Honda ATV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all ! I just purchased a Green 1995 300 Fourtrax 4x4 and the rear end is in some really bad shape. I pulled it apart and the brake parts are all completely worn out as the bearing in the brake back plate was totally gone and the brake pads lost there mounting post as it was broke too. With the bearing destroyed in the brake back plate it even lightly grooved the axle surface that the bearing rides on. I haven’t opened the differential yet but it seems like it might be rebuildable. So I’m into all new bearings ,no big deal, axle, brake back cover ,brake drum and cover. My question is what is the experience in buying some of the aftermarket parts that are out there? Am I better off finding a used good axle ,brake back plate and brake drum. And what is good source of bearings you guys use? Your input is valued ! :nerd
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,956 Posts
The most popular and most durable solution is an old mid-eighties TRX250/ATC250ES/TRX350(D) rearend swap. To complete that swap you will need to find an old rearend in good useable condition and buy or build your own mounting brackets, but overall its probably your best (and more cost-effective) option long term because the original rearend will be very expensive to rebuild and it will probably fail again someday. If you prefer to keep the bike stock you'll probably need to buy a mix of both new and used parts by the looks of it. Finding a good used 300 rearend is like looking for a needle in a haystack, so you might be faced with repairs to this one costing ya several hundred bucks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,379 Posts
Like the Chief in Outlaw Joses Wales said , Retro gives good routes to life , it is all about life and death , the road to the future has many paths , the trail you travel is up to you , so many ways to choose and then you could always bush your own > the younger crowd has come to : fix it as cheap as you can and " Send It " , and I am starting to run with the pack myself , but as I am Send It , I look to the future for resources to make the travel better ---so what I would do is fix it as cheap as possible , fill it full of grease and Lucas Hub Oil , " Send It " have a good time for a while and look for a 250/350 rear end , that is if you are planning to keep it ---
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I thank all of you for your responses. Has anyone had a good experience with the cheaper aftermarket axles ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,519 Posts
I am an OEM guy and would look for a donor at a scrapyard. You can get the parts on fleabay but it might take a few weeks to find everything you want. You might even find NOS rear end parts.

You can replace the rear end with sturdier parts from those other machines as FF said
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Another question is the rear brake back, drum and tin cover what about using after market on these items ?I'm a PITA I know but experience by others always helps.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
36,643 Posts
g&h sells armor tech back brake drum, back brake drum cover, shoes, cables, and the rear backing plate as well, or did ?, its not bad in a pinch, but seeing how most parts for these are discontinued today ?, you really don't have much choice but to buy after market or used ?. try to buy oem bearings if you still can ?, but other wise, I use boss bearings for rebuild bearing and seal kits. STAY AWAY FROM '' ALL BALLS '' !!!. Caltech sells a rear axle and hubs for after market. MAKE SURE YOU MATCH THE HUBS TO AXLE WHEN BUYING AXLES !!!. honda uses two diff hub lengths on this model.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
36,643 Posts
if you end up needing a ring gear and pinon gear set ?, you can, or could ( I did ), buy a ring gear, pinion gear set for a 2000 trx300fw, same gears, will drop right into your rear diff cases :).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
36,643 Posts
Photos of failed axle and the green monster
first pic, bearing races are still on axle, they will come off. re-use the axle if the splines are still good ?, if not ?, you will need a new axle, maybe hubs, ring and pinon gear set, all new bearings and seals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Shadetree, great catch! Thank you ! The more I looked at the rear axle it sure looked like I could reuse it and I will as the splines are just fine . At first I thought there was a seal in that area but on a second examination there isn’t of course. Once I get the differential apart then the part ordering will begin. After I bought this bike the rear diff had some dirt in it under the fill cap. I cleaned it out added 80-90 spun it and drained added again . The diff clicks when backing then going forward it will be interesting if the gears are ok. I’m banking that the bearings are bad ,gears good . I like to be optimistic...so I need the brake back plate, drum ,cover, shoes, seals and bearings thus far. I’ll look at G&H and see what they have for parts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,489 Posts
Unless you just really want back brakes, I'd put money into a disc brake conversion for the front, and delete the back brake completely. You can cut the backing plate down or just leave the pads out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well I would really like rear brakes. My son kept his 88 at my house the past 16 years and his brakes worked awesome so I know the design works. That bike has never had the brakes apart but needs to be done as the axle is slightly bent. I know it’s a few bucks but then the bike works like it should. Shadetree said G&H had brake parts so I’m going to look there. Ebay and Amazon have parts but from reading Shadetrees 88 build looks like some of the Amazon stuff is suspect.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
36,643 Posts
Well I would really like rear brakes. My son kept his 88 at my house the past 16 years and his brakes worked awesome so I know the design works. That bike has never had the brakes apart but needs to be done as the axle is slightly bent. I know it’s a few bucks but then the bike works like it should. Shadetree said G&H had brake parts so I’m going to look there. Ebay and Amazon have parts but from reading Shadetrees 88 build looks like some of the Amazon stuff is suspect.
amazon sells parts from g&h, just look around on amazon, their brand is armor tech. I had bought from amazon/g&h products, they are decent compared to oem prices..lol.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
36,643 Posts
Shadetree, great catch! Thank you ! The more I looked at the rear axle it sure looked like I could reuse it and I will as the splines are just fine . At first I thought there was a seal in that area but on a second examination there isn’t of course. Once I get the differential apart then the part ordering will begin. After I bought this bike the rear diff had some dirt in it under the fill cap. I cleaned it out added 80-90 spun it and drained added again . The diff clicks when backing then going forward it will be interesting if the gears are ok. I’m banking that the bearings are bad ,gears good . I like to be optimistic...so I need the brake back plate, drum ,cover, shoes, seals and bearings thus far. I’ll look at G&H and see what they have for parts.
if you caught the rear diff in time ?, then chances are, all you will need is just bearings and seals. if not ?, then odds are, you will need a ring and pinion gear set as well. if you must buy a ring and pinion gear set ?..BUY IT FROM ROCKY MOUNTAIN ATV OR PARTZILLA !!. you wont find it for your year odds are ?, BUT !!, that same ring and pinon gear set is the same for a 2000 trx300fw !.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
36,643 Posts
you will need a spec tool to remove the large lock nut under the pinion oil seal, if you happen to have a square piece of tubing thats 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 ?, and a large pipe wrench ?, then you can use that to unscrew the large lock nut. your biggest pain is going to remove the pinion gear needle bearing !!. unless you have a blind bearing puller tool ?, it will not be easy to remove this needle bearing !..lol. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE WIRE CLIP OUT OF THAT TINY HOLE IN THE CASE ABOVE THE BEARING !!!!!!, IF YOU DONT ?, YOU WILL BUST THE CASE TRYING TO GET THE BEARING OUT !!!.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Finally got the differential off last night and removed the case bolts . I suspect I’ll have to warm the edges of the case as it’s stubborn to pull apart. The pinion bearing feels pretty bad but the axle bearings when turned held together as far as I can tell. When I get the diff split I’ll finally know what I must order. I have watched D Ray’s videos on how to do the rebuild. He really made some informative videos. I’m leaning toward Armortech for brake pices and Boss bearings for the diff......More to come.......:nerd
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
36,643 Posts
Finally got the differential off last night and removed the case bolts . I suspect I’ll have to warm the edges of the case as it’s stubborn to pull apart. The pinion bearing feels pretty bad but the axle bearings when turned held together as far as I can tell. When I get the diff split I’ll finally know what I must order. I have watched D Ray’s videos on how to do the rebuild. He really made some informative videos. I’m leaning toward Armortech for brake pices and Boss bearings for the diff......More to come.......:nerd
no need to warm the diff cases. look on the edges, you will see slots made into the halves. use a large flat screw driver, rubber mallet or reg hammer, smack them apart, like upwards so to speak. they have yamabond around the inside seal edge, once you break this seal, the halves will come apart. you may have to use a large socket on the ring gear, and hammer it down through the case ?, all depends on how tight the inside race is on that carrier bearing ?.
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Top