[Karamazov]

Hello guys, I've been reading the forums quite a bit the past few days, searching for existing threads and trying to implement the instructions I found. Unfortunately, I think I I have to make a post and ask for some help. I hate for my first post to be asking for assistance, but I'm at my wit's end.

I have a Honda FourTrax TRX200D Type II, model is 1996 according to my coworker from whom I got it, but it *might* be a '95.

I bought a new battery and connected it, but no lights come on at all and the ignition will not fire. I have looked at the manual and the wiring diagram, but the wiring in my bike looks different. The thing that perplexes me is that it definitely looks like the original wiring, so I don't think someone has rewired it incorrectly.

The positive from the battery terminal goes directly into the wiring harness along the frame on the right side of the bike. According to the wiring diagram, there should be two wires, though. One going to the solenoid, and the other going to the wiring harness like it is now. The negative wire from the battery terminal on my current set up goes to the solenoid, whereas in the wiring diagram it goes to a ground not located on the solenoid.

Could this be my problem?

Thanks in advance. Much appreciated.

 

[cmanningjr]

I’ve personally never saw a negative go to the solenoid. Check your vin and make sure you’ve got the right year manual


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[Karamazov]

I'm pretty sure. Here's the wiring diagram. I'm admittedly new to auto repair outside of bolt-on car mods. Here's a picture of the wiring diagram. I confirmed that this is the correct wiring diagram for my model. Mine is a 1996 200D Type II, this is the correct manual for it. I should say that in the manual it does show the negative from the battery going off as a ground, but in my actual wiring, it's connected to the solenoid.

 

[cmanningjr]

Ok, then your bike has been messed with and is wrong..
Unfortunately, this can damage other components..

There’s not a ground on the solenoid. It’s basically a switch to turn the started motor on. The starter is grounded to the motor which is grounded to the frame by the negative wire on the negative side of the battery


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[Karamazov]

Ok, thank you very much for the information. If I connect the wires correctly and, it still does not power on the neutral lights/starter, would you suggest starting by replacing the solenoid, then going on from there?

 

[cmanningjr]

I would follow the diagram and get everything corrected. More than likely, it’s just the cables got reversed.. but double check to make sure.. then follow your path with a multimeter or at least a test light to troubleshoot from there.. let us know how it goes or if you have anymore problems..


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[Karamazov]

Ok, will do. Thank you again. I will get back on here Sunday and let you know what ended up happening.

 

[cmanningjr]

Sounds good!


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[Karamazov]

Welp, I got it fixed. You were right, the wiring was screwed up. I followed the diagram and everything has power now. I reassembled everything and it starts, but will only idle a few seconds before dying. I know it's a carburetor issue, but I think it's the settings. I've rebuilt it and it's clean, but I can't find recommended settings on it. I'll keep searching. Thanks, manning, for all your help! If you have a lead on where I can find the settings for the carb, or can just spit it out off the top of your head let me know! Thanks again!

 

[cmanningjr]

Glad you got her going!

Set your air fuel screw 2 turns out and adjust from there..



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[Karamazov]

Hey Manning, on the inside of the carb there are two hexbolt slotted brass needles. What should their settings be?

 

[cmanningjr]

Hey Manning, on the inside of the carb there are two hexbolt slotted brass needles. What should their settings be?

Let me look at a diagram and see what you’re talking about..



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[Karamazov]

It's the main jet and the pilot jet.

 

[cmanningjr]

It's the main jet and the pilot jet.

Snug those up. The air/fuel screw will be on the side of the carb


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[Karamazov]

Man oh man, I really can't thank you enough. Not quite sure why, but when I try to start it it won't start up by itself, but if I press the throttle a little it fires right up and idles perfectly.

I'm done working on it tonight. I'm sure it's got something to do with the A/F screw or the on that's on the other side that controls the gas flow down the overflow tube, but compared to what it was yesterday morning (no power, no nothing) this is major progress. I'll post some pictures/video tomorrow afternoon or evening to update you.

 

[retro]

The choke might be hung open a bit if you need to give it air to start it? Attached is a screenshot from section 5 of the service manual pertaining to the initial airscrew adjustment.... cmanningjr advice is spot on..!

 

[cmanningjr]

Glad it’s running and you’ve made progress. Let us know how it goes.

Give the info Retro posted and see if that clears it up a little.


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[Karamazov]

The choke might be hung open a bit if you need to give it air to start it? Attached is a screenshot from section 5 of the service manual pertaining to the initial airscrew adjustment.... cmanningjr advice is spot on..!

Thank you as well! I've tried it at all stages of choked: Fully, fully open, half choke and various other positions while watching the valve to make sure the cable isn't the problem but it just won't start unless I hold the throttle slightly while pushing the start button.

 

[Wilber1]

Hi I'm new here. Are you sure you got the pilot circuit cleaned. Run a small wire through the pilot jet. Usually it will have to be a single Bristol from a wire brush to be small enough. Is there a second vin location on these machines? I got one used with no ownership from my wifes boss. It had some front end damage at one time and they painted over the vin after repairing it. I tried cleaning it off but as its a sticker it is damaged too bad to decipher.

 

[Karamazov]

Hi I'm new here. Are you sure you got the pilot circuit cleaned. Run a small wire through the pilot jet. Usually it will have to be a single Bristol from a wire brush to be small enough. Is there a second vin location on these machines? I got one used with no ownership from my wifes boss. It had some front end damage at one time and they painted over the vin after repairing it. I tried cleaning it off but as its a sticker it is damaged too bad to decipher.

Hey Wilbur, thanks for the suggestion. I have been very busy (working 48 on 24 off) and haven't gotten to update lately but finally found the time to do so. SOOOO.... *Almost* everything is done. I cleaned the carb, replaced the chain, replaced the brake shoes and bearings in the front end, restored the plastic, replaced the tensioner bolts, rebuilt the brake cylinders in each of the front wheels, rebuilt the master cylinder and bled the brakes, put in a new fuse for the main positive lead, replaced the battery, painted the racks, replaced the fuel line and vacuum hoses. I think that's it so far.

After all that I took it out and rode it hard for about an hour and a half and had 0 problems out of it. It was running like a top.

The only things left to do are replace the shoes in the rear brakes and replaced a headlight bulb.

Today I took off the rear wheel and got down to the actual drum and, for the life of me, could not get that son of a B off. I ended up putting the wheel back on and riding it a bit just to make sure everything was still golden.

So, that brings me to the two remaining problems:

#1 - How the hell do I get the freaking brake drum off so I can replace the shoes?
#2 - When I press the throttle wide open it bogs down big time. If I continue holding it down, it will die. This didn't happen the first time I took it out and rode it for an hour and a half, so I don't know what changed. Does the carb need adjusting? Is there something clogging the vacuum hose or fuel line?


You guys have been a huge help, without this forum I would still be staring at a pile of junk in my garage.

Thanks again!