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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all, thanks for being here guys. I've had an atc 110 3 wheeler before and finally bought something nicer but...

2001 TRX 350 ES 4x4
Looks like electrical has seen water without cap on fuse box, I've tested the circuits and everything looks good now, electrical didn't work when I got it but everything works now, switches lights starter etc.

I cleaned the carb, adjusted the valve gap replaced the spark plug (it was toast) and now I have been trying to start it for two days.

It gets spark, it gets fuel, every once in a while it will backfire. that's it. I've found there is no timing on it I also found that there is a diode missing and have ordered it, the diode goes in the fuse box, will it need that to run at all?
I also oredered a new seat for it. It is a project for me. I have the Clymer manual and even talked to a mechanic at the honda shop.. I can't find further troubleshooting steps. mechanic said may be something with the carb still.



Please tell me I do not have to check the cam.
 

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Welcome to the forums. I'm not sure if it will run without the diode or not, but if it's firing and getting gas, then I don't see why it wouldn't.

If you're getting a good, bright blue spark and you're getting gas to the cylinder, then it could be out of time. I would take the spark plug out and pour just a little gas down into the spark plug hole and then, quickly, put the spark plug back in before the gas evaporates. Now, with the key on, try to start it. It should start and run for a second or two. If it does, then the problem is the carb is stopped up or the rubber intake boot could have a leak in it. If it don't start for a second or two and it's getting a good spark, then I would check the timing and the valve clearance.

BTW, the timing chain and cam is behind the flywheel cover on the 350 Rancher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick response, the 01 trx 350 is supposed to use some sort of capacitor discharge that is automatically timed, I suppose it discharges at the moment it is full. it does seem to be sparking twice as much as I would assume it should. when I pull it out and watch the spark it seems to be sparking more like a 2 stroke. not sure if that has anything to do with it or if it is my imagination. I did already check valve clearance and adjusted it a bit it was pretty wide before I tightened it, yet it's still the same. I dumped gas down and it seems to crank faster just on the edge of firing and then when gas is used it slows back down, never seeming to pop off though just turning over. If the last thing you can think of is cam, Is there a simple way of checking the alignment without tearing it down much?
 

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When I said to check the timing, I meant the mechanical timing of the valves, not the ignition timing. You have to take flywheel cover off the back of the engine to check the timing. If you have compression and if you have a good spark at the spark plug and if it's in time and if the valves are adjusted right, then it should have started for a second or two when you poured gas down the spark plug hole. Here is the procedures for setting the time. Check yours and make sure the marks are lined up like it says. If they aren't, then it's out of time. You might want to wait and get a diode before you tear into the engine, just in case. A diode lets power flow in one direction only and if it's missing then power can't flow in either direction, but I'm not sure what they use the diode for. It must not be anything to do with the ignition or it wouldn't be sparking at the plug.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ya about the diode, that's what I was getting at, it's sparking etc... why can't it just be a carb issue lol.
:r_c:

ok, so I've heard about this cam thing not requiring taking the top of the motor off or something... I have those pictures in front of me in the clymer manual, but I don't see anything about where to start, they show the cover removed. do i need to remove anything else first?

And do the cams really effect this so much? you said if you dump gas in it should work anyways right? at least a little yet it isn't so could that mean it isn't the cams..
 

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Ya about the diode, that's what I was getting at, it's sparking etc... why can't it just be a carb issue lol.
:r_c:

ok, so I've heard about this cam thing not requiring taking the top of the motor off or something... I have those pictures in front of me in the clymer manual, but I don't see anything about where to start, they show the cover removed. do i need to remove anything else first?

And do the cams really effect this so much? you said if you dump gas in it should work anyways right? at least a little yet it isn't so could that mean it isn't the cams..
You have to take the pull rope assembly off first and then the bolt in the end of the crank and the piece it holds on. Then you just unbolt the cover.

If the cam was in time and you have a good, bright blue spark and you have compression(good piston and rings), then it should have started for a second or two when you poured the gas in the spark plug hole. If the cam isn't in time, then you won't have compression. The air/fuel mixture won't compress and it will just go out the exhaust or back through the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks again, I will probably wait on the diode, not knowing much of the history I'm trying to find if parts were taken off/swapped to the wrong places. I can't find a fuel line diagram that shows where all the hoses go on the carb, I have fuel in, and a line crossover that loops over the top but there are still two more holes, figured I'd check into the rest of it until I have to tear the motor down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys, I'll update once I get the diode and try it, I rebuilt the car one more time found 1 o ring missing, no auto parts carry that small, going to lawnmower shop on monday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks again Helmut, After looking through the manual you sent me (clymer sux for this purpose) I found the diode purpose not that it is mentioned what it does say is that it is in the starter section. After pondering more on that I figured the starter in these is also an alternator so the diode is used to allow the battery to charge when the starter loop is off. It stays geared to it like an alternator minus the belt of which is a new concept to me. Alternators have a diode built onto them and this one just happens to be in the fuse box. Thanks again Helmut but this means it must be the cam timing.


:mellow:


:icon_cussing:

Damnit.
 

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Thanks again Helmut, After looking through the manual you sent me (clymer sux for this purpose) I found the diode purpose not that it is mentioned what it does say is that it is in the starter section. After pondering more on that I figured the starter in these is also an alternator so the diode is used to allow the battery to charge when the starter loop is off. It stays geared to it like an alternator minus the belt of which is a new concept to me. Alternators have a diode built onto them and this one just happens to be in the fuse box. Thanks again Helmut but this means it must be the cam timing.


:mellow:


:icon_cussing:

Damnit.
The stator is the alternator. Well actually, the stator is a generator, because the rectifier is located outside of the generator on the frame. In order for it to be called an alternator, the rectifier has to be built into it to rectify the AC to DC. But yeah, the alternator is in the starter clutch section.

The stator is in the side cover that you will need to take off to check the cam timing. It's located on the back of the engine under the pull rope assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yes, that's what I meant. I had an old ct-70 (79) old bugger but a blast regardless.
I was wondering about a manual for an older TRX250 my friend is going out with me with his (which I bought for 300 in good condition) do you guys have a link for that? I'm going into the cam this weekend starting tonight to get a head start, this time I'm ready for it ;)
 

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yes, that's what I meant. I had an old ct-70 (79) old bugger but a blast regardless.
I was wondering about a manual for an older TRX250 my friend is going out with me with his (which I bought for 300 in good condition) do you guys have a link for that? I'm going into the cam this weekend starting tonight to get a head start, this time I'm ready for it ;)
I don't know of any links for a free download of the TRX250 repair manual, but if you find one let me know, because I would like to have one, too.

If you want to buy one, Tradebit has them for $5.

Honda FourTrax 250 TRX250 service manual repair 1985-1987 - Download Technical
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the heads up, also I'm trying to remove the stator cover the driven pulley that the pull-start turns, has a big bolt in it before you can remove the cover, that sucker is on tight, please tell me it is CCW to remove it lol
:blush:

I'm bending the pully the way they say to remove it is jam a screwdriver outside two catches to hold it in place. I sprayed some PB on it hoping that will help
 

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It is CCW to loosen it, and yeah they are tight. I think I used a impact wrench to get it off. Hope this helps.
I agree. It's CCW to loosen. I use an impact wrench to remove them, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The impact I had didn't cut it, cheap harbour freight 230 ft-lb, exchanged for the earthquake 630 ft-lb, came out instantly lol, sad. ok, I figured I have to remove the motor since the third layer in isn't moving, I only pulled the pull rope cover and the bolt under it so far, I have all motor mounts out, and electrical disconnected. it doesn't seem to want to move much. Do I have to pull the head? ffs this is rediculous
 

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No, you don't have to remove the head to get the engine out. Did you remove the mount that bolts to the head and did you remove the exhaust?

Also, did you remove the clamps from the rubber boot where the U-joint and driveshaft are?

Try moving it forward or rocking back and forth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes, I removed the exhaust, the carb, and removed the motor side of the boots, seems like the driveshafts are holding it down, what is the best way to pull it out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sorry I was making dinner, Just got the stuff from the grocery store. The milk I bought was 6 days old, I didn't notice it until I chugged a 1/4 of it

*Pulls a Jack Bauer* DAMNIT!!! :icon_cussing: GROSS.

Returned a bit angry and got fresh-er milk lol.

I got some time now
(you got a phone number?) :icon_ poke:
 
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