[Pip Whittaker]

Hi,

I need some help/guidance on removing the crankcases from the engine on my 92 trx 350d. Is there anything I need to be careful or be mindful of when removing them? Or is it just as simple as unbolting them and sliding them off? Also is it possible to do this with the engine still in the bike?

Thanks

 

[Goober]

You mean the side cases Pip?

The left sidecase seemed easy for me to remove when i changed the stator. The manual gives a great step by step except for some things:
When you pull the starter gears don’t drop the washer down into the case. Notice the gear types as you pull them out they are all different

It shows you to use a big screwdriver and a rag to back out the front drive shaft. This is to protect the cover from scratches

It doesn’t tell you to drain the engine oil before you pull off the gear drive unit.

And it doesn’t tell you to push in on the gear selector shaft when you get to remove the cover. If the shaft backs out when you pull the cover loose, then your gear selector may not go back in or your shift pattern may be off. Then you have to take off the right side.

There’s no torque value listed for the cover bolts—i only went snug and then 15-30 inch pounds. Inch pounds that’s like not even 2 foot pounds

 

[SamUK]

To part the crankcase you need the engine out and on a work bench, side cases can be removed with the engine in situe.

See @Goober link at the bottom of his reply for service manuals

 

[shadetree]

WORD OF CAUTION !!. IF you are splitting the main cases ?..make sure you have the engine facing the correct way before you split them ?..otherwise, your going to have a mess with your tranny gears falling out..lol. yes, the engine must be out of the frame in order to split the cases !.

 

[Pip Whittaker]

@Goober yes sorry, I meant the side cases. I need to get the left side case off.
Thanks guys

 

[Goober]

@Goober yes sorry, I meant the side cases. I need to get the left side case off.
Thanks guys

Ok great.
Also there are two “dowels,” or metal spring pins, used to line up both the starter gear and the side case cover. Don’t break them or you might break the cover.

Work the covers off gradually until you can get a wide flat screwdriver tip between the mating surfaces and pry them loose. You will probably need to order a gasket.

My starter cover gasket had a chunk out of it so now crankcase pressure vents out a little at the top of the cover thankfully no oil!

 

[Goober]

Here’s pics of the removed cover and results of my stator testing. Yours will look a lil different because you have a D model–yours has no exciter coil wire like the A model .

Be very careful when removing the old gasket you don’t want to scratch that case edge too deeply.

 

[Pip Whittaker]

Here’s pics of the removed cover and results of my stator testing. Yours will look a lil different because you have a D model–yours has no exciter coil wire like the A model .

Be very careful when removing the old gasket you don’t want to scratch that case edge too deeply.

Thanks for those tips @Goober, much appreciated! I haven't got round to it yet, but I'm sure it'll go smoothly. Fingers crossed lol

I have another question though (kind of engine related lol). I need a battery for the bike. I'm wondering what specifications I need to get? Just any 12v battery?
Thanks

 

[Jeepwm69]

Here’s pics of the removed cover and results of my stator testing. Yours will look a lil different because you have a D model–yours has no exciter coil wire like the A model .

Be very careful when removing the old gasket you don’t want to scratch that case edge too deeply.

Thanks for those tips @Goober, much appreciated! I haven't got round to it yet, but I'm sure it'll go smoothly. Fingers crossed lol

I have another question though (kind of engine related lol). I need a battery for the bike. I'm wondering what specifications I need to get? Just any 12v battery?
Thanks

Battery from the factory was a Yuasa YTH14-128

 

[LedFTed]

i got a YTX14, on the 450es, i like it.. ya gotta shop around. mind was from "impact battery".,, i'm sure you might get a better deal..

 

[Pip Whittaker]

Fuel tank

Can anyone enlighten me on why there's two pick up lines in the fuel tank? Also why can you shut off either one individually with the petcock valve?

Thanks guys.

[/IMG]

 

[shadetree]

because one spot is for fuel '' on '', other is for fuel '' reserve '', and the middle is for '' off ''.

 

[SamUK]

Here’s pics of the removed cover and results of my stator testing. Yours will look a lil different because you have a D model—yours has no exciter coil wire like the A model .

Be very careful when removing the old gasket you don’t want to scratch that case edge too deeply.

Thanks for those tips @Goober, much appreciated! I haven't got round to it yet, but I'm sure it'll go smoothly. Fingers crossed lol

I have another question though (kind of engine related lol). I need a battery for the bike. I'm wondering what specifications I need to get? Just any 12v battery?
Thanks

Battery from the factory was a Yuasa YTH14-128

Can still get those batteries here in the UK Pip, may be an updated part number but certainly still available ;-)

 

[Pip Whittaker]

because one spot is for fuel '' on '', other is for fuel '' reserve '', and the middle is for '' off ''.

@shadetree Ah okay. Is the reserve in the tank then? And how does it fill up/work etc?

 

[Pip Whittaker]

Here’s pics of the removed cover and results of my stator testing. Yours will look a lil different because you have a D model—yours has no exciter coil wire like the A model .

Be very careful when removing the old gasket you don’t want to scratch that case edge too deeply.

Thanks for those tips @Goober, much appreciated! I haven't got round to it yet, but I'm sure it'll go smoothly. Fingers crossed lol

I have another question though (kind of engine related lol). I need a battery for the bike. I'm wondering what specifications I need to get? Just any 12v battery?
Thanks

Battery from the factory was a Yuasa YTH14-128

Can still get those batteries here in the UK Pip, may be an updated part number but certainly still available ;-)

@SamUK Okay sweet. Do you know if just a general battery will work? For example one from halfords or something lol?

 

[Duck0fDeath]

because one spot is for fuel '' on '', other is for fuel '' reserve '', and the middle is for '' off ''.

@shadetree Ah okay. Is the reserve in the tank then? And how does it fill up/work etc?

The reserve tube is longer than the normal (on) pickup tube. As the level gets low, the "ON" position tube no longer reaches the fuel. Switching to "reserve" uses the tube that goes to the bottom of the tank.

 

[Goober]

Check out this thread Pip
https://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/honda-fourtrax/125620-86-trx350-fuel-tank-borescope.html

The tank has two internal suction lines each terminated with a round pickup screen. You can use a 12-14 inch piece of old brake or throttle cable to push into the tubes to clear them of scale or debris. I have used a drill to cut through a hardened deposit before BUT be careful you don’t want to pierce those screens or worse get your “boring line” hung up in the screen.

Careful also using vinegar in the tank with your fuel indicator it might eat the seals or the tank float on it—I’m not sure

 

[SamUK]

Battery from the factory was a Yuasa YTH14-128

Can still get those batteries here in the UK Pip, may be an updated part number but certainly still available ;-)

@SamUK Okay sweet. Do you know if just a general battery will work? For example one from halfords or something lol?

Yes lol.. Halfords have a decent selection of motorcycle batteries and somewhere in the aisle you'll find a chart on the shelf, you can cross reference the battery part number to and Halfords own brand or whatever they have available. Pretty sure I got a Yuasa from Halfords not so long back for my 300 fourtrax

 

[Pip Whittaker]

@SamUK @Goober.. Thanks guys. Appreciate it

 

[Pip Whittaker]

Anyone able to tell me what year this oil temp sensor is from? It's from a parts engine I've got laying around.
Thanks