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Hey guys, I asked this on another thread but it wasn't all on this topic so I figured id start this thread. So my buddy has a first generation rancher 420 and he parked it one day and came back a week later and it wouldn't start. The fuel pump is not cycling and he has no spark. His dash is displaying - - and flashing constantly. He's replaced the fuel pump solenoid, the angle sensor and, checked all the fuses. He used the Honda ATV code puller and ill link the video to him doing that down below. The PS light is doing 10 slower blinks then one fast blink. This thing has been siting for just over a year now and hes desperate, any knowledge is greatly appreciated!!!
 

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Hey guys, I asked this on another thread but it wasn't all on this topic so I figured id start this thread. So my buddy has a first generation rancher 420 and he parked it one day and came back a week later and it wouldn't start. The fuel pump is not cycling and he has no spark. His dash is displaying - - and flashing constantly. He's replaced the fuel pump solenoid, the angle sensor and, checked all the fuses. He used the Honda ATV code puller and ill link the video to him doing that down below. The PS light is doing 10 slower blinks then one fast blink. This thing has been siting for just over a year now and hes desperate, any knowledge is greatly appreciated!!! https://youtu.be/oM_eMFvUHgI


Not sure about ps light but my rancher when -- showing the dash I need to manually shift it thru the gears while rocking until I find N, needed to produce spark. Has the battery been charged and load tested, have the connections been cleaned. The bike might have multiple issues so eliminate the simple stuff. If it ran prior to parking there is no reason it won't run now. When sitting batteries can freeze if not maintained, corrosion of terminals is common.


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Run a jumper wire from battery + to the red and black coil wire and see if it fires off.

That bypasses the bank angle sensor, the fuel injection relay, and all the other crap they have on the EFI machines now.

If it's been sitting for a year, especially with ethanol gas in it, the fuel pump is probably trashed. They seize up if you let them sit in ethanol gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Run a jumper wire from battery + to the red and black coil wire and see if it fires off.

That bypasses the bank angle sensor, the fuel injection relay, and all the other crap they have on the EFI machines now.

If it's been sitting for a year, especially with ethanol gas in it, the fuel pump is probably trashed. They seize up if you let them sit in ethanol gas.
Alright he will give that a try! thank you for your input!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Run a jumper wire from battery + to the red and black coil wire and see if it fires off.

That bypasses the bank angle sensor, the fuel injection relay, and all the other crap they have on the EFI machines now.

If it's been sitting for a year, especially with ethanol gas in it, the fuel pump is probably trashed. They seize up if you let them sit in ethanol gas.
Aright so he just ran a wire from the battery to the coil and he still has no spark so does that mean the coil is bad?
 

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Hi: Did you leave R/Bl wire on the coil when using the jumper wire? -- if not leave it on when trying it.
 

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When you say no spark so that implies it is spinning over. Correct? Is the plug new? Have you load tested the battery? Sometimes there is just enough battery power to spin but not enough to spin it fast enough to start.
 

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Hi: With the key on do you have 12 volt DC on the Ign. coil Bl/R wire to battery neg.
 
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Hi: I copied this from your other post -- jumping around gets confusing -- Quote:
Originally Posted by Melatv View Post
Hi: Check the continuity of the UP/DN buttons -- There is only 5 volts DC on the contacts of the switches.
Could you explain where to check continuity? I do have the proper tester.

The best place to test it would be disconnect the PCM -- check for corrosion on the pins also.

SEL V is common for the UP & DN
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi: I copied this from your other post -- jumping around gets confusing -- Quote:
Originally Posted by Melatv View Post
Hi: Check the continuity of the UP/DN buttons -- There is only 5 volts DC on the contacts of the switches.
Could you explain where to check continuity? I do have the proper tester.

The best place to test it would be disconnect the PCM -- check for corrosion on the pins also.

SEL V is common for the UP & DN
i apologize if i am frustrating you but where is the PCM? is it the relay in the es shift module? what would need to be replaced if it has low voltage?
 

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Hi: The PCM is in back of the battery space it has a 33 pin connector on it-- there is also a relay back there that controls the engine stop and the fuel pump, they are both in the one unit (relay)

When checking the UP/DN button may sure the key is off.
Also you can check the engine stop on the same connector Bl/W wire to the right where you tested the UP/DN -- the bl/W wire should have 12 volt dc on it with the key on.

No need to apologize -- I would not leave anyone in the woods
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi: The PCM is in back of the battery space it has a 33 pin connector on it-- there is also a relay back there that controls the engine stop and the fuel pump, they are both in the one unit (relay)

When checking the UP/DN button may sure the key is off.
Also you can check the engine stop on the same connector Bl/W wire to the right where you tested the UP/DN -- the bl/W wire should have 12 volt dc on it with the key on.

No need to apologize -- I would not leave anyone in the woods
I will give that a shot tomorrow if i get a chance. Ill get back to you if i have any questions.
 

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Just so I can catch up up and get a look at things. Can you post a pic or video of the rear of the engine where he replace the angle sensor. Also post a pic of what he his calling the "fuel pump solenoid" that he replaced as well so we can get a look at what going on.
And what year make model is his bike?
Does the dash blink anything without the code puller attached?

You can test if the pump works by taking it off the bike and connecting it directly to the battery with two small wires to the two electrical posts on top of the pump. Be careful it will shoot fuel strait up if it's working. I can't remember which post on the fuel pump is the positive side but try both sides. Neg to one post and pos to the other post. If it doesn't work then replace the fuel pump.

For spark double check that the kill switch on the handle bar is in the on position and make sure the airbox is plugged in. A 420 will not start/spark without the airbox sensor plugged in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just so I can catch up up and get a look at things. Can you post a pic or video of the rear of the engine where he replace the angle sensor. Also post a pic of what he his calling the "fuel pump solenoid" that he replaced as well so we can get a look at what going on.
And what year make model is his bike?
Does the dash blink anything without the code puller attached?

You can test if the pump works by taking it off the bike and connecting it directly to the battery with two small wires to the two electrical posts on top of the pump. Be careful it will shoot fuel strait up if it's working. I can't remember which post on the fuel pump is the positive side but try both sides. Neg to one post and pos to the other post. If it doesn't work then replace the fuel pump.

For spark double check that the kill switch on the handle bar is in the on position and make sure the airbox is plugged in. A 420 will not start/spark without the airbox sensor plugged in.
Sorry he meant fuel pump relay not solenoid. He said it may be a couple days until he can work on the bike again but i will get back to you then! Here is a picture of the angle sensor and fuel pump relay.
 

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Lol oh ok
Tell him to test that fuel pump as above and see if it works. Also be sure to connect that air box sensor.
If you jumped to the coil with 12 volts then the coil could be bad but definitely send us a video of what the dash does while just turning on the key so we can see if any codes are being thrown without the Honda reader connected because it looks like it's showing a bunch of old codes with that reader on it.
 
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