ummm..yeah you will get TDC alright, but..will it be on compression stroke ?, or exhaust stroke ?. must be on compression stroke..big difference !.View attachment 55306
Here is the way to find TDC on TRX300fx
Use a flashlight to look inside the left hole to see a "T on its side" lined up with the index arrow inside the case while you rotate the starter reduction shaft counter clockwise (hole on the left with the driver handle in it) Access is accomplished by removing the plug covers with a large screwdriver. The starter reduction shaft needs a 25 Torx bit.
yep..agreed ^^^.Another simple way is to remove the spark plug put your finger over the plug hole and bump the starter or turn the flywheel by socket until you feel air pushing on your finger, then using a long dowel rod or screw driver stick it in the plug hole and slowly turn the crank until the piston is at the top of the cylinder and the "-"by the T is aligned with the notch in the cover.
ummm..yeah you will get TDC alright, but..will it be on compression stroke ?, or exhaust stroke ?. must be on compression stroke..big difference !.View attachment 55306
Here is the way to find TDC on TRX300fx
Use a flashlight to look inside the left hole to see a "T on its side" lined up with the index arrow inside the case while you rotate the starter reduction shaft counter clockwise (hole on the left with the driver handle in it) Access is accomplished by removing the plug covers with a large screwdriver. The starter reduction shaft needs a 25 Torx bit.
your welcome, I hope I made it easier , and cheaper for ya ?..lol.Helpful is good. I have mechanic fear especially on Honda valves. Our dealer here gets pretty good dough for valve adjustment and the service interval is pretty tight. As I have a Silverwing too, I would save a bundle if I had valve confidence. Thanks for the post, shadetree.
I have not been in this thread until today ?, but..if you removed the center cap on the left hand side case, you could use the 17mm crank bolt to turn the motor backwards.ummm..yeah you will get TDC alright, but..will it be on compression stroke ?, or exhaust stroke ?. must be on compression stroke..big difference !.View attachment 55306
Here is the way to find TDC on TRX300fx
Use a flashlight to look inside the left hole to see a "T on its side" lined up with the index arrow inside the case while you rotate the starter reduction shaft counter clockwise (hole on the left with the driver handle in it) Access is accomplished by removing the plug covers with a large screwdriver. The starter reduction shaft needs a 25 Torx bit.
I posted this in an effort to show people with a similar engine design a different method for manipulating their engine into the proper position, and I did not see this method mentioned anywhere in this forum and I thought it would be educational. It is the method used in the Service manual. I forgot to add to be sure to be on compression stroke and will edit. .
Your original post talks in excellent detail about the process, but on my 94 TRX300fx, the only way I was able to advance the engine was by hitting the starter or by the kick starter. I did the latter by removing the kick starter and laying a piece of baling wire in the splines of the extended shaft and then used a 18mm 12 point socket wrench on the splined shaft. (17mm too small, 18mm too big) I was able to find top dead center using this method coupled with the dowel rod in the spark plug hole technique.
Afterwards, I discovered a Service Manual on YouTube and it showed the technique I described, which I found way easier and to be more accurate.
I don't know how to "Turn the crank backwards" on this Quad, as you mentioned in the original post. I don't think turning the starter reduction shaft clockwise will do anything.
maintenance is good, but not why your losing oil, your losing oil from worn oil rings on piston ?, or a leak somewhere from the engine.Helpful info here..
Will be trying this tomorrow thanks to the manual,google and shadetree cross my fingers...My last valve job was around 3 years ago done by Honda .
it's a 2013 C.T.E. FPA so i figure it's due.....
Q : Not doing this regular maintenance would it be that I'm burning oil....1263Km, 785 Miles had to add almost a quart of oil....
Oh ya ODO just turned 10,684Km 6639 Miles
Maybe time for a 680cc...haha
So the compression stroke is the piston on top or is it sitting at bottom,that's were i get mixed up...and then leave it when it get to compression stoke with T Mark and i adjust both according to the manual gap specs..Always adjust all of the valves on single-cylinder motors with the motor at TDC on the compression stroke. Verify your work after the adjustments by rotating the motor in the normal direction of rotation for two complete revolutions watching the valves open and close and stop at TDC again (on compression stroke) to double-check your adjustments. Do not ever rotate the motor backwards... if you go past your mark continue on two more revolutions and try again to stop on the TDC mark.
ummm, two cycle engines, or i think you mean 2 strokes ?, they don't have valves to adjustat the top or a hair past,, a very small hair. timing mark should help, unless you got a stretched chain.. TDC means top dead center. thats where you want to be. 4 cycle engine are a bit different than two cycles, they both are adjusted at TDC, with a 4 you have to make sure that your in the firing cycle, instead of exhaust cycle.
Leds' right, the old Detroit Diesel 71 series motors were two-cycle diesels having a gear driven Roots type (positive displacement) blower mounted on the side of the engine blocks that pumped air into the cylinder(s) through intake ports, but the exhaust was handled by either two or four valves per cylinder. The motors fired every time the piston(s) come up, thus they were a true two-stroke motor design having multiple valves per cylinder. Those exhaust valves were controlled by solid lifters too, so valve adjustments had to be performed on those motors at regular intervals... with each piston at TDC.ummm, two cycle engines, or i think you mean 2 strokes ?, they don't have valves to adjustat the top or a hair past,, a very small hair. timing mark should help, unless you got a stretched chain.. TDC means top dead center. thats where you want to be. 4 cycle engine are a bit different than two cycles, they both are adjusted at TDC, with a 4 you have to make sure that your in the firing cycle, instead of exhaust cycle.. only 4 stroke engines have valves, least as far as i know anyway ?
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well, lets keep our mindset on atv engines here, and not diesel engines ?, because i know very little about those !..lol ( cept when they run out of fuel ?..they are a royal pain to get started again ). this is a atv forums, not your local truck garage , lol.Leds' right, the old Detroit Diesel 71 series motors were two-cycle diesels having a gear driven Roots type (positive displacement) blower mounted on the side of the engine blocks that pumped air into the cylinder(s) through intake ports, but the exhaust was handled by either two or four valves per cylinder. The motors fired every time the piston(s) come up, thus they were a true two-stroke motor design having multiple valves per cylinder. Those exhaust valves were controlled by solid lifters too, so valve adjustments had to be performed on those motors at regular intervals... with each piston at TDC.ummm, two cycle engines, or i think you mean 2 strokes ?, they don't have valves to adjustat the top or a hair past,, a very small hair. timing mark should help, unless you got a stretched chain.. TDC means top dead center. thats where you want to be. 4 cycle engine are a bit different than two cycles, they both are adjusted at TDC, with a 4 you have to make sure that your in the firing cycle, instead of exhaust cycle.. only 4 stroke engines have valves, least as far as i know anyway ?
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Diesel_Series_71
When I was a teenager I worked on a 6-71 in a big old flat-nosed GMC semi truck. It had an air powered starter motor on it... I'll never forget the screaming noises that beast made cranking over to start it and then revving under load. Cool tech back then... those roots blowers were adapted for racing in the '50s, every Top Fuelie dragster on earth back then had a 6-71 GMC blower on them, and they still use the same blower design today.![]()