[The cruise guy]

As you see I am new and trying to figure my way thru this wonderful site. I am an old duck hunter, and sometimes enjoy working on vehicles.
I recently picked up a fixer upper, a 250 Fourtrax, 1986 as my first quad. I have 2 items that need fixing very soon before duck hunting starts.
1. I adjusted the cables for rear brake and can't quite get enough friction when all the way adjusted. Assuming that there are no further adjustment options, it looks like I have to remove the axel and then the 6 small bolts that hold the drum to the backing plate? Does anyone know if this is the procedure and reverse for installation of new brake shoes??
2. While under there, I noticed a pretty good size crack on the steel crossover in the middle of the suspension frame between the rear axel and the front pivot point and drive shaft joint. Should I take the frame out? Does the plastic cap come off the rt. pivot joint with a screwdriver? Must be a nut underneath to undue that side? For the left side, i assume that you undue some type of universal joint to remove the whole frame section so that it can be taken out and turned over and around to weld. Or should I just have someone weld it without removing, while on a rack or elevated?
Appreciate any help from you guys. :blink:

 

[shadetree]

As you see I am new and trying to figure my way thru this wonderful site. I am an old duck hunter, and sometimes enjoy working on vehicles.
I recently picked up a fixer upper, a 250 Fourtrax, 1986 as my first quad. I have 2 items that need fixing very soon before duck hunting starts.
1. I adjusted the cables for rear brake and can't quite get enough friction when all the way adjusted. Assuming that there are no further adjustment options, it looks like I have to remove the axel and then the 6 small bolts that hold the drum to the backing plate? Does anyone know if this is the procedure and reverse for installation of new brake shoes??
2. While under there, I noticed a pretty good size crack on the steel crossover in the middle of the suspension frame between the rear axel and the front pivot point and drive shaft joint. Should I take the frame out? Does the plastic cap come off the rt. pivot joint with a screwdriver? Must be a nut underneath to undue that side? For the left side, i assume that you undue some type of universal joint to remove the whole frame section so that it can be taken out and turned over and around to weld. Or should I just have someone weld it without removing, while on a rack or elevated?
Appreciate any help from you guys. :blink:

welcome to the forums..needs new shoes..remove the right hub nut..remove the brake cover support metal cover..remove the brake drum cover..shoes are under this. loosen the brake cables..so you can make it easier to replace the shoes.the brake drum may be frozen on the axle.might take alittle prying and such to get it off the axle. as for your frame crack..no need to remove the swing arm..in order to fix it..weld it with the swing arm on it..'' tip '' unplug your c.d.i before you do any welding !!!!!.

 

[94300ex]

welcome to the forums. agreed^^^^^^ do what he said.

 

[Helmut]

As you see I am new and trying to figure my way thru this wonderful site. I am an old duck hunter, and sometimes enjoy working on vehicles.
I recently picked up a fixer upper, a 250 Fourtrax, 1986 as my first quad. I have 2 items that need fixing very soon before duck hunting starts.
1. I adjusted the cables for rear brake and can't quite get enough friction when all the way adjusted. Assuming that there are no further adjustment options, it looks like I have to remove the axel and then the 6 small bolts that hold the drum to the backing plate? Does anyone know if this is the procedure and reverse for installation of new brake shoes??
2. While under there, I noticed a pretty good size crack on the steel crossover in the middle of the suspension frame between the rear axel and the front pivot point and drive shaft joint. Should I take the frame out? Does the plastic cap come off the rt. pivot joint with a screwdriver? Must be a nut underneath to undue that side? For the left side, i assume that you undue some type of universal joint to remove the whole frame section so that it can be taken out and turned over and around to weld. Or should I just have someone weld it without removing, while on a rack or elevated?
Appreciate any help from you guys. :blink:

welcome to the forums..needs new shoes..remove the left hub nut..remove the brake cover support metal cover..remove the brake drum cover..shoes are under this. loosen the brake cables..so you can make it easier to replace the shoes.the brake drum may be frozen on the axle.might take alittle prying and such to get it off the axle. as for your frame crack..no need to remove the swing arm..in order to fix it..weld it with the swing arm on it..'' tip '' unplug your c.d.i before you do any welding !!!!!.

Welcome to the forums. To change brake shoes, you need to remove the right hub nut and hub, not the left.

 

[The cruise guy]

Thanks Shadetree, 94300X, and Helmut. I'll proceed tomorrow and get back if possible. Looks like a green light for me to proceed with rear brakes. Stand bye for future adventures as I have been working on this for 4-5 afternoons and lots accomplished I think but once I put the tank back on I'll know.
I'll need a battery 12-BS, spark plug, rear brakes. Also would like to rebuild the fuel petcock as the screen is bad and very slight drip. Does anyone recommend what parts to get and where to get them from as nearest ATV dealer is 25 miles away and I don't know if they are my best resource?? Thanks again.

 

[shadetree]

As you see I am new and trying to figure my way thru this wonderful site. I am an old duck hunter, and sometimes enjoy working on vehicles.
I recently picked up a fixer upper, a 250 Fourtrax, 1986 as my first quad. I have 2 items that need fixing very soon before duck hunting starts.
1. I adjusted the cables for rear brake and can't quite get enough friction when all the way adjusted. Assuming that there are no further adjustment options, it looks like I have to remove the axel and then the 6 small bolts that hold the drum to the backing plate? Does anyone know if this is the procedure and reverse for installation of new brake shoes??
2. While under there, I noticed a pretty good size crack on the steel crossover in the middle of the suspension frame between the rear axel and the front pivot point and drive shaft joint. Should I take the frame out? Does the plastic cap come off the rt. pivot joint with a screwdriver? Must be a nut underneath to undue that side? For the left side, i assume that you undue some type of universal joint to remove the whole frame section so that it can be taken out and turned over and around to weld. Or should I just have someone weld it without removing, while on a rack or elevated?
Appreciate any help from you guys. :blink:

welcome to the forums..needs new shoes..remove the left hub nut..remove the brake cover support metal cover..remove the brake drum cover..shoes are under this. loosen the brake cables..so you can make it easier to replace the shoes.the brake drum may be frozen on the axle.might take alittle prying and such to get it off the axle. as for your frame crack..no need to remove the swing arm..in order to fix it..weld it with the swing arm on it..'' tip '' unplug your c.d.i before you do any welding !!!!!.

Welcome to the forums. To change brake shoes, you need to remove the right hub nut and hub, not the left.

fixed it..lol..wasn't paying attention on the write up on the hub side..lol.

 

[shadetree]

Thanks Shadetree, 94300X, and Helmut. I'll proceed tomorrow and get back if possible. Looks like a green light for me to proceed with rear brakes. Stand bye for future adventures as I have been working on this for 4-5 afternoons and lots accomplished I think but once I put the tank back on I'll know.
I'll need a battery 12-BS, spark plug, rear brakes. Also would like to rebuild the fuel petcock as the screen is bad and very slight drip. Does anyone recommend what parts to get and where to get them from as nearest ATV dealer is 25 miles away and I don't know if they are my best resource?? Thanks again.

order parts from bikebandit.com

 

[The cruise guy]

OK Still need Help. Recap of the rear brake so far. I was able to remove the axel nut and sucessfully take off the metal brake cover support. But I can't get the drum off! It seems that it may be frozen to the splined shaft or something. I sprayed everything with w-d40 and tapped on everything. Did spray and tap both inside of the drum at the hub and outside with hammar including the axel shaft. I cleaned the shaft and squirted again and again plus inside shaft area. So I got out the wheel puller and tightened it up as tight as I dare so I don't break the drum then more tapping. Gave up and having lunch for now. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or how to resolve it. This ATV belonged to a duck hunter and was usually in lots of muddy areas. My next step is to bring out the acetylene torch and heat the splined shaft to drum area and tap more with puller in place pulling. I think the OEM drums cost $182 @ bikebandit.com

 

[shadetree]

OK Still need Help. Recap of the rear brake so far. I was able to remove the axel nut and sucessfully take off the metal brake cover support. But I can't get the drum off! It seems that it may be frozen to the splined shaft or something. I sprayed everything with w-d40 and tapped on everything. Did spray and tap both inside of the drum at the hub and outside with hammar including the axel shaft. I cleaned the shaft and squirted again and again plus inside shaft area. So I got out the wheel puller and tightened it up as tight as I dare so I don't break the drum then more tapping. Gave up and having lunch for now. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or how to resolve it. This ATV belonged to a duck hunter and was usually in lots of muddy areas. My next step is to bring out the acetylene torch and heat the splined shaft to drum area and tap more with puller in place pulling. I think the OEM drums cost $182 @ bikebandit.com

they can sieze on the backing plate..try spraying some wd-40 all around the outter edge of the brake cover..then with a screw driver ( find the tabs )..try tapping at these to knock it back off the backing plate lip..just go easy on it..sooner or later it will come off..enough for you to get a screw drivers tip under it to pry it off...also make sure you removed all of the bolts..some times a broken one can be still holding it on !

 

[Helmut]

OK Still need Help. Recap of the rear brake so far. I was able to remove the axel nut and sucessfully take off the metal brake cover support. But I can't get the drum off! It seems that it may be frozen to the splined shaft or something. I sprayed everything with w-d40 and tapped on everything. Did spray and tap both inside of the drum at the hub and outside with hammar including the axel shaft. I cleaned the shaft and squirted again and again plus inside shaft area. So I got out the wheel puller and tightened it up as tight as I dare so I don't break the drum then more tapping. Gave up and having lunch for now. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or how to resolve it. This ATV belonged to a duck hunter and was usually in lots of muddy areas. My next step is to bring out the acetylene torch and heat the splined shaft to drum area and tap more with puller in place pulling. I think the OEM drums cost $182 @ bikebandit.com

they can sieze on the backing plate..try spraying some wd-40 all around the outter edge of the brake cover..then with a screw driver ( find the tabs )..try tapping at these to knock it back off the backing plate lip..just go easy on it..sooner or later it will come off..enough for you to get a screw drivers tip under it to pry it off...also make sure you removed all of the bolts..some times a broken one can be still holding it on !

I believe he already has the drum cover off, it's the brake drum that's stuck.

Does the drum move forward at all when you pry on it? If it does try sticking a screwdriver through the holes and knocking the brake shoes back, while prying forward on the drum. Be careful not to break the aluminum backing plate.

 

[Helmut]

Oh, and don't forget to remove the o-ring from between the axle and brake drum, first.

 

[shadetree]

OK Still need Help. Recap of the rear brake so far. I was able to remove the axel nut and sucessfully take off the metal brake cover support. But I can't get the drum off! It seems that it may be frozen to the splined shaft or something. I sprayed everything with w-d40 and tapped on everything. Did spray and tap both inside of the drum at the hub and outside with hammar including the axel shaft. I cleaned the shaft and squirted again and again plus inside shaft area. So I got out the wheel puller and tightened it up as tight as I dare so I don't break the drum then more tapping. Gave up and having lunch for now. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or how to resolve it. This ATV belonged to a duck hunter and was usually in lots of muddy areas. My next step is to bring out the acetylene torch and heat the splined shaft to drum area and tap more with puller in place pulling. I think the OEM drums cost $182 @ bikebandit.com

they can sieze on the backing plate..try spraying some wd-40 all around the outter edge of the brake cover..then with a screw driver ( find the tabs )..try tapping at these to knock it back off the backing plate lip..just go easy on it..sooner or later it will come off..enough for you to get a screw drivers tip under it to pry it off...also make sure you removed all of the bolts..some times a broken one can be still holding it on !

I believe he already has the drum cover off, it's the brake drum that's stuck.

Does the drum move forward at all when you pry on it? If it does try sticking a screwdriver through the holes and knocking the brake shoes back, while prying forward on the drum. Be careful not to break the aluminum backing plate.

i just re-read his post..he went from metal cover thing..then said he can't get the drum off..he never mentioned anything about the brake drum cover ???.

 

[shadetree]

this is a trx250 helmut..wake up bro..it's not a 300 !..lmfao.

 

[Helmut]

this is a trx250 helmut..wake up bro..it's not a 300 !..lmfao.

Yeah, I was thinking Fourtrax 300 for some reason. LOL.

 

[shadetree]

this is a trx250 helmut..wake up bro..it's not a 300 !..lmfao.

Yeah, I was thinking Fourtrax 300 for some reason. LOL.

lol bro..we all have them days..lol..at first you were on track..then when you said brake cover..i was like..wth..trx250's don't have metal brake drum covers !..lmfao.

 

[Helmut]

this is a trx250 helmut..wake up bro..it's not a 300 !..lmfao.

Yeah, I was thinking Fourtrax 300 for some reason. LOL.

lol bro..we all have them days..lol..at first you were on track..then when you said brake cover..i was like..wth..trx250's don't have metal brake drum covers !..lmfao.

Yeah, I guess I need to quit trying to watch TV while I'm reading. LOL.

 

[The cruise guy]

Thanks Helmut, but nothing moves, no matter what you pry or tap on. It is like the axel shaft is frozen to the drum shaft spline. I just came in after putting the acetylene torch to it. It still didn't budge. Afraid to heat the shaft too hot as there must be a seal behind the backing plate that might melt. But continued the heat pretty darn hot without turning the metal red. I repositioned the wheel puller to three different locations through the holes, and even tried prying on the drum away from the backing plate in several locations with wheel puller still pulling. Usually with this amount of effort I expect results, but then this atv was probably a mudder from birth. All I can say is that maybe after sitting, I can try again tomorrow unless someone has a better plan for tonight??

 

[shadetree]

Thanks Helmut, but nothing moves, no matter what you pry or tap on. It is like the axel shaft is frozen to the drum shaft spline. I just came in after putting the acetylene torch to it. It still didn't budge. Afraid to heat the shaft too hot as there must be a seal behind the backing plate that might melt. But continued the heat pretty darn hot without turning the metal red. I repositioned the wheel puller to three different locations through the holes, and even tried prying on the drum away from the backing plate in several locations with wheel puller still pulling. Usually with this amount of effort I expect results, but then this atv was probably a mudder from birth. All I can say is that maybe after sitting, I can try again tomorrow unless someone has a better plan for tonight??

as a last resort..unbolt the 4 bolts that are holding the backing plate to the frame tube..slide the axle out the right side..if your brake drum is siezed on the axle..it will slide off with the axle when you pull all of it out the right side..then you can get a better idea on what you have to deal with...just be warned..there is a tappered washer on the far left side of the differental that goes back on the axle after you slide it back through the differental..which means..you will need to pull the left side tube off the differental to put the tappered washer spacer back on the end of that side of the axle..and it faces only on way..the tappered part should slide on first..( high side out )..and you may..or may not have one of these..you wont know for sure until you pull the axle ..and look inside the left tube..if you have one ..it will be laying in the tube..make sure you put it back on like i said...slide the tubbing back on..bolt it back up..that tappered washer spacer rides against the inside of the tube bearing..very important that you have it in right..that's to say..if you have it in it ??..lol. keep us posted !

 

[The cruise guy]

About the brake removal, I thought I should explain; The schematic calls the brake cover the part that covers the drum. Thanks to Shadetrees thread I did pry it off like he said right at the beginning. Then the drum that has a splined hole in it is the part that won't come off. It appears that the axel shaft spline is frozen to it. Today I went out and tried to pound it back on tighter in hopes it would jar it free. Then I put the puller on it again to remove it and wrenched it as tight as I could before the opposite wheel started spinning while sitting on the ground. Then I took the hammer to the wrench to tighten the puller further. No luck. Now if you have seen any weather reports in California where I am, you may notice that every day for 4 days it has been triple digit temperatures. Yes, I am the dummy out in it working. If you saw me you would laugh as I have a patio umbrella stuck in the frame where the seat and air cleaner box used to be, plus I am working in the shade of a fence.
I loved Shadetree's "Last Resort" option. Wow, I think I'll wait to try that as there is no traffic on the ranch where I duck hunt and no traffic on the levy where I need to go to my duck blind. It is 1 1/2 miles to the blind so I doubt if it is worth the risk of pulling axel out at this point until I find out if this ATV is going to perform well and is worth it for me. It seems that the front brakes work good so far and should get me by. But I saved information for later so that I can try that procedure if necessary. Thank You. For now I have to finish cleaning the tank (soaking in kerosene for 4 days) then mount it to see how this atv will run in the gears as I have only run it with a carb bowel full of gas at fast idle so far. Thanks guys

 

[The cruise guy]

Regarding:"I noticed a pretty good size crack on the steel crossover in the middle of the suspension frame between the rear axel and the front pivot point and drive shaft joint".
For those interested in results to frame cracked; I took off rear fender to replace it so it was a good time to call around to see who would have time to weld the frame for me. But first I got under there and took a dremel tool to grind the cracks to clean them to help the weld. Then I put atv on my truck to take to the guy that had a muffler shop and did mechanicing. He was a little busy when I pulled in so I unloaded the atv and asked him where he wanted it. Then I took off the rear wheels while I was waiting, by borrowing his floor jack. I had it high in the air with jack stands so he could crawl under there and see everything and reach everything. There was at least 6-8 inches of welding needed of which he did in 10-12 minutes and charged me $20. A win/win situation except for the 1 hour wait for him to get to me. He used a wire feed welder of which I don't have much experience with but it seems to be holding after 2 years.
Well, I never got back to the brake job as it was beyond what I could do without a lot of time. And the front brakes work well. Plus I only ride on level rice country dirt/mud levies and don't need to stop much. But will try another approach next year and see what happens after duck season is over this fall.