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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
we changed oil in my 350 rancher es 2005 and it smokes now. never did before we change the oil. the oil pumps up to top of motor and take along time to get back down to the pan . we took the top of the motor and it is not clogged up. is there a screen in the motor what may be clogged up or what could it be?? and help would be greatful. i got a book order but not here yet.

thanks vic:noworktomorrow::noworktomorrow:
 

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Welcome to the forum.
I'd say either you have a bad valve seal or you didn 't by chance over fill it did you, or decide to go full synthetic? Synthetic oils are good but they coat the cylinder walls valve seals ect and tend to cause a little smoke since the rings don't completely wipe it off like conventional oils. Also you did use the proper oil for wet clutch systems right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did put in a diffrent oil in but when it started smoking i changed it back to the same oil i have always used i did not drive it much the motor sound good. I just dont know why the oil pump up to the top of motor and take so long to run back down the bottom to get a good ready on the dip stick. After you shut it off the dip stick just has a drop of oil on the bottom you let it set for 5 min and it get a little more and about in 10 or 15 min it will be back to full.

Thanks vic
 

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Welcome to the forums. I agree with Moose.

I just dont know why the oil pump up to the top of motor and take so long to run back down the bottom to get a good ready on the dip stick.
That's pretty normal for a 350 Rancher, they use a dry sump oil management system.
 

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what does that mean? dry sump oil management system.
It means that it has a separate holding tank for the oil inside the crankcase, instead of the oil sitting in the main bottom of the crankcase like a wet sump system. A dry sump system usually has an external oil tank, but on this model, it's internal to the crankcase.


 

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my son has a 2004 trx250 te pulled out of crate since 2004 man it has had a rough life started smoking real bad so he is fixing to learn how to tear it down and fix it he is only 13 is there any thing specicfic i should look for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so then it is ok if you check the oil after running it and it just has a little bit on the dip stick? and then all the oil will run back down in the oil pan in a few mins?

thanks vic
 

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so then it is ok if you check the oil after running it and it just has a little bit on the dip stick? and then all the oil will run back down in the oil pan in a few mins?

thanks vic
When you change it, make sure you put 2.1 quarts in it and after you run it, just give it enough time to drain back down before you check it. All the ones that I've seen have been slow about draining back down like that.
 

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Not really a tech, but I've worked on ATVs since I was about 10 years old. I split my first case when I was about 14 years old. I've owned a lot of ATVs over the years and worked on them all and I've also worked on all my friends, and other people's ATVs. About the only thing I'm not familiar with is the Honda automatic transmissions and that's because I haven't owned any Honda automatics, so I haven't worked on any of those. I prefer the footshift in Honda ATVs, but I've worked on a few electric shift models. I've worked on a few sport models, but mostly utility models.
 

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They made ATVs back then? I thought they were called horse and carts? LMAO
 

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They made ATVs back then? I thought they were called horse and carts? LMAO
They may have been, it's been so long it's hard to remember. LMAO!!
 

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Man I was sure glad when the started putting springs on the carts...LMAO wooden wheels are a bitch on those dusty trails
 
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