[fishfiles]

I found a 680 that has been garage keep it's entire life and is in immaculate condition and I believe that it has never been in real mud , strictly a deer hunting bike , it is a 2006 ( first year I think ) , it has 200 miles and 60 hours on it , when you try to start it , it sputters and spits , the fuel in the tank doesn't smell or look bad but Iam pretty sure it is soured as it has not run in 2 years , I don't know anything about a 680 , don't see a carb so it must be fuel injected -------- it has a few extras , custom aluminum rims with ITP's , racks on back and font , winch , light bar , stick stoppers , and a cover

so I got 5 questions :

1)what is involved in cleaning out the injection system if bad fuel is the issue ?
2) what would be a good price to buy this bike
3) what was it worth new
4) should I stay away from the 680
5) what is the worst case senerio , dollar wise , for bad fuel in the injection system

 

[alloutdoors]

I found a 680 that has been garage keep it's entire life and is in immaculate condition and I believe that it has never been in real mud , strictly a deer hunting bike , it is a 2006 ( first year I think ) , it has 200 miles and 60 hours on it , when you try to start it , it sputters and spits , the fuel in the tank doesn't smell or look bad but Iam pretty sure it is soured as it has not run in 2 years , I don't know anything about a 680 , don't see a carb so it must be fuel injected -------- it has a few extras , custom aluminum rims with ITP's , racks on back and font , winch , light bar , stick stoppers , and a cover

so I got 5 questions :

1)what is involved in cleaning out the injection system if bad fuel is the issue ?
2) what would be a good price to buy this bike
3) what was it worth new
4) should I stay away from the 680
5) what is the worst case senerio , dollar wise , for bad fuel in the injection system

I assume you found a Rincon 680, correct? The unit should has a automatic with hydraulic torque converter and I will let others weigh in on comments regarding reliability, etc. With that said, you really want to see a running unit, because "if by chance" the transmission has issues, then, WOW this will turn into a real mess, unless you have access to Shadetree, LOL. Units like that sell around here anywhere from 2-3K running and in very good condition. Non-running and willing to tackle the unknown, then I would start at $500 and see what they think.

 

[mac102004]

1) You never see problems with the EFI machines like you do the carb machines. I would say as long as you can get fresh gas running through the system and clean out or replace the fuel filter that's in the fuel pump canister...it shouldn't take much to get running again. If the pump itself is beyond repair your looking at a $100 part, a replacement injector is about $50....

2) No idea on price

3) $7800 for non GPS, $8000 with GPS

4) No 680's are great machines as long as your not trying to run 30" tires on them.

5) $100 fuel pump and $200 throttle body, not much else to it. The ECM that controls it is $520, but I doubt there is anything wrong with that, really don't see many issues from the ECM's themselves.

The trans on the Rincon is not like the Hondamatics where you cannot rebuild them. The Rincon's transmission is completely serviceable and very very reliable. The ES system on them shares nothing with the other ES machines, other than the buttons on the handlebar. I have owned one in the past and would own one again.

 

[_Wilson_]

Got a question for you Mac (or any other owner of these machines ) did you ever have rear drive line brake chatter ? As there's a string in the forum about rear disk mounting rivits working loose , not trying to rain on fishes (posable purchase) cause I've got my eye on one as well, just don't know too much about these animals. Just want a heads up before i deside.

Another question, these machines do have rear disk brakes biult into the rear drive shaft ?

 

[mac102004]

Got a question for you Mac (or any other owner of these machines ) did you ever have rear drive line brake chatter ? As there's a string in the forum about rear disk mounting rivits working loose , not trying to rain on fishes (posable purchase) cause I've got my eye on one as well, just don't know too much about these animals. Just want a heads up before i deside.

Another question, these machines do have rear disk brakes biult into the rear drive shaft ?

Rear driveline chatter is pretty normal on any of the IRS Honda's with the brake on the rear driveshaft, because when you brake it has to take up all of the slop in the diff and CV's before actually stopping at the wheels. The Rincon's did have issues with the 2 piece rear disk, like you said the rivets would work loose and make a lot of noise. They updated the design in 2009, so any machine built after that has the new disc on it. Also the old part number is superseded to the new style disc, so if you were to repair it you'd be putting the new style disc on anyway. So I wouldn't worry too much about that overall. It's still better than drum brakes lol

 

[_Wilson_]

Very helpfull, thank you Mac, so there's an update, your not making my descission to buy easy, lol, kinda the same deal as fishes a bit more miles, thing is i don't know anything about those machines (not much)

 

[fishfiles]

So right ! I have never even ridden a 680 , in fact I I have not ridden with anyone that has one and know very little about them ------------ but after researching it some what , seems not something I want any part of

 

[mac102004]

They aren't mudder's, they are trail machines. Like I said, if you want to run 30's on it it's not the machine for you. If you want to run 26-27's and ride fast aggressive trails few other machines can touch it. It's the fastest and most powerful Honda as far as top speed and acceleration goes. They are just as reliable as any other modern Honda. If you have specific questions on them I can't probably answer 99% of them, but I can't make up your mind for you.

 

[will.kostial]

It's a good trail quad and that's about it. The torque converter with the 3 speed tranny sucks the power out of it. It struggles turning 28" bighorn 2.0 with a 28% gear reduction and a hmf exhaust with a optimizer. I'm speaking from experience with it from my own. I once had a 2" lift with HL springs, hmf performance exhaust with optimizer, and a 28% gear reduction. 1st gear I would say is equal to maybe 2 or 3rd gear on a rubicon. I have since went down to 26" allterain tires and used it as a trail bike.

Mac pretty much nailed it in the description. They are very reliable if left in stock or close to stock form.

650's are carb (2003-2005) 680's are fuel injected (2006-present)

 

[_Wilson_]

Well..... I'll agree with the disk brakes, Mac, but i can always pull a fish disk brake mod on the front of the 300, lol
The 680 machine is a monster size! I think i can find better ways to spend four grand, another 300 or 500 foreman (forsure) thanks again for the advise and descript, I'll wait and see who else chimes in on this string, very helpfull guys, thanks

 

[_Wilson_]

What would you recommend ? 650 model carb (2003-2005) or a 680 fuel injected (2006-present)

If a 650 can be located ? The one I'm intrested in is a 680

Don't think I've ever heard of a 650

Thanks for the information

 

[mac102004]

The 680 had a lot of updates on the 650. Updated torque converter for faster warm up time, more power, more torque, EFI, front disk brakes, to name a few. But the basic machine is identical. Nothing as far as the body, frame, suspension diffs, etc. changed much. Most aftermarket parts will fit both. If I was looking for one I'd probably want a 680 but wouldn't turn down a 650 if the price was right.

 

[_Wilson_]

Thanks Mac , i haven't dessided yet, I'd like to have apic to show y'all, but if that guy saw me take a pic he would INDEED go up in price, faster and more power I wouldn't mind, lol
Do those models have dif locks front and back ? I figure just the front only, and i gather it's 2x4 or 4x4, i didn't read up like fish, I'd rather here it from you guys who own them

 

[_Wilson_]

Never mind, 06 sold. For five, no way I'd give that!

 

[Manny]

Those machines hold their value big time around here.

it would fetch $4500.

As long as your not asking for it to act like a tug boat, they are a good machine. but don't make it work, that's not what its meant to be, they didn't even offer a receiver hitch for it, its meant for high speed trail riding. and it excels there.

 

[mac102004]

No diff lock on them, rear is a spool like any other Honda, front is that torque sensing foolishless that never works. Has 2wd/4wd switch on it, can run in auto or ES (3 gears).

When I had mine I ran a DGL in it, which is no longer made. But it basically locked the front end for full 4wd. Made a huge difference, but steering was noticeably harder.

 

[Jeepwm69]

A friend of mine has a Rincon that I've been slowly but surely rebuilding for several months. I'm really close to finishing it now.

My .02.

They hold their resale VERY well. Around here a 680 Rincon in good shape will not go cheaper than $4k. The 650's don't bring less than $3500 unless they are parts bikes. These are not "like new" prices. These are used but still decent shape prices.

The gearing sucks, BUT the power makes up for it. My buddy's 680 will go everywhere any of the rest of us can go. I put a Big Red Gear Reduction in his but we haven't run it yet to try it out.

The ride is great. I like solid axles. For my uses, SRA makes more sense than IRS. That said, the Rincons ride like a Cadillac.

They are TOUGH as hell. I've worried and worried about the one in my yard. I knew that once my buddy trashed it I'd be rebuilding it. He's put it under three different times that I've been with him, and I think at least once more when I wasn't with him. It just started smoking last summer. Still ran like a top, just smoked. The automatic transmission that I thought would be toast if it ever went under was still fine. Not at all like the Hondamatics.

The guy that owns this one doesn't take care of anything. He runs it till it breaks, then buys new or gets me to fix it. He could break an anvil. His Rincon has about 5K on it and it has been abused to no end. Now is the first time it's ever had to have any work other than brake pads, a fuel filter, wheel bearings and oil changes.

I pulled the motor, put new oil pump chain and timing chain, new oil pump seals, Big Red Gear Reduction, .25 over piston and had the cylinder bored.

I also added a Foreman pod light some time ago. Not having a top light around here sucks when mud covers the lower lights.

For trail riding any really any use other than towing/work, they are great. New around here are pushing $10K out the door, and the design hasn't changed at all since 2006, so that's why resale is so high on them.

Even if you trash one people will pay big bigs for the parts. People cut the rear of the frame out with the IRS and splice it onto a Foreman frame to make an IRS Foreman.

The 650's had nikasil cylinders so they can't be bored. The 680's only have one oversize which is .25. If you ruin a .25 you have to go big bore or buy a new cylinder.

Like Mac said, 650's have drums up front, 680's have discs. You can put 680 discs on a 650 if you find a 650 that's a good deal.

From what I've seen the 650's can be tuned to put out more power than a 680. I haven't dug into any of them that far, but that's anecdotal "my old 650 was faster" from my buddy, and also from the Rincon gurus on Will Kostial's FB Rincon page.

My buddy's rear disc made noise. I put new pads on it and found the caliper was seized. Replaced both pads and calipers and it's been fine since. If you have an early rear disc go bad use the updated part and you won't have the problem again.

Fishfiles, my guess is sitting had ruined the fuel pump. They are just like the 420 fuel pumps and can go bad if you let them sit with ethanol gas in them.

If you can get it cheap (like $5K and under with those miles) I'd get it.

 

[mac102004]

Yeah the 650's were faster on the top end, and can be made to go faster with the Dynatek CDI. The most I could get out of mine was around 70mph, the best your going to get from a 680 would be around 65mph or so. So not a massive difference.


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[hodge5]

I recently heard a similar comment, "He could break an anvil with a glass mallet".

 

[_Wilson_]

Thanks guys very helpfull information ! I reckon I'll keep an eye out for another one, my main concern WAS the automatic tranny, you guys cleared me up on those, i reckon all my questions have been answered, so ....... Now it's between another 300 (craft Mac and cheese yellow 500) or maybe another 680, thing is 680s are rare animals here in my part of the country, the 500 has a winch (not working) and the quad sits out in the weather (i don't like that) I'm going to see if i can get some pics ,and start a new string, see what you guys think, again thanks for the help, a doctor owned/sold it. eh money people.........i don't have very deep pockets, lol, the yellow one I've worked on before, when i was wrenching best i can recall just oil changes/servicing, i believe the guy is asking 2500, no idea what year model it is, I'll find out later this afternoon.