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Try determining how much slack you have in the cam chain.
Refer to the service manual for cam chain adjuster. page 7-14
Remove the adjuster following the three or four steps.
It automatically extends when you pull it out

For this test you insert the extended adjuster back into the hole—the further it goes in the more slack you have. If you can insert it most of the way, you’ll need a new cam chain. there’s a numeric value just don’t know what it is right now

before you reinstall Says to use a stiff piece of wire to fully retract the shaft. I used a very small screwdriver. Install the fully retracted adjuster and get it bolted down. Just as described

heres a pic of mine this chain seems new can see the entire base
151073
 

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1986 Honda Fourtrax 350
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Discussion Starter #22
Sad days.....

The tensioner is maxed out - double-checked by pressing in with a screwdriver and its right at the max extension of the tensioner.

So - now I'm looking at a new cam chain. Just watched a vid on replacing that... yuk... lots of disassembly involved. I can do it, but I sure am not looking forward to it!

Any suggestions on a cheap way to lift the whole unit up a bit so I can work on it without kneeling the whole time?
 

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Too bad. Well it’s good that ya know.
Yes i bought a Harley-Davidson service lift for $75. Works real well
151075
 

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1986 Honda Fourtrax 350
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Discussion Starter #24
Any specific source to avoid for the chain? Partszilla doesn't stock them... I see a D.I.D. Brand chain on Discount ATV supply... not seeing anything OEM..
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Found it.... sorry - was being lazy... :). Also found an ATV/Cycle lift at harbor freight I'll be picking up tomorrow!
 

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No you’re doing well. DID is preferred but I don’t know exactly part number

I needed one changed on my work 87 TRX350A —took it to the shop and the did it for $400–but i disassembled it all the way down to include cracking the bolts loose. I know my shop real well tho.

youll need a right case cover gasket and want to clean the oil screen in there. Search for a cam chain thread. There is a good thread on here And atvhonda board.

Spray all those nuts and bolts with Deep Creep and use best quality 6-pt sockets and 3/8 and 1/4 breaker bar
 

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#8 Left case cover gasket Is good you may need but
you’ll definitely need the right case cover gasket.
 

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1986 Honda Fourtrax 350
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Discussion Starter #30
Ok... I get it now... sweet jebus - three gaskets..

Right side is the side I need access through... Believe it or not - I am a Mechanical Engineer - but clearly not showing it today!
 

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No just the one right side gasket 11394-hc4-840 and maybe the left which I would also get.
What third gasket are you getting?
There’s some members at atvhonda.com that have done this. I haven’t
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Welp... This keeps getting better and better.

Pulled the valve cover to get a look at the timing chain and..... one stripped bolt - not by me... it was just sitting there spinning and when I pulled it - all threads are mushroomed..

Then, the even better part. At some point in this ATV's life - they didn't replace the timing chain in time - and it jumped, and punched a hole in the cover... JB weld and lots of carnage inside.

So - I'll be buying a new head now. Yay!
 

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1986 Honda Fourtrax 350
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Discussion Starter #34
In between running analysis jobs I pulled the head and exhaust off.... man thats no joke!

Question - The sleeves around the head bolts pulled up a bit - just tap them back down?

I have a new head assembly in good condition on the way as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
On Sunday I rebuilt the carb, then I knocked the majority of the rust off the exhaust header and pipes, cleaned with brake cleaner and repainted several coats with black 1200 degree BBQ Grill spray.

Tonight I pulled the right side crank case cover - everything looks pretty good in there. Just waiting on the new seal and new head to get everything snipped back together.

I also ordered a new choke cable as the existing one is binding quite a bit even after several applications of PB blaster..
 

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In between running analysis jobs I pulled the head and exhaust off.... man thats no joke!

Question - The sleeves around the head bolts pulled up a bit - just tap them back down?

I have a new head assembly in good condition on the way as well.
What does the manual say — anything? I wouldn’t tap them directly with a hammer use a wooden dowel
that head looks good no galling on the bearing surfaces
 

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On Sunday I rebuilt the carb, then I knocked the majority of the rust off the exhaust header and pipes, cleaned with brake cleaner and repainted several coats with black 1200 degree BBQ Grill spray.

Tonight I pulled the right side crank case cover - everything looks pretty good in there. Just waiting on the new seal and new head to get everything snipped back together.

I also ordered a new choke cable as the existing one is binding quite a bit even after several applications of PB blaster..
I used 2000F primer and paint; that header gets HOT LOLs
 

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1986 Honda Fourtrax 350
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Discussion Starter #38
A couple of notes on the RHS crankcase after watching many videos and struggling for a couple of days - typical issues I have found (If you haven't downloaded the manual yet - do it... refer to pages 9-3, 9-15, 9-16):

The Reverse Stopper Lever removal (9-3):
- This is a conical semi-press-fit onto the shaft and a complete BUGGER to get off. I had to heat it several times, beat on it with a hammer and screwdriver with no luck - then I use a couple of applications of PB-Blaster, beat on it some more, then more PB-Blaster... and I was just about to go to Autozone to rent a pulley puller and gave it one more whack and it popped off.

Stopper Lever Re-Assembly(9-16):
- Place the spring back on and it is supposed to sit on top of the oil screen channel - use a flat blade screwdriver to lift it over the channel and tap the shaft into the case with a hammer lightly while you guide the spring over the channel (cursing a lot helps too).

Kick-Start Follower Cam(9-15):
- Hold this with spring tension while you put the case back on - you will understand once you see how the spring sits - just engage the spring and hold the lever so that the cam will clear the kickstart shaft assembly while you assemble the case.


Make sure Practice dry-fitting the case several times doing the above steps and then removing them again a few times so that you can do everything fluidly and easily once you have the gasket installed on the engine. If you fumble with it during assembly, you can knock the gasket off or pinch it and cause it to leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Thanks!

I decided to use the current head and the new valve cover/rockers. Not sure on the cam yet as I haven't seen the new one yet... but most likely I'll use the cam that is coming.

Tonight I removed the carbon from the head and lapped the valves / changed the valve guide seals.
 
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