I must order. I have watched D Ray’s videos on how to do the rebuild. He really made some informative videos. I’m leaning toward Armortech for brake pices and Boss bearings for the diff......More to come.......:nerd
 
#20 ·
no need to warm the diff cases. look on the edges, you will see slots made into the halves. use a large flat screw driver, rubber mallet or reg hammer, smack them apart, like upwards so to speak. they have yamabond around the inside seal edge, once you break this seal, the halves will come apart. you may have to use a large socket on the ring gear, and hammer it down through the case ?, all depends on how tight the inside race is on that carrier bearing ?.
 
#28 ·
I’m hoping the pinion surface is ok . If not my neighbor might be able to sleeve it so I could reuse the gear set. When I get that apart I’ll know more. At this point the pinion bearing is definitely well worn. The gears look great so I’m hoping.
 
#33 ·
You need to check that pinion spur to bearing fit. If it's loose the rebuild kit should come with a steel sleeve that will fix it.

You'll have to find someone with a lathe to turn down your pinion gear spur to the proper size to slide the steel sleeve on, then your pinion will be tight in the needle bearing again.
 
#34 ·
My neighbor is the best!! We got all of the bearings out today and the drum off the axle. We drilled a hole behind the needle bearing,heated the bearing and used a Dremel to weaken. That did the trick. He has a lathe and is an experienced Street rod builder so when parts come in he will help machine the pinion to the needle needing. more to come.
 
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