[XplicitRacing6]

So I have my 1999 400 with the 16cc small bore. For some reason I keep cracking my header. I cracked it once about 2 months ago, and had a shop weld it back together; and now it cracked again. My bike was running a little rich, but its jetted correctly now. Is there something else causing the header to crack? Before I buy a new one I need to know if I need to fix something before I put it on. Thanks, any advice is appreciated.

 

[SlammedRanger]

Stock headers crack often. Usually its from going through water and getting it hot then really cold fast. That has been my experiance.

 

[XplicitRacing6]

Stock headers crack often. Usually its from going through water and getting it hot then really cold fast. That has been my experiance.

Alright thanks, I didn’t want to hear that because aftermarket ones are pricey. Oh well money grows on trees


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[SlammedRanger]

Shoot your telling me. My frame is currently being gusseted and powder coated. With shipping total out of pocket will be close to 500 dollars. I got that saved up and ready to drop. Im still saving for a +1 swingarm. Which is another almost 700 dollars......this is an expensive sport lol

 

[XplicitRacing6]

Shoot your telling me. My frame is currently being gusseted and powder coated. With shipping total out of pocket will be close to 500 dollars. I got that saved up and ready to drop. Im still saving for a +1 swingarm. Which is another almost 700 dollars......this is an expensive sport lol

Haha I know right. I have a +2 lone star rear axle if your looking for one. I don’t have a swingarm, otherwise I’d offer it


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[SlammedRanger]

No thanks. I have an rpm dominator 2 lifetime guaranteed axle. But if you come across a +1 or +1 1/4 houser,leager,rpm,lonestar or any other brand that is 4130 chromoly for less then 636 dollars i want it! Its almost impossible to find anything but lonestar anywhere.

 

[XplicitRacing6]

No thanks. I have an rpm dominator 2 lifetime guaranteed axle. But if you come across a +1 or +1 1/4 houser,leager,rpm,lonestar or any other brand that is 4130 chromoly for less then 636 dollars i want it! Its almost impossible to find anything but lonestar anywhere.

I hear ya man. If I come across one I’ll let you know. Figured I’d offer it in case you need one


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[XplicitRacing6]

Are you not a big fan of lone star?


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[SlammedRanger]

Ehh. Not really. I have bent a few of there axles and broken a few aswell. There warranty isnt great. They will bend it back for free once but it tends to snap the next time you bend it. RPMs axle if you could bend it. Is lifetime guaranteed from bending or breaking. If you bend it or break it you are a boss. They just dont bend. I have seen quads cartwheel down a hill and pin ball off trees and rip the hub clean off and not bend or hurt the rpm axle in anyway. Just chase the threads out from the nut that are still stuck on the axle and bolt new hub on and go.

 

[XplicitRacing6]

I have had my +2 rear axle and front a arms on my 416 for almost 3 years. Granted I don’t do too much jumping but I haven’t had a problem with them. I have never really bought stuff from rpm before. But I am looking for new front A Arms for my other 400. I may look into that company.


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[SlammedRanger]

Sadly they dont make a-arms for the 400ex. Only parts they make anymore are axles and carriers. They have some of the best carriers out there to. Using taper bearings like wheel bearings on a car. I really like houser slicast a-arms. If it wasnt for the fact i did a custom needle bearing upgrade on my albas (which took alot of time and effort) i would be getting houser. But for the price albas are built with good quality. And have held up to anything i can throw at them. There bushings were a crap design. (Delrin and chromed sleeves). But i can give you the full run down on the needle bearing upgrade and you can save alot of money.

 

[XplicitRacing6]

I would definitely be interested in seeing that and hearing about it. I love seeing new ways to make something better, and cheaper!


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[SlammedRanger]

Well i dont have pictures of it. It was such a drawn out process i didnt think to do a write up. But it required quite a bit of enginuity. I started by drilling the a-arm tube around the bushing out just a hair. It took like a couple thousandths of an inch. I will get you the measurments for the drill bit. I purchased it at fastenal. I want to say it was 7/8 but i will have to check to be sure. From there i got on ebay and purchased the caged needle bearings. Again i will get you the numbers off them when i get a chance. Then i had the stock sleeves turned down on a layth to be the measurment required for the needle bearings i.d. i got seals for each end also on ebay. I went with a double lip seal with a spring garter. I pressed 2 bearings in each end of the a-arm tube to the center then tapped the seals in until they seated against the bearing. Then for good measure i took the delrin bushings and trimmed them way down and put them in each end so it all stayed the same width. More or less used them as a shim with a small step in them to slide in the tube to hold. When its all said and done nothing looks different from the outside. But with the delrin bushing i could remove the shock and lift the a-arms up with the front wheel and it would stick in place. It would no joke hold up in the air. With the needle bearing you can lift it and let go and it falls and bounces on the ground. They move so much more fluid its insane.

 

[XplicitRacing6]

Holy cow that’s a process. Lol. That’s really interesting. I’ll definitely consider that, sounds really good. How much do you think you spent on it? And how many man hours? Also I’m in no rush to get anything done right now, so take your timing getting the info, I appreciate it. Thanks


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[SlammedRanger]

Total for bearings and seals was 50 bucks. Drill bit was like 10 bucks. I got the shafts turned for free by a good friend that worked for a race team.

I would say it took about 3 maybe 4 hours to do the job once i had all the stuff ready to go.