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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So as promised...more problems! Lol they keep on coming...

Retapped the sump plug the other day only to find it still leaked oil, but not from the plug...

Anyway it still leaked, seemed to be coming from higher than the sump plug. Pulled the motor only to find that one of the reasons I got this bike so cheap is that someone had obviously cracked the aluminium between the front lower case halves. They patched it with some sort of liquid metal and thats where it was leaking from.

Anyway, so the correct way would be to split the motor and replace the case half that is buggered. I've got a parts motor from a 93...ish model...I'll look up the engine serial number to find out the actual year model.

First off, will the case halves interchange between a 93...ish model and a 98 model?

And the most important thing, how the heck do you remember where everything goes? I'll be sure to take my time on this one, lay everything out nice and organised. I know at least afew people have successfully done this before lol. I'll clean the attempted repair off and see how it looks....

So any tricks to the trade would be highly appreciated.
 

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They didn't even clean the cracked area up and sand the aluminum off so the patch material could bond. That looks like kids play... and was probably caused by loose or missing motor mount bolts. You'll probably find a gazillion more problems with this bike if the PO owned it for more than week... :-(

You didn't say whether your bike is a 2wd or an FW? The cases are different between those.

As far as disassembly & reassembly goes there are no tricks to learn. If you've never done this work before, read the service manual all of the way through each relevant chapter, BEFORE you begin. You'll need to familiarize yourself with what you are about to get into... you'll learn about precautions to take in order to minimize surprise events occurring. Most importantly, you'll learn how to do the job right.

Print the relevant service manual chapters off so you'll have a paper copy you can follow (in order) as you work. If you have any questions or need any help as you go, just ask... there are no dumb questions... keep a smile on and enjoy your work!
 

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you could clean all the stuff off and re-seal it up with some of the high tech stuff they have out there now days , when I worked offshore in the oil field , I use to watch the divers mix up a paste they they would apply to leaking pipeline pipes with 1,400 psi running thru it , an hour later and they would turn the pressure back on
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah the people that owned it before me never exactly looked after it, hence the reason I got it for next to nothing.

The working motor with the cracked case is 2wd and the parts motor is also 2wd. I'll be sure to study the service manual as I already have a copy.

Thanks for the help, Im sure I'll be back to ask questions.
 

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Great reply there from retro.

You could get it welded as it is. BUT, it may still leak, thought I’d mention another possibility incase you have a friend who has a TIG and is able to do such a job.
Could also be has welded if you have the facilities and know how.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great reply there from retro.

You could get it welded as it is. BUT, it may still leak, thought I’d mention another possibility incase you have a friend who has a TIG and is able to do such a job.
Could also be has welded if you have the facilities and know how.
Thanks Sam,
I'll use the case off my parts motor for now to get it running again. But I do have a friend who is a good tig welder, so I'll hit him up and see if it might make a good spare.
 

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If the cases are parted it will weld no problem and be good to see another day, I must have missed that you had a donor bike. Good job you do I guess, at least you can get the job done properly:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If the cases are parted it will weld no problem and be good to see another day, I must have missed that you had a donor bike. Good job you do I guess, at least you can get the job done properly:)
Nope just the motor, and a few miscellaneous lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
While I dont doubt that I could do a job like splitting the cases myself, I decided to go ahead and just reseal it with some more liquid metal stuff like fishfiles said. I wire brushed the area then cleaned it down with acetone. After it dried I put a coating of rtv selant on it too help seal it. I know....i know...probably not the best way to do it, but if it gets it back up and running and helps it stop leaking oil well thats a win for me. I'll wait for something more serious later on to have an excuse to pull the motor apart, and by then money might not be as much of an issue.

Thanks for the help everyone, its really appreciated.
 

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'Snipe' , good luck , nothing to lose but time , maybe keep and eye out for a parts bike with a good motor , but then again you may never need it -------- what type of metal putty did you go with
 

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While I dont doubt that I could do a job like splitting the cases myself, I decided to go ahead and just reseal it with some more liquid metal stuff like fishfiles said. I wire brushed the area then cleaned it down with acetone. After it dried I put a coating of rtv selant on it too help seal it. I know....i know...probably not the best way to do it, but if it gets it back up and running and helps it stop leaking oil well thats a win for me. I'll wait for something more serious later on to have an excuse to pull the motor apart, and by then money might not be as much of an issue.

Thanks for the help everyone, its really appreciated.
I can tell you right now, once that engine gets hot ?, that rtv sealant will flake off, wont stick, and leak oil again.so...KEEP AN EYE ON IT !!..you've been warned ! :).
 

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You can braze alloys, you can also do this at home with a propane torch ;-)
 
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If you read his post , he didn't say he use silicone to make the repair , he put " metal putty " on first , I might agree putting the silicone over the top ain't going to do nothing , but if he used the right "metal putty " underneath , it ain't going to leak , something like two part Devon and it will hold in excess of 1,500 psi at high temps and never let go , they apply that stuff to high pressure pipelines in 500 -5000 ft of water , and do it while under water --------- my EZGO Workhorse cracked the block at the motor mount from ragging it thru the mud ruts , it was leaking motor oil , I put " metal putty " , lol , on it about 8 years ago now , found another engine for it , the engine is still sitting right where I put it when I got it , I don't want to change it unless it is absolutely necessary
 

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If you read his post , he didn't say he use silicone to make the repair , he put " metal putty " on first , I might agree putting the silicone over the top ain't going to do nothing , but if he used the right "metal putty " underneath , it ain't going to leak , something like two part Devon and it will hold in excess of 1,500 psi at high temps and never let go , they apply that stuff to high pressure pipelines in 500 -5000 ft of water , and do it while under water --------- my EZGO Workhorse cracked the block at the motor mount from ragging it thru the mud ruts , it was leaking motor oil , I put " metal putty " , lol , on it about 8 years ago now , found another engine for it , the engine is still sitting right where I put it when I got it , I don't want to change it unless it is absolutely necessary
yes, I read where he said he putty the metal stuff on it ...but I also read where he said he topped it off with rtv crap..and I know all to well..that won't stick to a warm/hot motor..ever !!..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you read his post , he didn't say he use silicone to make the repair , he put " metal putty " on first , I might agree putting the silicone over the top ain't going to do nothing , but if he used the right "metal putty " underneath , it ain't going to leak , something like two part Devon and it will hold in excess of 1,500 psi at high temps and never let go , they apply that stuff to high pressure pipelines in 500 -5000 ft of water , and do it while under water --------- my EZGO Workhorse cracked the block at the motor mount from ragging it thru the mud ruts , it was leaking motor oil , I put " metal putty " , lol , on it about 8 years ago now , found another engine for it , the engine is still sitting right where I put it when I got it , I don't want to change it unless it is absolutely necessary
yes, I read where he said he putty the metal stuff on it ...but I also read where he said he topped it off with rtv crap..and I know all to well..that won't stick to a warm/hot motor..ever !!..lol.
Now you all say that, I didn't check the temperature rating...so back to cleaning it all off and getting some high temp stuff. The rtv selant was just an idea...a crappy one obviously lol, to help it stop leaking if the liquid metal puddy didnt cover the crack. While I've got the motor out I'll figure I'll do it somewhat right lol. Now I know that rtv selant wont stick to a hot motor lol. All the little things you learn from making mistakes like this lol.

Appreciate all the info!
 

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If you read his post , he didn't say he use silicone to make the repair , he put " metal putty " on first , I might agree putting the silicone over the top ain't going to do nothing , but if he used the right "metal putty " underneath , it ain't going to leak , something like two part Devon and it will hold in excess of 1,500 psi at high temps and never let go , they apply that stuff to high pressure pipelines in 500 -5000 ft of water , and do it while under water --------- my EZGO Workhorse cracked the block at the motor mount from ragging it thru the mud ruts , it was leaking motor oil , I put " metal putty " , lol , on it about 8 years ago now , found another engine for it , the engine is still sitting right where I put it when I got it , I don't want to change it unless it is absolutely necessary
yes, I read where he said he putty the metal stuff on it ...but I also read where he said he topped it off with rtv crap..and I know all to well..that won't stick to a warm/hot motor..ever !!..lol.
Now you all say that, I didn't check the temperature rating...so back to cleaning it all off and getting some high temp stuff. The rtv selant was just an idea...a crappy one obviously lol, to help it stop leaking if the liquid metal puddy didnt cover the crack. While I've got the motor out I'll figure I'll do it somewhat right lol. Now I know that rtv selant wont stick to a hot motor lol. All the little things you learn from making mistakes like this lol.

Appreciate all the info!
hey, I wasn't trying to be mean at ya :), just trying to teach ya..and i'm glad your learning !!!. trust me..i have learned tons of stuff in my 20 plus years of doing this kinda work !. some things you can cut corners on..and some..well...ya ..just...don't !!..lol.
 

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your best bet ?, either replace the cracked case ?, or..have it tig welded up by someone that does aluminum ?. I've seen oil drain area's welded up, and it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
your best bet ?, either replace the cracked case ?, or..have it tig welded up by someone that does aluminum ?. I've seen oil drain area's welded up, and it worked.
Thanks shadetree always good to have someone pointing you in the right direction lol.

So if I were to do this, I'd need a complete engine gasket kit and a bucket load of time? How long do you think it would take a first timer?

I know the proper way to do it would be to split the cases and change them over but if I can get this to hold oil for a month or two then I can do it right. Just trying to slow the amount of money I'm pouring into these things lol...

But trust me! I will do it right sooner or later, just waiting for the money bank to fill up lol.

And I agree, shouldn't be a problem for a good tig welder.
 

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your best bet ?, either replace the cracked case ?, or..have it tig welded up by someone that does aluminum ?. I've seen oil drain area's welded up, and it worked.
Thanks shadetree always good to have someone pointing you in the right direction lol.

So if I were to do this, I'd need a complete engine gasket kit and a bucket load of time? How long do you think it would take a first timer?

I know the proper way to do it would be to split the cases and change them over but if I can get this to hold oil for a month or two then I can do it right. Just trying to slow the amount of money I'm pouring into these things lol...

But trust me! I will do it right sooner or later, just waiting for the money bank to fill up lol.

And I agree, shouldn't be a problem for a good tig welder.
a first timer ?, about 3 hours split, fixed, back together. me ?, about an hour and a half if I take my time..lol.
 
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