Thanks Shadetree. Another thing to add would be if you start out in 2nd gear or higher regularly... you will be ruining your clutch! Then you have to pull the cover and replace it. So just start out in 1st gear and save the headache!!!
How to adjust the clutch on utility atv's
Ok gang, I see a lot of members, new and old ?..having trouble with their atv's not wanting to move ?, jumping when put into gear ?. so here is a simple way to adjust your clutch for any atv model that has a auto clutch. here is how I do them, I will loosen the 14mm locking nut on the front cover, then I turn the center screw/bolt counter clockwise until I starts to feel tight ?. then I go back roughly 1/4 in clockwise, then I tighten down the lock nut while holding the center screw/bolt in place. now..to check to see if you adjusted it correctly ?, get on, start the atv up, with your left foot ( if your on a manual shift ? ), lift the foot shift lever up...AND HOLD IT THERE !, while doing this..rev the throttle..the atv should not move at all ?. let off on the throttle back down to idle. then let the foot shift lever back down. again..the atv should not move '' creep '' at all ?..until you give it throttle !. if it is idling to high ?..when you let the foot shift down..yes..it will move, '' creep ''. if for some reason it moves at all when you lift the foot shift lever up and holding it there..and it wants to move ?..then turn it off, go back and re-do the adjusting..because it is not right !. your aiming for a smooth shift..and to get a smooth shift ?..you have to have the clutch adjusted right !. ok..now your asking me..''ok shade..i did the adjusting like you said''..but it will not move '' ???..ok..then do this..if you look on the front cover for the words <--- decrease, increase ----> ( these words maybe covered in mud ?..lol ) but they are there !!!. loosen the lock nut again, and turn the center nut some more clockwise, tighten down the lock nut while holding the center screw/bolt. then start it up, shift it into gear..and see if it '' grabs '' better ?..if it does not ?..then more than likely..your change clutch friction disk are worn too much ?..and no matter how many times you adjust the clutch ?..it won't help !. you will need new friction disk. now..you can remove the front cover, ( drain the oil, or flip it on its rear end )...and pull the centrifugal clutch, then the change clutch, and get the friction disk out, and mic them, and see if they are still within spec's ?, if they are out of service limit ?, then yes..you will need new friction disk. please keep in mind...YOU CAN NOT USE REG AUTO OIL IN ATVS !..THEY HAVE TO HAVE OIL MADE FOR ENGINES WITH A WET CLUTCH !!!..if you use reg auto oil ?..then the clutches will slip in due time !..and all your going to do is burn your clutches up !. I hope this helps at least one person on here ?..if not ?..well.i tried !..lol.
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im new to this forum thanks in advance & thanks for what yall do. i have a 02 450es i recently overhauled engine i took front cover to clean out sludge, when i cranked up shift in gear bike wants to take off slow i tried adjusting the clutch decrease all the way to increase still the same the hole time, i took the front cover back off checked everthing looks to be in place as my repair manual has it, the bike didnt do this before i overhauled it could it be clutches dry and need to run it?
If the atv "jumps" slightly but does not move forward when shifting in to first does this mean it's adjusted incorrectly? Or when you say creep do you mean jump
hello, almost every atv, even Honda's will '' jump '' a tad when put into gear. this is normal. the main thing your shooting for when adjusting the clutch is getting it to move period when adjusting the clutch. as long as your holding the foot shift lever up with your foot after you shift into 1st ?, and the atv does not move while your doing this ?.then you have it adjusted right. the atv should not move at all until you let the foot shift lever down.If the atv "jumps" slightly but does not move forward when shifting in to first does this mean it's adjusted incorrectly? Or when you say creep do you mean jump
When you say it should not move at all when holding the lever up, you mean it should not jump at all until you have lowered the shifting lever? Sorry Manual says to adjust until clutch performs normally, but I am new to this so I am not sure what normal is.
Alright. After a couple tries I believe I got it. Thanks Shadetree
This may be a silly question, but; I had adjusted 2000 trx450es clutch before it went to a shop. i have been running 10w-40 pens-oil, gave them 10w-30 to replace, and was informed about wet clutch oil. atv never clutch slipped till i got it back. i may have put [5 miles] on it. i checked dipstick before i changed to wet clutch oil, it was low, even screwed in. with new oil in, i thought to check clutch adjustment, 4 to 6 turns off.[ not to mention lost bolts, carb was not finished, i was told atv's normally run bad in cold weather, call back when weather warms up, an so on] MY question is with clutch adjusted as you said, 14mm locking nut is tight, how far can adjusting screw turn clockwise, or be that much off? //Ed
this probably dont need to be here, on sticky. it belongs in a thread with,[How much can you trust the shop where work is done]. i'll figure out how to start a new thread. //EdThis may be a silly question, but; I had adjusted 2000 trx450es clutch before it went to a shop. i have been running 10w-40 pens-oil, gave them 10w-30 to replace, and was informed about wet clutch oil. atv never clutch slipped till i got it back. i may have put [5 miles] on it. i checked dipstick before i changed to wet clutch oil, it was low, even screwed in. with new oil in, i thought to check clutch adjustment, 4 to 6 turns off.[ not to mention lost bolts, carb was not finished, i was told atv's normally run bad in cold weather, call back when weather warms up, an so on] MY question is with clutch adjusted as you said, 14mm locking nut is tight, how far can adjusting screw turn clockwise, or be that much off? //Ed
1986 honda fourtrax 250
I got this atv for a good deal, it has been sitting for 2 years. It was driving and running but dirty carb from what I understand and that is why it was parked. I have it running smoothly but the back wheels will not role. I got the back brakes off and they were seized up. I try to shift into gear but it will not shift into any gear? Any ideas on what I need to do?
I got this atv for a good deal, it has been sitting for 2 years. It was driving and running but dirty carb from what I understand and that is why it was parked. I have it running smoothly but the back wheels will not role. I got the back brakes off and they were seized up. I try to shift into gear but it will not shift into any gear? Any ideas on what I need to do?
How do I adjust a clutch on a Honda rancher 420 ES? When i shift from second to third I have to hit the button like 2-3 times to get it to shift. But it almost sounds like its not even trying, its like I amjust hitting the button.
Do you have a factory service manual?How do I adjust a clutch on a Honda rancher 420 ES? When i shift from second to third I have to hit the button like 2-3 times to get it to shift. But it almost sounds like its not even trying, its like I amjust hitting the button.
Do you have a factory service manual?How do I adjust a clutch on a Honda rancher 420 ES? When i shift from second to third I have to hit the button like 2-3 times to get it to shift. But it almost sounds like its not even trying, its like I amjust hitting the button.
Yes I do. I should have looked it there.
So in your description on how to properly adjust the clutch, you give steps to check after adjusting. You use the manual shift to show about creeping, is there a comparable action for the ES? Push the up button ^ to select 1st gear but hold it like you said to hold the manual shifter? Or something else to check the results, I know you are not an ES guy but still have lots of knowledge.
On ES bikes you use the manual shift wrench to hold the completed shift while you test using the throttle for any creeping/clutch drag. Put the emergency shift wrench (or a 12mm wrench) on the manual shift shaft, apply some upward pressure to the wrench (so you'll be ready to catch and hold the shift at the top) depress the shift button and hold the wrench so it cannot return. Practice makes perfection.
Think I've got it, will do some tweaking, I have it much better after today, but want to make sure it is where it needs to be. Is this adjustment very precise needing to find the sweet spot or just gotta get it close? I'm thinking pretty particular...On ES bikes you use the manual shift wrench to hold the completed shift while you test using the throttle for any creeping/clutch drag. Put the emergency shift wrench (or a 12mm wrench) on the manual shift shaft, apply some upward pressure to the wrench (so you'll be ready to catch and hold the shift at the top) depress the shift button and hold the wrench so it cannot return. Practice makes perfection.
I will post back on my bad oil change thread with any other info..
not really sure how to go about it with a es model ??, i've only done manual shifts this way. and your right..i am not an es atv lover at all !!..lol.So in your description on how to properly adjust the clutch, you give steps to check after adjusting. You use the manual shift to show about creeping, is there a comparable action for the ES? Push the up button ^ to select 1st gear but hold it like you said to hold the manual shifter? Or something else to check the results, I know you are not an ES guy but still have lots of knowledge.
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