[gitterson]

OK, so I've done a bunch of reading and watching of videos and I see some conflicting information regarding the Honda Rancher reverse issue.


Here's what I've seen multiple times on this forum: "The 'Reverse Switch' seen (in the below video) doesn't actually work to put the ATV into Reverse, it only transmits the information to the display that you're in reverse"

My question is simple: If that's true, why does it FIX the "Can't Shift to Reverse" in the video?



Thanks.

-g

 

[wheelsquad]

OK, so I've done a bunch of reading and watching of videos and I see some conflicting information regarding the Honda Rancher reverse issue.


Here's what I've seen multiple times on this forum: "The 'Reverse Switch' seen (in the below video) doesn't actually work to put the ATV into Reverse, it only transmits the information to the display that you're in reverse"

https://youtu.be/mQipQCefsfI



My question is simple: If that's true, why does it FIX the "Can't Shift to Reverse" in the video?



Thanks.

-g

That fixes it because it's a sensor, and if the ECM isn't getting the right information from the sensors, it won't allow it to shift into reverse.

Are you having similar issues?

 

[mac102004]

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, and I probably am... but I think that sensor doesn't sense when the ATV is in reverse, there is a gear position sensor that does that. The sensor in the video only senses when the lockout arm has been moved out of the way (cable is pulled on handlebars), it sends the all clear signal to the ECM and the machine is allowed to shift into reverse.

 

[Jeepwm69]

Yep, that switch grounds when the lockout arm has been moved. Only when it's grounded with the computer on the ES and AT models allow you to shift into reverse.

On the wife's 09 420AT, there is additional safety feature that won't allow it to shift into reverse unless the speedometer reads zero, so I adjusted her brake cable to always hold the lockout arm in the disengaged position, which means she doesn't have to do the red button and pull method anymore, and the bike still can't be accidentally shifted into reverse if the bike is moving.

 

[wheelsquad]

Yep, that switch grounds when the lockout arm has been moved. Only when it's grounded with the computer on the ES and AT models allow you to shift into reverse.

On the wife's 09 420AT, there is additional safety feature that won't allow it to shift into reverse unless the speedometer reads zero, so I adjusted her brake cable to always hold the lockout arm in the disengaged position, which means she doesn't have to do the red button and pull method anymore, and the bike still can't be accidentally shifted into reverse if the bike is moving.

That's what I've done too. Except instead of adjusting the able, we just put a zip tie around the inner lockout cable, between the stub lever and the perch. Did it to both a 2004 Recon ES and a 1995 Foreman 400.

 

[gitterson]

I am getting ready to try some repairs for this issue. I'm going to try to ask questions one by one as it's how I think best.

I currently have a 2002 Rancher ES 4x4 (shows as trx350FE2 on the frame). Details:

* I have no issue shifting up/down moving forward
* Will not shift into reverse using the ES
* NO ISSUES shifting into reverse with the manual lever (From Neutral: press red button>pull handle brake>rotate wrench forward on manual adjuster=set to reverse)
* Display lights and readout are always accurate with respect to the current gear


So, first question: Is it true that, because I can manually shift it into reverse (and everything else is normal), that the lockout arm is working/moving properly?


Thanks.

-g

 

[wheelsquad]

So, first question: Is it true that, because I can manually shift it into reverse (and everything else is normal), that the lockout arm is working/moving properly?

Let other guys respond too before taking my answer too seriously. I'm just one guy with my own limits of experience...but yes, I believe your lockout arm is working properly if it is letting you shift into reverse manually. Just like a footshift model, they also need the lockout mechanism to be working properly to physically get it to go into reverse.

 

[Jeepwm69]

The correct way to fix it is to replace the sensor on the back of the motor (assuming it's connected). You might get away with cleaning the connector (or the wire may have just come off of the sensor).

Take the wire and ground it, and have someone see if the machine will go into reverse using ES. If so, the connection or sensor is bad.

You could simply ground the wire and leave it grounded. You still won't be able to shift into reverse without the lockout arm being disengaged from the shift drum.

 

[gitterson]

...OK, I'm proceeding with the understanding that the lockout arm is working properly.


Jeepwm69, you have lead me to my next question, which has a couple of parts. First, more details:

* The connection that goes to this sensor is attached and doesn't seem loose, etc.
* I have not tested continuity or anything, but the wire (at least at/around the sensor) appears undamaged.


IF it is the sensor that is bad, I assume that bypassing/grounding it would prove that out?
If yes, then I'm sorry to say I have a very basic follow up question: HOW (specifically) do I "ground" the wire going to the sensor?

If it's an instrument, I can record it. If it's a piece of software, I can design it. As for fixing bikes...well, I'm new to all of this, but I want to learn.


Thanks.

-g

 

[retro]

If it's an instrument, I can record it. If it's a piece of software, I can design it. If its a suspect sensor, I can test my hypothesis by bypassing that sensor temporarily... by unplugging it from the wiring harness and grounding the wire in the harness plug (using a short jumper wire or a small screwdriver poked into the plug) to the motor case or frame while my friend/partner operates the ES shift button for me.

There, fixed it for ya... Like software... its just logic.

 

[gitterson]

If I read this right, I'm supposed to:

* Unplug the cable going to the sensor
* Cut a short piece of (solid copper?) wire, stripping both ends
* Push one end of the short wire into the end of the cable that was going to the sensor
* Touch the other end of the short wire to the frame of the Rancher
* Have someone else put it in Reverse via the ES


Questions:

Is it unsafe for me to use something to secure the wire to both the cable and the frame to operate the ES myself? To be clear, I have already ordered the sensor to replace it. I'm not even considering grounding it permanently. I just want to be able to test it myself.

I know that I can turn the key on this machine and, as long as it's flat and stationary, the ES will shift up and down - but I can't remember if it would also go into reverse. As long as it is shifting this way, can you confirm that it doesn't need to be running to test this?

 

[Melatv]

Hi: So what you are saying you can up shift & down shift with the buttons -- when you are using the shift tool it will shift into reverse and the reverse light will come on ---correct ?
When you down shift with the down shift button & the red button is in place -- you have the Neutral light on and you shift down again & it will not go into reverse.
So the reverse switch is okay because it told the ECU the reverse switch was made with the shift tool and the gear position switch is okay because it put the reverse light on.

 

[gitterson]

Melatv-

Yes, you are correct in all that you said/asked. My questions:

* If what you are suggesting is true, in the original video the display would not have shown properly if he had tried to put the machine in reverse manually - correct?
* If I were to disconnect that cable and then put it into reverse manually, the display NOT show the proper gear - correct?


Thanks.

-g

 

[Goober]

Attached is the troubleshooting guide for the sensor have you seen this?
Manual link below

If you get continuity at the switch and cables then you have to suspect the ECU.

 

[Jeepwm69]

Yep, just run a jumper wire from the connector to the neg battery post (frame grounds can be iffy unless you have nice bare metal so I always run directly to the battery neg).

See if it will shift into R using the ES buttons.